What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Bill 1960]

Looks great!

Could the harness/connector going into the computer gotten wet?

Certainly possible, although I didn’t direct any water right at it. Consensus seems to be blame the starter at this age, so I’ll go ahead and replace it today before getting dirty again. As long as I have a good starter, I can always force it to crank.

Probably time to take a day off from exploring anyway- it’s rained again overnight and it’s wet clay everywhere. Combined with the wide track from the lift, this thing is just a mess in muddy conditions.

 

[wsteele]

That's cheap. I paid almost $200 each for Duralast(rebuilt). That was my cost at Advance Auto.

I understand, I bet if I walked up to the Napa desk and asked for their Napa gold (or whatever Napa calls their premium stuff now) it might be more.

I just checked one of the OE direct web sites and an OE starter is $290 before tax and shipping, so you definitely can run the tab up depending on what you want.

When I got out of the service my first job was an assembler on an assembly line of relatively large electro mechanical equipment. The section of the line I worked on we did both new production and reman (they called it equivalent to new), depending on what day it was. The reman stuff we produced always had fewer DOA and field failures than the new stuff. I don’t think all reman stuff is the same as new, but I think if you pick your supplier carefully, you can do just as well as new with reman for a substantial savings.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Looks like a fishing lure, sparkly!
I like sparkly...
Girls with those sparkly back pockets and belts also seem to get my attention.

I might be a trout.

A trouser Trout

 

[alpha_omega]

There is a GM#88875301 Coil Spring set.
(Constant rate spring, w/ Electronic Dampening control suspension).
2 dealer shows to have this set.

Chicago Parts and Sound, LLC
(262)781-7180
Elk Grove Village, IL

Chicago Parts and Sound
(888)781-7180
Brookfield, WI

Awesome bud…Thanks! And regarding the other message - I don’t know what you’re talking about, someone at the front desk told me the price markdown.

How do the Coil Spring Sets compare to what I have originally?

I’m also seeing GM p/n 20842473
This is the original coil which was then superseded by GM 25909352 correct? Oddly enough the original coil is available, was there a recall or some issue with that coil?

I see the photo's now, that being a pretty rare case, if new is not readily available I would just go with a used set and install new shocks, looks like some sort of metallurgy issue

Ok. Thanks. If I can’t find a new set that’s the direction I was leaning towards, as opposed to an aftermarket set. Question is, can I find a used set of the same coils in decent shape. I already have a new set of the OEM shocks on hand.

I'm a little late to the party here, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? Replace the springs up front?

Yes sir. Full front suspension replacement.
- Upper and Lower Control Arms
- Inner and Outer Tie Rods
- Struts/Shocks
- Coil Springs
- Bellows, Insulators, Mounts…etc
- Sway Bar (brackets, bolts, bushings)
- End Links

Shocks are not far from giving out.

Coil Springs driver and passenger side each have approx a 3” long by 1/8-1/4” deep rust crack on opposite ends of the bottom portion of the coil and are turning to dust…ready to go at anytime. Almost makes me leery working around them, I’ve been really easy lowering the Jack.

Control arm bushings are dry rotted and one of the ball joint boots is blown (I’m 99% sure was from the shop who did my alignment. I swear someone used a needle greaser but I can’t prove it. I know for sure that both boots were fine when I took it in there, but when I got home the grease I found spewing out and slung on everything in the passenger wheel housing was a different color than what I use. And not a different color as in darker used grease, as in: red vs green).

End Links were in “ok” shape, but might as well be replaced while I have the sway bar out.

Sway Bar has a similar issue on either end of it similar to the coils. Almost like someone lubed it up with some power steering fluid every oil change. *if this were the case it wasn’t me* I’m thinking the previous owner just spent too much time on the salty roads in the winter and then let the snow, ice, salt and sand just sit there and eat away at it.


I found this “gem” when I removed the front sway bar. There’s a TSB about this mounting area completely rusting out on some GM trucks/SUV’s and needing a new bracket welded on. Luckily mine wasn’t there quite yet. I did find it odd that the front sway bar bushing was installed with the slit facing backwards.


*Thanks guys! I appreciate the info, guidance and feedback.

 

[swathdiver]

Awesome bud…Thanks! And regarding the other message - I don’t know what you’re talking about, someone at the front desk told me the price markdown.

