lowh07
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2017
- Posts
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Tucked away for the hurricane, but turns out it shouldn’t be too bad here. Hope everyone in south LA finds higher ground...
Last edited:
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
I got a warranty so im okay with that
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
Mine has started stumbling at idle immediately after cold cranking. It hunts back and forth a bit and then settles down. I cleaned the MAF six months ago. I'm going to clean the TB and see if that helps. I suspect it's got some gunk in it.
I didn't see an answer to Kee Fuller's question...remove the TB to clean or not?
Related question, assuming this may be causing the idle issue. How hard is it to replace the O2 sensors? When I got my BB tune, 17k miles ago, the tuner said they were getting a bit lazy, and recommended I replace them (front ones only, rear are disabled).
Red= +5 HP.Swapped the plugs and wires. At 135k, they appeared to be originals.
Can you feel the powa?!
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Missed that detail. I'd remove it since it's so easy to and to get a much more thorough cleaning. It'd also keep the gunk you're cleaning off from getting into the manifold where it would be sucked into the engine. If there's a film of gunk on the surface and you don't completely remove all of it, the cleaning chemicals could soften it so that it flows down and collects against the throttle blade where it will re-solidify and act as adhesive, making the blade stick.
Lazy O2 sensors can cause inaccurate fueling, which can certainly affect idle quality, drivability, reduced power, MPG, etc. The biggest pain with replacing them is unscrewing them. For one, they're kinda in a tight spot so getting the car up as high as possible on jack stands makes it easier. The bigger problem is that they've been known to be so tight (seized?) that people have had to replace the Y-pipe just to replace the sensors or at least remove it to break and drill them off. I'm sure this mostly depends on the rust factor in your area. Mine were tight, but backed out by hand after cracking them loose with crescent wrench. Rust doesn't exist here, though.
I highly recommend Denso O2 sensors.
I need to change the brakes on my wife’s 2017 Acadia and saw where it’s now recommended to change the rotors out as well instead of having them resurfaced. Something about they’re made with such tight tolerances now they don’t have the material to remove.
Is there validity to this?
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Is there validity to this?
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PG01
Supporting Member
Nah, just the cheap price of new rotors nowadays.... plus not as many shops resurface any more as the rotors are so cheap.
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
If they're just glazed, you can go over them with a random orbit sander to give them a uniform bedding surface for the new pads. If they're grooved, it's about the same to replace them as to get them turned, assuming you can find a shop that will even do it. The minimum rotor thickness should be cast into them, or otherwise marked near the hub area, or on the outer edge.
Monz11
Full Access Member
Sam, Gruvenparts makes billet T hose connectors, and you can also pick up Vibrant Silicone hoses, that will never go out.
