What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[wendal]

have you tried a flexible shaft socket driver? they look like a wound up spring and bend in any direction, there not good for torquing anything down but are great for getting bolts started in impossible places, or a milwuakee cordless ratchet?

I've got the spring extension. I tried it once, but it kept moving. unfortunately there's a lot between me and the hole. I'm 5'7" on a good day with the lighting just right, and I'm a big boy. Short arms + gut = can't reach. I've got a couple of tall friends I'm going to call to see if they can reach from the top. I'm just tired and want my truck back on the road. Luckily I have a third car, but of course, that's not the point...

Oh, and I've got a pneumatic ratchet that I've been using. problem there is that the head of the ratchet won't fit down in the space. Also, I'm scared that starting the bolt with a powered ratchet will cross thread...

 

[CHOO CHOO]

Use thicker oil, take it easy on the old girl, and pray. And most important, TELL YOU YOU LOVE HER. EVERY DAY.

And a catch can helps too.

I vote towards replacement engine. Perhaps a running lowish mileage used one? And keep the old one to slowly rebuild and then swap back?

and yes compression test from another shop, and ask for the numbers. On my 1st engine at 226k when the lifter let go I was between 200psi on the highest and ~150ish on the lowest.

Sorry Phil; get another opinion or do the compression test yourself. Something doesn't seem right.

Talked to the owner this morning (that I've known for over a decade) he said cylinder 1 was at 55% compression, the others were normal. He said I shouldn't worry too much, but look at it like an early warning to start saving or looking. Said I could have a year or he has seen them last on low compression for over 10 years.

I need to find another shop that I can trust though.

On the thicker oil, should I? What should I use?

I figured I'll replace the spark plugs every year, what's it gonna hurt besides losing a few doll hairs.

I don't really get on it that much, I drive 7 miles to work everyday so I only put at most 14 miles a day on it.

I do need to get the cluster lights working though. I never got it fixed. Just the light that shows the odometer and PRND123 went out. Everything else works fine. Said it won't pass inspection because they need the mileage....lol.

 

[kbuskill]

Do you happen to know the part # for the shorter bolts by chance?

They came in a bag that said Kooks-106

(10) 8mm- 1.25 x 25mm

2014 Corvette C7

Stage 8 part number is 8900

The longer bolts are 8900B and they are 30mm long.

 

[89Suburban]

Well, I've been trying to get my shorties installed since last Friday, and I have learned 1 thing. I am too old and out of shape to be crawling on my back on a concrete floor, on my knees for long stretches, and doing things that require I remove pieces from the engine.

I finally got the damned original manifolds of Monday evening. It is Thursday, and I finally got the drivers side header on, only to find that my stage 8 bolts are apparently TO LONG.

@kbuskill, did you have to use washers with your stage 8 bolts?

I added washers, and they still seem too long. I can't get the headers snug to the block. I am open to suggestions...

Problem number 2 is that the passenger side rear bolt is KICKING MY ASS. I cannot get that bolt started to save my life. Ivm too short to reach it from the top, and the space is too small to get my hand in there from the bottom. Frustration does not even begin to describe what I am feeling. Suggestions are welcome here as well.

One thing for sure. I will Not be doing anything else myself that needs a lift. Especially since I don't have one.



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Yo bud do you still have the inner fender out? Can you get me some real good shots of the firewall behind the pass tire showing the heater and AC lines running to the back?

 

[wendal]

Yo bud do you still have the inner fender out? Can you get me some real good shots of the firewall behind the pass tire showing the heater and AC lines running to the back?

Will do.

 

[89Suburban]

Will do.

You da man!

 

[gooffeyguy]

I just found the part number, and I have the shorter bolts... The OEM manifold is thicker than that Gibson header, but it doesn't look like that much... I'm going to try putting the bolts that shipped with the headers in, I think...

What gasket are you using? Some are thicker than others

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[wendal]

What gasket are you using? Some are thicker than others

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

The standard Fel Pro. I've read enough here to know to get those.

 

[wendal]

@89Suburban, here you go.

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[iamdub]

Well......they replaced a spark plug, said that all of the cylinders are losing compression. One is about 50% of what it should be.

So.....besides saving money, what are my options.

I can either

1: drop another engine in it and just keep it as a daily
2: buy a beater/daily driver and slowly work on the Tahoe
3: trade in and buy a new vehicle

I'm wanna keep this and run it into the ground, so it can become my learning vehicle and I can start doing what I want when I get something else.

Trade in value at excellent condition is $4500 on Edmunds for my area. Private is $4800-5000

Its not near excellent condition at all.

I'm just kinda torn, the new suburban was nice and not having to worry about anything going wrong would be a great peace of mind, but at the cost of a hefty payment which would put me at almost paycheck to paycheck, and I don't want that at all.

Engines are plentiful and therefore relatively cheap. Source you one and reseal it and maybe even AFM delete it while it's out. The LS platform is easy to work on once you know a few key points so it makes a great "learner". Being intimately knowledgeable of the engine will be really handy for any future servicing. Consider yourself fortunate to have a decent head notice instead of suddenly having a blown motor and in a bind to jump on the first replacement you come across.

Did they specify why would it be losing compression? Maybe the valves are just cruddy and not sealing so set of refurb'ed heads would fix it. Like the others said- get a second or third opinion.