How do the Coil Spring Sets compare to what I have originally?

I’m also seeing GM p/n 20842473
This is the original coil which was then superseded by GM 25909352 correct? Oddly enough the original coil is available, was there a recall or some issue with that coil?

Ok. Thanks. If I can’t find a new set that’s the direction I was leaning towards, as opposed to an aftermarket set. Question is, can I find a used set of the same coils in decent shape. I already have a new set of the OEM shocks on hand.



Yes sir. Full front suspension replacement.
- Upper and Lower Control Arms
- Inner and Outer Tie Rods
- Struts/Shocks
- Coil Springs
- Bellows, Insulators, Mounts…etc
- Sway Bar (brackets, bolts, bushings)
- End Links

Shocks are not far from giving out.

Coil Springs driver and passenger side each have approx a 3” long by 1/8-1/4” deep rust crack on opposite ends of the bottom portion of the coil and are turning to dust…ready to go at anytime. Almost makes me leery working around them, I’ve been really easy lowering the Jack.

Control arm bushings are dry rotted and one of the ball joint boots is blown (I’m 99% sure was from the shop who did my alignment. I swear someone used a needle greaser but I can’t prove it. I know for sure that both boots were fine when I took it in there, but when I got home the grease I found spewing out and slung on everything in the passenger wheel housing was a different color than what I use. And not a different color as in darker used grease, as in: red vs green).

End Links were in “ok” shape, but might as well be replaced while I have the sway bar out.

Sway Bar has a similar issue on either end of it similar to the coils. Almost like someone lubed it up with some power steering fluid every oil change. *if this were the case it wasn’t me* I’m thinking the previous owner just spent too much time on the salty roads in the winter and then let the snow, ice, salt and sand just sit there and eat away at it.

View attachment 349305View attachment 349306
I found this “gem” when I removed the front sway bar. There’s a TSB about this mounting area completely rusting out on some GM trucks/SUV’s and needing a new bracket welded on. Luckily mine wasn’t there quite yet. I did find it odd that the front sway bar bushing was installed with the slit facing backwards.


*Thanks guys! I appreciate the info, guidance and feedback.

I snapped the head off one of those bolts on mine and took me a long time to get it drilled out. Use plenty of anti-seize when you put it back together.

As for the springs, the part numbers are often superseded when a new vendor starts providing them.

Have you seen my parts chart? I can provide it if you like. Since yours is a Denali, the springs and shocks are different but you know what numbers you need already for yours.

When we did ours, the insulators front and rear were plumb wore out as well, they could not be re-used and probably would have created some weird noises had we done so.

 

[alpha_omega]

Tonight’s latest development was a click-no-crank after hitting the car wash. I did not clean under the hood, but I did work ******* the wheel wells to dislodge a bunch of hard clay.

I could hear a loud click at each attempt, but no crank. Raised the hood to let it dry and spent a few minutes looking for an implement that I could use to bang on the starter without laying in all the wet mud under it. Cranked on the first try after a 3-5 minute wait. Never touched a thing.

What’s the top two suspects? I need to procure and carry spares because if she won’t crank in the outback it’s a big deal. Battery is a new AGM. Cables *look* good.

I‘m thinking starter and starter relay? Although in a pinch as long as the starter is good I can crank it with a jumper cable.

If it's old, then it's a good idea to just replace it.
My s10s starter went out where i thought it was the battery cables.

Same problem!

Finally i did the starter.

I had a similar issue. But mine was stuck at the parking ramp of the hospital where my wife was working at the time.

Banged on the starter, cleaned the grounds. No go.

Replaced the starter. No go.

Relay was good, checked it with another of the same size.

Cleaned the battery terminals for good measure, and replaced the battery. No go.

Turned out to be the “littlefuse” 175 mega fuse connected to the battery cable.

 

[Bill 1960]

Tonight’s latest development was a click-no-crank after hitting the car wash. I did not clean under the hood, but I did work ******* the wheel wells to dislodge a bunch of hard clay.

I could hear a loud click at each attempt, but no crank. Raised the hood to let it dry and spent a few minutes looking for an implement that I could use to bang on the starter without laying in all the wet mud under it. Cranked on the first try after a 3-5 minute wait. Never touched a thing.

