What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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kbuskill

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Ok... I wasn't gonna chime in on this but here I go... lol

When I first purchased my Burb with around 154K miles on it, I checked the oil level religiously for the first few oil changes to see if there were any problems.

Once I developed a good understanding of what I could reasonably expect I stopped checking it so frequently.

I know that, in my case at least, I can go for 7,500 miles or more before she is a quart low on oil... about half way through my service interval of around 13-15K miles.

Granted my filter system is not the normal, as I have the dual remote mount filter setup with big over sized filters plus the external oil cooler so my truck holds 9 quarts total and around 8 quarts at an oil change... but my oil sample report from Blackstone was good.

Now with that being said... I have never had the low oil level light come on so I can't say how low the oil level might actually be when the light comes on.

What I do know is that if the oil level doesn't show up between the hash marks and holes on the stick you are a quart low... if it's not showing on the stick at all you are probably closer to 2 quarts low.

My biggest concern with your method of "checking your oil level" is... what happens when the oil level sensor malfunctions for what ever reason???

You could potentially do great damage to your engine without ever getting a warning... granted the odds may be slim that this scenario would ever happen BUT it is a possibility.

I guess what I'm saying is that technology is a great thing, until it malfunctions. It's just hard to beat simplicity and a dipstick is about as simple, and reliable, as it gets.

Ultimately, it's your boat... what ever floats it.

As I said earlier, I DO NOT check my oil every time I fill my tank but I do check it from time to time. I also keep an eye on the ground for spots and an eye on the back of the truck for oil.
 

Rocket Man

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Hey Phil why don’t you start a new thread and have an entire discussion on checking your dipstick because I’m real tired of this topic and I still want to subscribe to this thread. Let it go or start a new thread please? I’m trying to ask in a respectful manner. I’m sure Im not the only one who wants this to be over.
 

HiHoeSilver

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See, info like this is more of why I am here and we are all here. To learn. So it being two qts low caused that much more wear? The numbers I assume you mean what metals where found in the oil and how much? If that's the case, then this is more info that I need to read/hear. This is viable info imo. What's safe and not safe is hard to prove without some sort of ability to measure. Your oil analysis gives this ability. I doubt going over your 5k rule is what did it, more of it being low. If it was full and you went 6k, I wonder if it would be the same. Well, I know you won't be testing that theory .. hahaha



Again, relax. I'll start checking the dipstick and you can keep calling me one. Thank you for giving me viable Info to prove me wrong.

Totally relaxed over here, bruh. And I didn't call you anything but your name! Take it easy. Lol.

My biggest thing about you checking the stick is that it's the only way you're gonna know how much oil you've really got in there. Regardless of the consideration by GM of when the light comes on, we can all agree the engine is designed to have 6 qts, and I don't think it's over the top to say you should do your best to keep that much in it. Hence, the dipstick.

You are correct. The amounts of aluminum (pistons), iron (all steel parts), and lead (bearings) found in the oil.

I have to think it was the low level that caused the extra wear, yes. How much wear, really? I don't know. Permanent damage? Not sure.
The analysis shows the integrity of the oil to be right in line based on characteristics, although I did not do a TBN.

Okay, fine. I'm done now. Lol.
 
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Doubeleive

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There ya go. Progress lol.
I also popped the hood and looked under it with a flashlight, another guy was having some trouble replacing a impact sensor on a 2010+ I guess after 2010 they changed the sensor from a 10mm bolt to a hex bolt that slides into a slot and there are no youtube video's or instructions on how to change them, although the procedure is still the same you can apparently loosen the hex bolt from the top or bottom, location is the same, just looks a little tricky I guess to anyone that hasn't done one before.
 

the_tool_man

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<peeks head over wall to see if pointless oil dipstick discussion is over>

I just got back from a weekend visit to Savannah, GA with my wife and another couple. The 500 mile round trip was punctuated by several encounters with very heavy rainfall and high winds. And there were the inevitable panic stops from 80mph to 20mph as other drivers slowed to stare at someone broken down on the side of I-95.

Through it all, the Yukon was sure-footed and comfortable. Even with worn tires, the AWD and stability control gave me confidence. I never lacked enough power to negotiate through traffic. And I wasn't as tired upon arrival as I would have been driving my wife's Camry, or the Expedition I used to drive. All-in-all, it reaffirmed my choice to buy the Yukon as a general purpose mile-eater.

I did check the oil level before departure, just to make sure. It was fine.

Tonight, since my driver side rear door doesn't have a dip stick, I'll just pull the drain plug and let all the water out. I'm sure a bunch is in there from all that rain.
 

trailblazer

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Decided to replace the front sway bar links and bar bushings. Both links were broken! This was a surprise and explained the heavy roll I was experiencing.

Broke a motherf*****g bolt. Wow did that eat up a good three hours of my day off. Busted three drill bits and one M10x1.5 tap. Thankfully I have more taps. I ended up blowing the broken tap out of the hole using my Victor Oxy-Acetylene Porta Torch. Tomorrow I’ll install a new M10 bolt (that I still need to buy at the store) and do the rear sway bar links and bushings.

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**EDIT** Added photo of the new stabilizer bar bushing bolt. M10x1.5 thread and it is a grade 12.9 M8 socket bolt that is 45mm long ($1.23 at my Auto Value):

View attachment 221149


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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