What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Monz11
Full Access Member
Engine almost completed. Just have to install thermostat housing, steam line kit, and Maggy.
My brother started cutting the rear bump stops, while I finished this beauty Sunday. I should get the tranny back, after vacation in a few weeks.
Order maggy, vibrant silicone hoses, braided E85 fuel lines, and black braided tranny lines.
My brother started cutting the rear bump stops, while I finished this beauty Sunday. I should get the tranny back, after vacation in a few weeks.
Order maggy, vibrant silicone hoses, braided E85 fuel lines, and black braided tranny lines.
Drok
Full Access Member
So i know im way late on this, been busy at work. I forget who was talking about reverse leds but these are what i have and they’re fantastic. Got them from superbrightleds.com. I also have them in the other two spots in the taillight but in red led
apparently my truck is on its side, Idk why the pic is that way. Haha
apparently my truck is on its side, Idk why the pic is that way. Haha
iamdub
Full Access Member
That's what I was told last I went to O'reilly's to have mine resurfaced. Their lathe was down and they said corporate wasn't so concerned with fixing it because rotors now are designed to be "one time use and disposable". It's not tight tolerances, it's thinner rotors that are pretty much already at their minimum thickness when new. I took my "old school" rotors across the street to the mechanic shop and they turned them for $8 each. I measured them before and after and they were a hair over the minimum thickness after resurfacing.
front drivers side is a bit of a ***** to get to because the space is tight, I had to use both a 02 socket and a offset socket to get it in tight, getting it out shouldn't be that hard because you just need to break it loose.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Spent about 4 hours under it trying to figure out how I'm gonna do my crazy ass exhaust. Well, about 2 hours of that time was working on the valve.
Made cardboard templates of each of the mufflers to figure out orientation. The smaller one I'm currently running is a centered/offset configuration, the long one I'll be adding is centered/centered. Was trying to determine which one should go first and how it and the valve will be positioned. It looks like it's gonna come down to me modifying the cross member for the extra space.
Yes, I'm still working on that damned mower... Sometimes.
So far, I'm thinking this is a winner. Put the bigger one first and angle it and the valve as pictured so that I can tuck it up as high as possible with nothing extending below the frame rails with about 1/2" to spare. The second muffler will be clocked the same. The 3" straight pipe will run parallel. It will be on the ground/far side of the system so the mufflers will act as a sound barrier between it and the floor of the cabin. They will merge together right at the arch that goes over the axle.
I also tested out the DPDT rocker switch on the valve. I'll do all the wiring at the switch so I'll only have to run two wires to the switch (12V+ and ground) and then two wires (+ and -) from the switch down to the valve to have bi-directional control.
Made cardboard templates of each of the mufflers to figure out orientation. The smaller one I'm currently running is a centered/offset configuration, the long one I'll be adding is centered/centered. Was trying to determine which one should go first and how it and the valve will be positioned. It looks like it's gonna come down to me modifying the cross member for the extra space.
Yes, I'm still working on that damned mower... Sometimes.
So far, I'm thinking this is a winner. Put the bigger one first and angle it and the valve as pictured so that I can tuck it up as high as possible with nothing extending below the frame rails with about 1/2" to spare. The second muffler will be clocked the same. The 3" straight pipe will run parallel. It will be on the ground/far side of the system so the mufflers will act as a sound barrier between it and the floor of the cabin. They will merge together right at the arch that goes over the axle.
I also tested out the DPDT rocker switch on the valve. I'll do all the wiring at the switch so I'll only have to run two wires to the switch (12V+ and ground) and then two wires (+ and -) from the switch down to the valve to have bi-directional control.
992dr
Full Access Member
I have seen that, that fitting is not cracked (yet) this was only to replace the Y down by the thermostat housing.
Since it's my daily and only means of transportation I had to button it up quickly. That is my plan and will definitely be a project for a later date.
Interested in this crazy ass exhaust. Will you be running two mufflers and a straight pipe with the valve? I'm trying to picture it but am too tired haha. Doodle it up
iamdub
Full Access Member
Doodling it up sounds fun! Gimme a few...
PG01
Supporting Member
Sorry, just getting back to this. I'd suck at a build thread as I don't stop to take pictures...ever. Unless it's an engine that I'm gonna play with on the flowbench or dyno or put in a fun car, I consider it simply a mode of transportation. Basics are as follows: Crank/rods stock but light polish on the crank and resized the rods for ARPs. Weisco pistons/rings (.50 over). Heads worked to flow 22cfm more at 600 intake and 15 cfm more at 600 ex. Stock cam, new LS7 lifters, BTR pushrods, comp trunion kit, mellings pump and everything else is just GM stuff. Nothing special. No power adder. No juice. No full roller T&D Rockers. Just the time taken to make sure all the little things (front/rear mains centered, oil pan flush with back of block, oil pump centered...etc) are done right. I need another 130k out of this!
