gooffeyguy
Tom
Line either broke or disconnected, or frozen
Do you see any puddles under the truck, especially along the driver's side?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Do you see any puddles under the truck, especially along the driver's side?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
It’s not getting fluid at the nozzle...
usually the motor housing cracks and spits all the washer fluid out on the ground, this also sometimes makes the tank leak from the housing even when it is just sitting there. there are 2 different pumps for the front & rear on the tank, they can be replaced rather easily.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Half hour drive today with a shut off and restart at the store. Half hour drive back. Worked its way down to 14 and then back up. I am just watching it as I drive. It’s probably fine.
If you hear the motor then you probably have a broken hose or the hose came off the pump. You’ll have to pull the driver side wheel and fender liner to get to the pumps at the bottom of the reservoir. Then you can see if the hose is connected, if it is pull it off the pump and have someone hit the switch while you watch to see if fluid squirts out. There’s 2 pumps, I don’t remember which one is the rear. If it does you’ll have to follow the hose back to see if it’s leaking or pinched.
I believe the lower one is for the rear I recently had to replace one on the 05
if you do have to replace a motor just unbolt the tank (3 bolts) then it will drop down a couple inches and you can get the motor off from underneath, the motor is held on with a grommet and kind of clips in a slot and the wire harness clip on top, just pop it off and it's cake from there. or take the 2nd battery bracket off and the tank comes out straight up
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Well i just installed the crank balancer bolt...
I don't know what crap they were smoking when they wrote those instructions, but holly F.
Maybe i over torqued it a little before the final pass, but that 230 degree final pass is total bs.
I now have a big bruise on the bottom of my arm from it.
I made it to 120 degrees before my full weight on the breaker bar before it slipped off and bam!
I put a dab of blue Loctite on it for good luck, good enough.
I don't know what crap they were smoking when they wrote those instructions, but holly F.
Maybe i over torqued it a little before the final pass, but that 230 degree final pass is total bs.
I now have a big bruise on the bottom of my arm from it.
I made it to 120 degrees before my full weight on the breaker bar before it slipped off and bam!
I put a dab of blue Loctite on it for good luck, good enough.
PG01
Supporting Member
Key or remote start after it sits it will run up the scale for a bit then settle in like doubie said.
I’ve been beating my batteries up for the last few days while plowing and gauge has been low due to all the draw from plow, heat, defrost wipers, radio and of course heated seats...I started it up this morning and it was up over 14, raised the plow and drive my daughter to her friends and before I got home it was back towards the lower middle of the gauge.... normal for my truck.
My point here is depending on you battery state of charge, the rvc will adjust alt output to what battery needs and what accessories need. If you battery is starting to go you’ll notice the gauge at a higher level than more often than not. I’m not saying your battery is bad, just saying the rvc adjusts for all circumstances...... until your battery craps out.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Thanks.
