Sam Harris
Supporting Member
Nice. Not exactly a dinghy. LolThe boat is in the lift. I estimate weight w/ trailer at 11,200.....View attachment 251262
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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I posted the Kooks long tubes that I couldn't fit on The Machine in the classifieds. It's a good deal for anyone doing non-catted headers. Ceramic coated too.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...non-catted-y-for-09-13-ceramic-coated.119774/
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...non-catted-y-for-09-13-ceramic-coated.119774/
Chert_Detective
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Labor came out to just shy of $1100, gave me the 'old cash discount to $1000 even. I bought front and rear ring/pinion kits with full rebuild kits last year for also right around $1,100. So I'm in $2,100-$2,200.
Chert_Detective
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Should look in to the AEM 30-4910 AFR/E Content sensor and gauge. That's what I'm running and love it. Afr hooks up just like normal, for ethanol content you can run your own power and ground supply or just tap in to the existing sensor, and then tap into the one wire feed to the computer. It will give you afr and ethanol percentage there at the gauge for you to see. I keep a log book normally anyways and record what mileage I do things at, whether it be just filling up or wipers, to more major things. But it's nice to know what mileage I filled up at, how far I drov . And what the before and after ethanol percentages are.
less parts less cost?
iamdub
Full Access Member
That's awesome they have a 2-in-1 gauge. Thanks for the lead!
I run their 30-4900 dual wideband failsafe gauge. It’s configurable for several different functions and you can hook up a relay to kill the engine or limit throttle if a preset condition like an extremely lean situation happens, so you don’t blow up your engine. I just use if to read AFR and boost, never wired in the failsafe option. I like it.
Glisella
Full Access Member
So I was changing the oil today and I guess last time I put my filter on too tight. I only use ACDelco PF48E but after this I might change to either k&n with the nut on the bottom or something else. Anyway my cap wrench removal tool wasn't working it was just slipping around the filter and my oil filter pliers wouldn't work, as you guys know there's really no room to get it around the filter. I don't have a strap wrench either. So I went with the old punch a hole into the side of the filter and that didn't work, although I have had luck in the past on other vehicles doing that. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles so that means I've done it about 35 times on this truck already without any issues.
Well one thing leads to another and eventually the whole can is ripped off and all that is left is what you see in the picture. It's the top 1/4" of the oil filter. The whole can peeled away and the insides fell out. Eventually I got it removed by grinding away and chiseling away at all the little holes around the center to make it a huge gap where I was able to get a pair of vice grips around and unscrew. I was wondering if anyone knows if you could replace just the threaded piece that the filter screws onto or do I need to potentially replace the whole pan? There is a nut towards the top of the nipple once the filter is removed.
The new filter went on fine and there are no leaks but the bottom two threads were a little mangled, nothing too crazy but enough to make me look into replacing next time I do the oil. I didn't want to try messing around with the nut to see if I can remove it because it's more important that I have another 5,000 miles to consider either replacing the whole pan or get the right part if that piece can be removed and replaced only. I looked on RockAuto and didn't see anything except new pans that have the threaded nipple on it already.
08 Yukon XL Denali.
Well one thing leads to another and eventually the whole can is ripped off and all that is left is what you see in the picture. It's the top 1/4" of the oil filter. The whole can peeled away and the insides fell out. Eventually I got it removed by grinding away and chiseling away at all the little holes around the center to make it a huge gap where I was able to get a pair of vice grips around and unscrew. I was wondering if anyone knows if you could replace just the threaded piece that the filter screws onto or do I need to potentially replace the whole pan? There is a nut towards the top of the nipple once the filter is removed.
The new filter went on fine and there are no leaks but the bottom two threads were a little mangled, nothing too crazy but enough to make me look into replacing next time I do the oil. I didn't want to try messing around with the nut to see if I can remove it because it's more important that I have another 5,000 miles to consider either replacing the whole pan or get the right part if that piece can be removed and replaced only. I looked on RockAuto and didn't see anything except new pans that have the threaded nipple on it already.
08 Yukon XL Denali.
Glisella
Full Access Member
This picture of a new pan shows what I'm referring to, anyone know if it's possible to just buy the small nipple/nut that screws into the pan and replace that only?
iamdub
Full Access Member
Yes, that part can be replaced. It's obviously a separate part that is screwed into the pan since it's steel and the pan is aluminum. I've always known them as an "oil filter adapter" since it's what is used when you're adapting a filter to a filter boss, such as on an aftermarket remote filter kit, etc.
...After a little digging, it looks like it is part number 12552357 and the proper name for it is "fitting" or "connector". Do your research to confirm as there are different threads sizes between the years.
