What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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pwtr02ss

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@Rocket Man Yes of course I did a full bleed, that's why I am going through this in the first place. All my bleeders were rusted and frozen to dog ****. That Motive pressure bleeder is on my Amazon wish list, thank to you!! :) , but I do not have it yet. So I had do to it old school for now but all is going well so far. I am not bottoming out the M/C either when I am bleeding. I hear horror stories about that ruining seals in the M/C.


EDIT:


To be quite honest, a lot of "gravity bleeding" worked well so far. When I did the R/R I used my vacuum pump tp pull a lot through the main line, toping of the M/C reservoir a few times. Id' say about a quart? Then I used an assistant to foot bleed the caliper afterewards.

On this on I removed the brake line, dumped the caliper out, let the brake line run into the pan for a bit. Gave it a half dozen pumps to help flush it. Let it keep running into the pan afterwards. Mounted the new caliper and the hose. Opened the bleeder. Let gravity fill it til it started running it. Let it run for a bit. Closed it. Did the foot bleed again. Turned out very good so far.

now onto the fronts the next few weeks!! :)
Link to said bleeder? I've been wanting to get one
 

Tonyrodz

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Is that just a replacement tank or the entire kit? If that's the entire kit that's a good price. I think this one is the complete kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MA761PV9Z25CFP9NC2KH
 

alpha_omega

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Parts arrived this morning, along with the new O2 sensors delivered late last night

Oxygen Sensor - 12583804
Oxygen Sensor - 12609457
Ride Height Sensor - 15098628
Ride Height Sensor - 15098629 (RH)
Driveshaft Bolt - 11548472

image.jpg


Which one of you took that fourth motor Mount to motor bolt that I can’t for the life of me seem to find?
 

alpha_omega

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I just purchased GM replacement struts and all the related dust shields and isolators. They don't come pre-assembled and ready to drop in though. You have to have the springs compressed to take them apart.

Arnott sells a pre-assembled front strut ready to drop in, but it's passive (not electronic/magnetic) and comes with a plug that plugs into the wiring connector to keep the system happy and no dash messages.

Exactly my thoughts. I don’t feel like losing any teeth in the process of compressing for removal/installation. Although Arnott makes a good product, I’m not willing to give up the awesome ride that IS the bread and butter of the Denali. OEM it is…

All the p/n for the struts hardware and extra parts should be on the ACD website correct? The rear airbag shocks weren’t too bad, minus working around the splash guard and compressor motor. Much less “exciting” as compared to the fronts. My upper ball joint bushings are starting to dry rot, so I’m tempted to do a whole rack and pinion, upper CA, lower CA, struts all in one fell swoop. It shouldn’t take longer than 15min maybe 30 tops. Right? Hell it will take me longer than that just to look up and order the parts.
 

Doubeleive

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Exactly my thoughts. I don’t feel like losing any teeth in the process of compressing for removal/installation. Although Arnott makes a good product, I’m not willing to give up the awesome ride that IS the bread and butter of the Denali. OEM it is…

All the p/n for the struts hardware and extra parts should be on the ACD website correct? The rear airbag shocks weren’t too bad, minus working around the splash guard and compressor motor. Much less “exciting” as compared to the fronts. My upper ball joint bushings are starting to dry rot, so I’m tempted to do a whole rack and pinion, upper CA, lower CA, struts all in one fell swoop. It shouldn’t take longer than 15min maybe 30 tops. Right? Hell it will take me longer than that just to look up and order the parts.
front should be the same as mine 580432
 
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Exactly my thoughts. I don’t feel like losing any teeth in the process of compressing for removal/installation. Although Arnott makes a good product, I’m not willing to give up the awesome ride that IS the bread and butter of the Denali. OEM it is…

All the p/n for the struts hardware and extra parts should be on the ACD website correct? The rear airbag shocks weren’t too bad, minus working around the splash guard and compressor motor. Much less “exciting” as compared to the fronts. My upper ball joint bushings are starting to dry rot, so I’m tempted to do a whole rack and pinion, upper CA, lower CA, struts all in one fell swoop. It shouldn’t take longer than 15min maybe 30 tops. Right? Hell it will take me longer than that just to look up and order the parts.
I ordered all the parts from RockAuto. There a quite a few different models of strut "cartridges" and you have to find the ones that have your suspension code listed. The suspension code is usually the last 2 RPO codes listed on the sticker and one is for left and one is for right.

Mine are the 6F1 and 7F1 shown on the sticker below

20180816_130258.jpg
 

alpha_omega

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Is that just a replacement tank or the entire kit? If that's the entire kit that's a good price. I think this one is the complete kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MA761PV9Z25CFP9NC2KH

That Summit one is just the tank, you need the kit you linked on Amazon Tony.
Ive been telling myself it’s time to order one of these for quite some time now.

I did break down a few years back and order a brake bleeder ratchet. Why I ever fumbled around using ANY other tool setup other than that style bleeder is beyond me. One side is the socket, in the middle is the ratchet handle and the other side has a barbed end so you can attach a piece of hose running down to your bottle of fluid. I use a Gatorade bottle because of the fact it has a wider base, is a heavier bottle and is clear, so I can watch the bubbles and old fluid/new fluid. Works great with the bleeder pump you guys mentioned.

D1B649CF-EC25-4A7F-A11C-5E03115FEB0E.jpeg
this isn’t the exact one I bought, but is very similar.
 

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