What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[swathdiver]

they don't have it, gas buddy is a lie-r lol, flying j doesn't have it that's why there is no price shown, however a fresh search shows there is a price of $2.75 at a kwik serv in Lodi and the next closest one is in Sac for $2.79, I might have to take a run up to Lodi just to try out a tank if they in fact have it.

Well, prices drop off after 24 hours so if no one posts at a particular station for two days it will go blank. Very often, people will post for regular gas but not ethanol or high test or diesel. In addition, GB takes about a year to update a station that no longer carries it or to add a new one or change a station that goes from Chevron to Shell for example.

If the local politicians figure out a way to profit from it, then you'd see its availability increase. It came our way via government grants signed into law more than four years ago and renewed more recently. They basically paid for the installation of blender pumps and turned some stations into boutique gas stations, offering only 87, 88 and E85. Two around here offer E30, there are seven in the county that offer E85 and some of those now offer Unleaded 88 which is also known as E15.

A tank of top tier 93 octane is about $80 right now. If I mix E85 and E15 I get the same octane rating for $60 a tank. That's real money and adds up quick.

 

[Doubeleive]

Well, prices drop off after 24 hours so if no one posts at a particular station for two days it will go blank. Very often, people will post for regular gas but not ethanol or high test or diesel. In addition, GB takes about a year to update a station that no longer carries it or to add a new one or change a station that goes from Chevron to Shell for example.

If the local politicians figure out a way to profit from it, then you'd see its availability increase. It came our way via government grants signed into law more than four years ago and renewed more recently. They basically paid for the installation of blender pumps and turned some stations into boutique gas stations, offering only 87, 88 and E85. Two around here offer E30, there are seven in the county that offer E85 and some of those now offer Unleaded 88 which is also known as E15.

A tank of top tier 93 octane is about $80 right now. If I mix E85 and E15 I get the same octane rating for $60 a tank. That's real money and adds up quick.

ya gas buddy has always shown flying j as having it but they don't the station is at the next exit from me about a mile away

 

[iamdub]

Ok, I'm about to start collecting parts to tear down the Yukon. What has been suggested so far for my LY6 6.0L

Keep my current heads in lieu of LS3 heads as they are Cast #823 heads, LOL.
Clean up heads and install new valve guide seals if needed.
Replace lifters with LS7 Lifters and tray
New push rods
LS9 Head Gaskets (Was told best factory gasket available for a NA Gen IV LS)
APR Head Bolt kit
Replace Valve-cover, Intake and Valley Pan Gaskets
New Plugs, Thermostat and Dex-Cool Coolant

Anything I am missing?

She only has 115K miles with 5k semi-synthetic OCI's

I didn't want to budget build this, but funds are low at the moment

I was wondering why you were ordering the LS3 heads, but figured you just had the money and wanted to have brand new heads. Or maybe you suspected a head was cracked and it wasn't a failed head gasket at fault.


If you won't be adding forced induction later:

I'd have the current heads cleaned and refreshed while they're off, maybe with a cleaning pass at most on the surface. At 115K miles, they really shouldn't need much of anything other than cleaning. Valve seals are cheap insurance and now's the time to replace them.

Thicker push rods are cheap insurance if you rev your engine out often.

LS9 gaskets- sure, why not?

Stock TTY head bolts are fine and I'd recommend the Summit-branded ones since they're re-packaged OEM ones for cheaper. ARPs in this application would be more for the convenience of torquing with a torque wrench rather than an angle gauge. To me, the cost isn't worth it.

Definitely replace the valley cover, IM, exhaust manifold and valve cover gaskets. The GM MLS exhaust gaskets are great. Avoid the "cardboard" ones.

If the spark plugs are original, they may as well be replaced since you'll have such easy access. Stock replacement is fine- ACDelco or NGK are my favs. Watch for counterfeit plugs on Amazon and ebay. If the price is too good to be true, it very well may be.

Be careful when ordering OEM LS7 lifters. There are a lot of knock-offs and a few horror stories to go with them. Do your research. Since the strike at GM, lots of OEM parts became scarce and expensive for what was available.

Don't forget new exhaust manifold bolts. I've only had experience with the Dorman kit and never had a problem. Don't forget the anti-sieze!

