Caliper #2 replaced and flushed. Just got the front two calipers to go.
Look at this nasty **** coming out when I dumped the old caliper fluid out.
Look at this nasty **** coming out when I dumped the old caliper fluid out.
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You’re thinking brake fluid and Pwr Steering fluid. Those are deadly for anything other than the container they sit in. Even those don’t last forever.Isn't transmission fluid deadly for paint finishes?
Yummy! I’m hoping you did a full flush/bleed instead of pushing in the pistons and pulling them off. Well, I suppose even if you push the piston but still do a good flush/bleed you shouldn’t contaminate the system.Caliper #2 replaced and flushed. Just got the front two calipers to go.
Look at this nasty **** coming out when I dumped the old caliper fluid out.
Fluid Film? Never heard of it. Is it similar to muscle grease?
I just purchased GM replacement struts and all the related dust shields and isolators. They don't come pre-assembled and ready to drop in though. You have to have the springs compressed to take them apart.Ok. Since I only seem to get on here every once in a while, but often seem to blow up the damn forum with my replies to everyone’s posts/comments all at once before…
“radio silence”
….So one more before I get my ass back under the hood.
Shocks. Mine look. Um…the front shocks on my Denali look…unhappy. Not hole in them unhappy, but rusted enough from multiple Michigan winters. Do I stick with OEM or are there any better ones out there. I do have the terribly expensive ones due to the Denali package, so I’m not even sure if I can tackle that job myself. I like having my teeth (Still in where they belong. All of them), so there’s no need to fight with that kind of tension and pressure. But nonetheless, they still need to be ordered.
Thoughts?
Caliper #2 replaced and flushed. Just got the front two calipers to go.
Look at this nasty **** coming out when I dumped the old caliper fluid out.
Looks like 15 year old fluid. Hope you did a full flush? I use a Motive pressure bleeder, it makes a 1-man operation out of it and its super easy. No compressor and no suction on the bleeders, just pressure from the MC. And it refills the MC as you go.
I am doing one caliper a weekend starting on the R/R and moving towards the F/L. I don't fully push the piston into the caliper, only enough to pry off the bracket. So I did a "full flush" to the R/R last weekend, L/R this weekend, and to TBC to the L/F.Yummy! I’m hoping you did a full flush/bleed instead of pushing in the pistons and pulling them off. Well, I suppose even if you push the piston but still do a good flush/bleed you shouldn’t contaminate the system.
It looks like it’s been a min since they were changed and/or someone was ******* the pedal. All the heating up and then cooling down of the brake fluid causes condensation in the lines…and since brake fluid is hygroscopic, and it absorbs moisture even when the vehicle isn’t driven all that water then mixes like muddy water and chocolate milk. Kinda looks similar to hydraulic fluid that has gotten water in the lines.
Best practice is to change ALL of your brake fluid annually if you tow a lot or do a lot of city driving.
Nice work though. Looking good and probably feeling MUCH better now.
Better off in what sense?You’re better off carrying a balance to show you’re responsible enough to have “revolving credit” as opposed to having either a maxed out card or a card that you could potentially use the max amount on.