What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Just Fishing]

Oh here we go...



starting with the basics, check piston to valve clearance using an old lifter that i have shimmed up.
(super light valve checking springs installed)
Then check lifter preload with the real lifters to confirm push rod length.

Then the pita task, removing material and polishing.


Oh and the old mls gasket that i have on the head.
Once i removed the outer two layers, exactly .030 thickness.
and it's a 4in bore size, perfect for a template as i remove material.

to bad it's not .027... lol

 

[lowh07]

Pull your bits from the old engine and put on the new engine?

Only real problem i see is that reluctor wheel on the crank...
I heard rumors about an adapter to make it work, but you loose a bunch of resolution.
and I don't know if the knock sensor location will be an issue or not...


What I'm doing with mine.
Took the 5.3 crank, rods, heads, intake, etc.
got 4in pistons and rings, had the assembly balanced with a brand new GM 6.0 block.

I have 799 heads, and apparently they are somewhat desirable for low end.
(low end is what i really want from the hoe)
And looking at the chambers, they match up perfectly with a 4in bore!
(more so once I'm done)

basically since my truck is an 09, I'm using an 09 trailblazer SS with the 6.0 as a template.
The trailblazers 6.0 used 799 heads, exactly the same intake, and throttle body and injectors as my 5.3
from there, i took a base tune from hp tuners website for that trailblazer ss and did a little copy paste of the values.

transmission settings, i took from an escalade base tune since the pressures are a tad higher than the base 5.3.

can't wait to see if it works...
I'm hoping i won't need a tuner right away.

if it came down to it, you always could yank the crank and see if a machine shop could swap the reluctor wheel.

I’m going through engine completely anyways so that’s not a huge deal. Reluctor wheel and knock sensor location seem to be the main things. I’m reading where some people have had the blocks drilled and tapped.

 

[08z71bgm]

yeah more $$!
I don't think i can return the camshaft at this point since it's in the engine.
but it's a possibility still...

i'm going to try and increase the chamber size, but in the end i might end up at the machine shop for another wait.
We shall see how motivated i get this weekend!

Use a larger compressed gasket size to lower it if you didn’t buy pushrods yet. No need to change the cam out then. Instead of using .040 use something like .080.


Pm me the info you’re calculating. You are using the L94 cam?

 

[lowh07]

If the 6.0/4l80 comes with a new computer, harness, everything... why would it be an issue at all?? Unless it’s better to use the original computer. Forgive my ignorance... going to be learning a lot here

 

[08z71bgm]

Pull your bits from the old engine and put on the new engine?

Only real problem i see is that reluctor wheel on the crank...
I heard rumors about an adapter to make it work, but you loose a bunch of resolution.
and I don't know if the knock sensor location will be an issue or not...


What I'm doing with mine.
Took the 5.3 crank, rods, heads, intake, etc.
got 4in pistons and rings, had the assembly balanced with a brand new GM 6.0 block.

I have 799 heads, and apparently they are somewhat desirable for low end.
(low end is what i really want from the hoe)
And looking at the chambers, they match up perfectly with a 4in bore!
(more so once I'm done)

basically since my truck is an 09, I'm using an 09 trailblazer SS with the 6.0 as a template.
The trailblazers 6.0 used 799 heads, exactly the same intake, and throttle body and injectors as my 5.3
from there, i took a base tune from hp tuners website for that trailblazer ss and did a little copy paste of the values.

transmission settings, i took from an escalade base tune since the pressures are a tad higher than the base 5.3.

can't wait to see if it works...
I'm hoping i won't need a tuner right away.

if it came down to it, you always could yank the crank and see if a machine shop could swap the reluctor wheel.

If you know a really good port guy I would get the heads ported and yes they are desirable because they are the ls2 heads. On a tight budget those heads are good on larger displacements for that reason. They won’t flow upstairs as much as rectangle port but mast makes a set of carherdeal heads that flow like the combination of both. Great velocity for low end torque but lots of volume for upstairs.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I looked a few years and could not come up with anything, only aftermarket. The only measurable data was the wattage of the electric motors, 500 or 700.

Yes alex, I will take fans for 700 please.

 

[lowh07]

I'm viewing this on my PC and your name comes up. Gen III does not use Canbus architecture and their computers cannot talk to Gen IV computers. The Gen IIIs crankshaft has a 24 tooth reluctor which is not compatible with Gen IV computers which rely on a 58 tooth reluctor. You can swap cranks or reluctors nowadays I hear. Then there is the aforementioned harness that I was told about but do not remember reading about it.

Just spent 5 minutes googling, I'd rather run a 6.2 than the old LQ4 with all the work involved. Not even sure that 4L80 will work either.

I'm just the first to come along, these fellas have forgotten more than I'll ever know on this topic.

Where's Chris? @iamdub Where's Randy? @randeez

@91RS @Tonyrodz @fasteddy @1BADI5 @Scottydoggs @01ssreda4

have fun paying for that 6.2... LQ4s are awesome platforms and more than capable. The 4L80 will definitely work and that in itself isn’t too difficult of a conversion

 

[08z71bgm]

have fun paying for that 6.2... LQ4s are awesome platforms and more than capable. The 4L80 will definitely work and that in itself isn’t too difficult of a conversion

You can buy at least 2-3 lq4 engines for the price of one l94 but for the sake of ease of swap gen iv for gen iv I’d suck it up and use the l94. The lq4 is a solid engine for old school cars.

 

[Just Fishing]

Use a larger compressed gasket size to lower it if you didn’t buy pushrods yet. No need to change the cam out then. Instead of using .040 use something like .080.


Pm me the info you’re calculating. You are using the L94 cam?

I think i sent you an IM, or a "conversation" what ever that is.

This is my camshaft incase you missed it, pretty sure that's a L94, but the non dod and non vvt version.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12623063

 

[Sparksalot]

Drove it to see the sunset.

View attachment 280294 View attachment 280295 View attachment 280296

So I kept driving west on Thursday. About 400 miles, the last 20 on dirt. Thecopcar was still sorta clean yesterday morning.



Yesterday kept going. Started at 7,400 elevation, ended at 9,500. Also did 100 miles totally on dirt. This morning looked a bit dirty.