George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I would recommend one with a dump valve. Makes removal easier.Thanks, added to my list for the future. I’m sure sooner or later I’ll need it.
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I would recommend one with a dump valve. Makes removal easier.Thanks, added to my list for the future. I’m sure sooner or later I’ll need it.
Thanks for that info. Might be good to carry one as a spare. It baffles me why GM has designed so many parts to require programming to install. Why should a FPCM care what the VIN is? In a proper design the PCM should be able to communicate with that module and command a fuel pressure, and the module just gets it done.I believe Dorman makes a FPCM that doesn’t require local programming, I think they call it something like plug and play OE fix. I have no idea how that works, but I am pretty sure they sell one.
Oh joy. Well I'll probably just get that replaced too. Downtime is a big hassle when we're on the road because I don't have any spare vehicles. Plus I built this to wander far afield. Breaking down off-road can be a major event or recovery expense.ya it's a classic fuel pump problem if it stumbles at idle or if it surges at speed
Thanks for that info. Might be good to carry one as a spare. It baffles me why GM has designed so many parts to require programming to install. Why should a FPCM care what the VIN is? In a proper design the PCM should be able to communicate with that module and command a fuel pressure, and the module just gets it done.
FWIW, my money is on the fuel pump, especially if the FPCM is still sealed up and not damp inside. My logic for selecting the fuel pump is because it is a MUCH bigger hassle to replace than the FPCM. At least, that is always the way it seems to go for me.Thanks for that info. Might be good to carry one as a spare. It baffles me why GM has designed so many parts to require programming to install. Why should a FPCM care what the VIN is? In a proper design the PCM should be able to communicate with that module and command a fuel pressure, and the module just gets it done.
Yeah they don’t do it just so it’s tied to a VIN. Same thing with door lock modules etc. Different vehicles have different options or parameters and they need to be programmed in. The VIN is just the decoder so to speak.It's not necessarily that the VIN gets programmed to the module -- PCMs excluded, though -- the VIN is needed to be sure whatever tool is programming it has the correct options that are affected by the module, and that the correct calibration is programmed. Lots of modules can be swapped between vehicles with like options, at least for testing.
run by any auto parts or harbor freight and get a cheapy fuel pressure tester before you blow a *** on shotgunning it, the most typical problem is the fuel pump alone, you can connect it and stick it up in between the hood hinge and window area turned so you can see it while you drive. when that miss hits watch the gauge.Oh joy. Well I'll probably just get that replaced too. Downtime is a big hassle when we're on the road because I don't have any spare vehicles. Plus I built this to wander far afield. Breaking down off-road can be a major event or recovery expense.
Might as well, and the tank strap bolts/ nut clip things. They seize up sometimes and when you try to remove them they strip out. Sorry I don't have a p/n.Good idea to order a retainer / lock ring if I buy the pump?
This was a Texas truck no rust. But it’s cheap and the last thing I’ll want to hear is more parts are needed after the tank is dropped. Supply chains are too ******* up these days.
LOL $crewed is censored.