What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[pwtr02ss]

This….

Same

 

[Bill 1960]

Anyone else have a wiring harness that has nearly fallen apart in the engine bay? The loom under the hood everywhere is shot and just crumbles if you look at it.

Oh yeah. The condition of the wiring causes me more concern than any other system on this truck.

 

[89Suburban]

Replaced the Condenser with my daughter. Was also going to replace the line between it and the accumulator but one part was clocked differently so we could not use it. The line however looked excellent as did the filters in it so we cleaned up the ends and used the new gaskets and o-rings from the other one. No leaks, nice and cold in the cab but really need to test it all out after the sun comes up.

We were rewarded for our efforts with a bad front $159 Airbag sensor! So it is either disconnected or we broke it putting the bumper cover back on somehow. Must've been that one time I let slip the Lord's name in vain! The skeeters were so big they had N-numbers on their tails and one of them or something bit me good to where after I brushed it away blood kept coming out of my hand for a while.

Anyone else have a wiring harness that has nearly fallen apart in the engine bay? The loom under the hood everywhere is shot and just crumbles if you look at it.

I had one like that bite me right on top of my head. Huge ass welt and bleeding pretty bad. Pissed me off!!

yeah my engine wire loom cover is the same thing. On the tinkering list to fix that up at some point.

 

[iamdub]

Anyone else have a wiring harness that has nearly fallen apart in the engine bay? The loom under the hood everywhere is shot and just crumbles if you look at it.

Mine is completely gone on the trunk line next to the alternator (can see it in my sig pic). It's still hanging on most everywhere else, but can easily be cracked and chipped away. I wanna replace it either with new of that same type or the mesh style that @Monz11 has. I like the fully-encapsulating aspect of the factory loom but the mesh would look more modern and would match how I did my Big 3 wiring.

I intermittently research brands and materials of the convoluted style to see what holds up as good or better than the factory stuff, but quickly lose interest due to inconclusive findings. I'll likely get the mesh since I see that it's split. I thought it wasn't, which would require unpinning of every connector too large to fit.

 

[alpha_omega]

Weeeeell... it's not the only way. I'm too tight to buy specialty tools I'll rarely use and probably lose before I ever use them again. I cycle the key on during the downstroke of the brake pedal. The ABS solenoids are activated as part of the system test. With the system under pressure and the fluid being pushed downstream, the old fluid quickly gets pushed out and chased by the new fluid. I do this about five times per corner during my one-man bleeding process. It's never failed me and only costs a little bit of battery power.

Never had any issues doing it this way? I’ve seen guys try this (different vehicle all together but still a GM product and one was a Ford) and end up having to take it in to have the system flushed. I’m not sure if they did something wrong (wouldn’t surprise me), or if the module thought a lockout was occurring so it tried to “prevent skidding”.
I do know that if you do the full system bleed without a Tech2 (if you introduced air to the system when changing out a master cylinder, abs control module), then you need to bleed the system before AND after you attempt the module bleed. On some vehicles after doing the bleed as you mentioned - turning the key on and off to cycle the module - you should disconnect the abs sensor after (or while) you are depressing the pedal. Sometimes this method requires the vehicle to be run and the brakes used so the solenoids can adjust properly. Which personally the whole thing can be a tedious pain in the ass, so a bleeder pump, bleed through wrench and a Tech2 make quick easy work out of it.

 

[alpha_omega]

I'd like to move my spare to gain departure angle, but i have no good place to put it yet.

How bout in your garage? My spare is not the same size as my tires are now or the same size as the ones I had on when I first removed the spare. So…it sits in the shop to be used probably never. If I get a flat I will either leave the vehicle and repair/replace the tire, or make my insurance company do the job I pay them for (free towing and free roadside).

 

[alpha_omega]

Anyone else have a wiring harness that has nearly fallen apart in the engine bay? The loom under the hood everywhere is shot and just crumbles if you look at it.

We have some bad skeeters up here, but nothing like the Pterodactyl sized state birds you guys get down south.

The Loom GM uses is junk. Crumbles in every vehicle. I took mine off, wrapped them in the mesh and then used the silver foil tape or silver heat shield in places where it was really bad due to engine/tranny heat (near the starter). To keep the new mesh loom in place I used a silicone tape that sticks to itself better than any electrical tape I’ve ever used. That stuff is magic! Plus it’s heat resistant.