Personally, I wouldn't worry with the water pump unless it's weeping. I've seen plenty of 150K-200K mile original pumps. It only takes and hour and a basic metric socket set to replace it. But if it's in your budget and you'd feel safer, replace it while you're under the hood.

I don't know if your engine would have the screen under the oil pressure sensor, but now would be a great time to check and clean or replace it if you have it. You may as well replace the oil pressure sensor (I highly recommend ACDelco here) since the cost would seem negligible if you needed to change it later with the IM in place.

 

[iamdub]

My oil filter arrived from Amazon today! PF63e from AC Delco. Will be changing oil and emptying catch can tomorrow. I thiiiink I will be fiddling with tire pressure limits in the tune, and adding 5 pounds of air in each tire. Hope to get some better fuel economy. Anybody know how to take the crossbars off the roof rack?

Eeew. E-core filter FTL.

FWIW, they did improve the design more recently. But, you wouldn't know if you're getting the new one when ordering it. Personally, I'd stick to the known tried-and-true filters. The extra $3 spent every 5,000 miles is absolutely worth the lower risk of circulating unfiltered oil.

 

[mikeyss]

Until recently, I didn't know the pf48E was a junk filter compared to the pf48. I went to the upf48 and cold starts are less noisy and my oil pressure is higher at idle, and stays around 38-42 at cruising speed. I swear my VVT is also working better too, but I don't have any official proof, unless my butt-meter counts? Haha

 

[89Suburban]

Definitely replace the valley cover, IM, gaskets...


I don't know if your engine would have the screen under the oil pressure sensor, but now would be a great time to check and clean or replace it if you have it. You may as well replace the oil pressure sensor (I highly recommend ACDelco here) since the cost would seem negligible if you needed to change it later with the IM in place.

I think this is my next big project. I got an oil change and he told me that valley cover gasket most likely is shot and needs replaced. Have you done this? Hard to find videos for the 2007 year.

 

[wjburken]

I think this is my next big project. I got an oil change and he told me that valley cover gasket most likely is shot and needs replaced. Have you done this? Hard to find videos for the 2007 year.

Here’s a video on a 2008 6.0L but should be similar. Gets to the valley cover around 11:15.

 

[992dr]

Replaced my drivers rear window regulator finally (those door panels can be a pain to out back on) and passenger rear window deflector. Sucker came flying out outta nowhere. WeatherTech replaced it though, great customer service.

 

[iamdub]

I think this is my next big project. I got an oil change and he told me that valley cover gasket most likely is shot and needs replaced. Have you done this? Hard to find videos for the 2007 year.

I've torn these engines down and reassembled many times. I'll be pulling mine out and tearing it down to the shortblock very soon to replace the cam and lifters (AFM delete), all seals and gaskets, etc.

Valley cover gasket would be super easy and a half day job taking your time. I'd make it a full day job with all the extra studying and cleaning I'd be doing, particularly with the intake manifold. Having a "dry" intake manifold makes these things so easy to work on.


I don't know what your timeframe is looking like, but if I do mine before you do yours and if time allows, I'll try to remember to take pics of the process. I don't see myself being in a rush since I'm now planning on having my heads lightly worked over. That alone makes it a multi-week process instead of a one-weekender.


The basics off the top of my head:

Remove the beauty cover

Relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the lines

Remove the intake tube from the TB

Unplug the TB, all injectors and all sensors. The injector clips are about the hardest part of the whole process )

Loosen the IM bolts (they're captured so just loosen 'til they can be pulled up)

Remove the IM

Plug intake ports in heads with shop towels or painter's tape

Clean off valley cover

Remove valley cover bolts

Remove valley cover


I'd inspect the IM for oil in the back of it and thoroughly clean the TB and insides of the IM, including the runners with a baby bottle brush, engine degreaser, spray from the water hose nozzle, brake parts cleaner and blow dry with compressed air.

 

[89Suburban]

Here’s a video on a 2008 6.0L but should be similar. Gets to the valley cover around 11:15.

I did watch that one. Like that guy. He’s got a sweet torque wrench too. I noticed his cover had o-rings on the bottom side. I don’t see them looking on Rock auto gaskets. Is that something I should worry about?