Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
Im constantly searching Facebook sales and offer up in vegas and southern cal for a set of decent used ones with tires for under 1000.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Im constantly searching Facebook sales and offer up in vegas and southern cal for a set of decent used ones with tires for under 1000.
mikeyss
Full Access Member
Its under output control, then throttle position. You can command it to open at certain percentages. Of course this is with the engine off, lol.
dszx13
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Nothing new. 
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George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Ordered up a belt tensioner and idler pulley. I noted a noise from under the hood that seemed like a whirring or slight squealing. I also noticed there was belt rubber residue on the alternator. Looking at the idler I can see there is what appears to be a groove from the belt. When I messes with the tensioner it seemed wimpy so they are both getting replaced.
tried to hook up resistors for the front led blinkers, that was a fail for the most part the resistors work if the running lights are not on, in the case of the yukons the blinker is also a marker/running light, I tried a variety of different ways which resulted in me blowing a courtesy light fuse (somehow the fuse also runs the front right blinker) and then the front left HID ballast decided it was a great time to develop a bad connection making me think I had somehow screwed the left low beam up at the same time, so after checking every fuse I finally decided to check the ballast for power and found the problem, meanwhile it had decided to continue raining like hell. but I wasn't giving up lol, fixed all that and back to normal hyperflash, I guess I will have to have the bcm programmed after all. The new gas cylinder for the hood arrived and got that put on. Battery's are only charging up to 12.26v that was a hot voltage so I will check it again in the morning and I think I will be making some changes either run a single new charging wire from the alternator to 1 battery or maybe disconnect the voltage monitor for a few days and see if that makes any difference and if not then getting new battery's.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I am not familiar with the Yukon wiring since I don't own one but doesn't it use a dual filament bulb for parking/running lights and turn signal?
If so, why would the parking light (low beam) filament have anything to do with the turn signal (high beam) filament?
It only needs a resistor on the turn signal side of the bulb.
on the yukon the marker light and blinker wires join together, (at the bulb connector) then from there 2 wires lead off to the small corner light, I can single out the blinker wire just fine, however there is just too much power when the marker light is on and the resistor is not strong enough, I could probably make only the small corner light a marker light and keep the larger blinker bulb just a blinker that was about the only combo I didn't try after I blew the fuse and it was raining I just fixed it and put everything back together, I have a spare harness that is already hacked up I may try again when the weather clears up. I don't know if the original incandescent was dual filament or not I still don't think it would make any difference with the voltage on the resistor.
I will have to do some more testing I am assuming the ground is cut for the blinker function but not sure now.
You’re running the resistor from the ground wire to the truck body, right? It shouldn’t matter if you’re adding resistance to one bulb or two or three, if they share the same ground wire then so be it.
on the bulb connector it has 5 wires, blinker/marker/side marker/2 grounds how it is configured inside I don't know, I can get it to work if only the blinker is going, with the marker lights on it wont work.
I tried grounding it to the body didn't make any difference