 

[Sparksalot]

Anyone else have a wiring harness that has nearly fallen apart in the engine bay? The loom under the hood everywhere is shot and just crumbles if you look at it.

Thecopcar has a little of this. Theothertwin is 2 years newer and is riddled with it. I don’t know if the material is different or just location. Thecopcar seems to have been near San Antonio, while theothertwin was in Victoria, much nearer the coast.

 

[iamdub]

Never had any issues doing it this way? I’ve seen guys try this (different vehicle all together but still a GM product and one was a Ford) and end up having to take it in to have the system flushed. I’m not sure if they did something wrong (wouldn’t surprise me), or if the module thought a lockout was occurring so it tried to “prevent skidding”.
I do know that if you do the full system bleed without a Tech2 (if you introduced air to the system when changing out a master cylinder, abs control module), then you need to bleed the system before AND after you attempt the module bleed. On some vehicles after doing the bleed as you mentioned - turning the key on and off to cycle the module - you should disconnect the abs sensor after (or while) you are depressing the pedal. Sometimes this method requires the vehicle to be run and the brakes used so the solenoids can adjust properly. Which personally the whole thing can be a tedious pain in the ass, so a bleeder pump, bleed through wrench and a Tech2 make quick easy work out of it.

No doubt the Tech2 would be easier and I'm not discounting using specialty equipment. Call it blind luck, but I've never had an issue. I've done this on various generations of GM trucks (S-series and 1500s), Hondas (5th-7th gen Civics and 4th-6th gen Accords), a few late-model Toyotas, a few Jeeps, Ford cars and 1/4 and 1/2 ton trucks, etc. The way I see it, I'm operating the system within its normal design. I guess the only difference is that it's at lower pressures per pedal position since it has a "leak".

What I did have an issue with was the first brake job I did on my Tahoe. During the bleeding, the pedal went soft during the last corner. The master cylinder failed. The bore was worn in the range where the piston had been normally stroked for 150K+ miles. What I learned was that, when bleeding, my pumping it to the floor put the piston into virtually unused bore area that was smaller/tighter, tearing the aged seal(s) on the piston. I got a new MC, bench-bled it, re-bled the whole system again and it's been great ever since. After the bedding-in process, I did plenty of very hard test stops on pavement and the ABS performed great. 50K miles later, I did another brake job, this time using a piece of 2x4 to prevent bottoming out of the pedal or MC and with the same flush and bleed method I've always done. I have none of the "dead travel" in the pedal that is so common with GM brakes.

I do the key on/off method with plastic bottle and clear hose hanging by the caliper. I use my phone linked to my GoPro to watch the bottle while I pump.

 

[89Suburban]

No doubt the Tech2 would be easier and I'm not discounting using specialty equipment. Call it blind luck, but I've never had an issue. I've done this on various generations of GM trucks (S-series and 1500s), Hondas (5th-7th gen Civics and 4th-6th gen Accords), a few late-model Toyotas, a few Jeeps, Ford cars and 1/4 and 1/2 ton trucks, etc. The way I see it, I'm operating the system within its normal design. I guess the only difference is that it's at lower pressures per pedal position since it has a "leak".

What I did have an issue with was the first brake job I did on my Tahoe. During the bleeding, the pedal went soft during the last corner. The master cylinder failed. The bore was worn in the range where the piston had been normally stroked for 150K+ miles. What I learned was that, when bleeding, my pumping it to the floor put the piston into virtually unused bore area that was smaller/tighter, tearing the aged seal(s) on the piston. I got a new MC, bench-bled it, re-bled the whole system again and it's been great ever since. After the bedding-in process, I did plenty of very hard test stops on pavement and the ABS performed great. 50K miles later, I did another brake job, this time using a piece of 2x4 to prevent bottoming out of the pedal or MC and with the same flush and bleed method I've always done. I have none of the "dead travel" in the pedal that is so common with GM brakes.

I do the key on/off method with plastic bottle and clear hose hanging by the caliper. I use my phone linked to my GoPro to watch the bottle while I pump.

I kept that in mind when doing the first rounds of the bleed. Told the operator only go half way down and stop. From fear of the MC seals getting jacked up. Now with the new MC we did the full travel bleed and it feels great.

As far as the ABS bleed process proper way or otherwise, I did not do it. Just a regular bleed procedure. All seems fine, so either I got lucky or it will bite me in the ass at some point? We’ll see.