What’s the top two suspects? I need to procure and carry spares because if she won’t crank in the outback it’s a big deal. Battery is a new AGM. Cables *look* good.

I‘m thinking starter and starter relay? Although in a pinch as long as the starter is good I can crank it with a jumper cable.

So…. today I bought a new starter. Went to install it and the first thing I found was a loose cable on the starter. Really loose, like 2-3 turns on the nut. SMH. Tightened it up, can’t tell any difference in cranking speed.

This makes me think it’s not original. Also there’s no heat shield on top of the solenoid like I’ve seen in videos. Should that be in place on a 2008 model?
Here’s a pic from a vid showing the heat shield that clips on top of the solenoid.

Now I’m debating whether it’s good insurance to go ahead and stick the new one in, or just a waste of time and money.

 

[wsteele]

So…. today I bought a new starter. Went to install it and the first thing I found was a loose cable on the starter. Really loose, like 2-3 turns on the nut. SMH. Tightened it up, can’t tell any difference in cranking speed.

This makes me think it’s not original. Also there’s no heat shield on top of the solenoid like I’ve seen in videos. Should that be in place on a 2008 model?

Now I’m debating whether it’s good insurance to go ahead and stick the new one in, or just a waste of time and money.

If the cable was loose, I would return it NIB.

I think the OE have the heat shield. P/N - 12668713

 

[Doubeleive]

So…. today I bought a new starter. Went to install it and the first thing I found was a loose cable on the starter. Really loose, like 2-3 turns on the nut. SMH. Tightened it up, can’t tell any difference in cranking speed.

This makes me think it’s not original. Also there’s no heat shield on top of the solenoid like I’ve seen in videos. Should that be in place on a 2008 model?
Here’s a pic from a vid showing the heat shield that clips on top of the solenoid.

Now I’m debating whether it’s good insurance to go ahead and stick the new one in, or just a waste of time and money.

take that new starter back you solved your problem. wet-loose-cable no go.

 

[Doubeleive]

Awesome bud…Thanks! And regarding the other message - I don’t know what you’re talking about, someone at the front desk told me the price markdown.

How do the Coil Spring Sets compare to what I have originally?

I’m also seeing GM p/n 20842473
This is the original coil which was then superseded by GM 25909352 correct? Oddly enough the original coil is available, was there a recall or some issue with that coil?

Ok. Thanks. If I can’t find a new set that’s the direction I was leaning towards, as opposed to an aftermarket set. Question is, can I find a used set of the same coils in decent shape. I already have a new set of the OEM shocks on hand.



Yes sir. Full front suspension replacement.
- Upper and Lower Control Arms
- Inner and Outer Tie Rods
- Struts/Shocks
- Coil Springs
- Bellows, Insulators, Mounts…etc
- Sway Bar (brackets, bolts, bushings)
- End Links

Shocks are not far from giving out.

Coil Springs driver and passenger side each have approx a 3” long by 1/8-1/4” deep rust crack on opposite ends of the bottom portion of the coil and are turning to dust…ready to go at anytime. Almost makes me leery working around them, I’ve been really easy lowering the Jack.

Control arm bushings are dry rotted and one of the ball joint boots is blown (I’m 99% sure was from the shop who did my alignment. I swear someone used a needle greaser but I can’t prove it. I know for sure that both boots were fine when I took it in there, but when I got home the grease I found spewing out and slung on everything in the passenger wheel housing was a different color than what I use. And not a different color as in darker used grease, as in: red vs green).

End Links were in “ok” shape, but might as well be replaced while I have the sway bar out.

Sway Bar has a similar issue on either end of it similar to the coils. Almost like someone lubed it up with some power steering fluid every oil change. *if this were the case it wasn’t me* I’m thinking the previous owner just spent too much time on the salty roads in the winter and then let the snow, ice, salt and sand just sit there and eat away at it.

View attachment 349305View attachment 349306
I found this “gem” when I removed the front sway bar. There’s a TSB about this mounting area completely rusting out on some GM trucks/SUV’s and needing a new bracket welded on. Luckily mine wasn’t there quite yet. I did find it odd that the front sway bar bushing was installed with the slit facing backwards.


*Thanks guys! I appreciate the info, guidance and feedback.

ehh, you have a rust issue. I won't buy anything that has been east of kansas, bleh, get yourself a nice Texas rig no rust!