What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Krajniak]

Probably needs a new door lock actuator. Pretty common for those to go out.

you are correct it has power to it and all linkages are connected

 

[89Suburban]

yes gonna pull the rear passenger door apart today and figure out why my lock is not actuating.

I replaced my passenger side early on, and i have an intermittent issue on my driver side.

Passenger side got priority because it's harder to pay attention to.

Driver side, i just check that the lock actually locked.
Sometimes it won't unlock for me... lol

Passenger side, my hand came out looking like an angry cat had the sexy time with it.

Passenger side, i went with non oem via amazon.
Works fine, but it has different sound when closing the door.

I got a new old stock oem for the driver side.
It also came with the cable.

Amazon one did not.
Pita to get the stupid knock off clamp to clamp on the lock rod.

Get oem if possible.

Just a word of advice that will hopefully help y'all. Not only is getting that lock clamp off almost impossible without damaging it, putting it back on as almost as difficult. IMHO it's well worth the extra time of removing the door handle and disconnecting the rod at the handle so you can remove the actuator and rod assembly as a whole and work the rest of it on a workbench.

It takes a lot of pressure to properly re-seat the clamp back together and do it properly. There are 2 very small locating "teats" on the blind side of the clamp that can be very difficult to engage properly and they will get damaged very easily. Most important is to make sure you note the rod's position in the clamp to match it with the new one. It is threaded and you can mark the new rod to match.

I also suggest checking the amount of free play in the door handle before you remove anything it pops the door open. This can be adjusted with the positioning of the rod in the clamp as well to get rid of a "sloppy" or "loose" feeling.

I also suggest wire wheeling the rust and scale off ALL the rods attached to the actuator. Makes a big difference to make everything work much smoother! This also goes for cleaning the threads off the rod that goes into the clamp.

 

[Krajniak]

Just a word of advice that will hopefully help y'all. Not only is getting that lock clamp off almost impossible without damaging it, putting it back on as almost as difficult. IMHO it's well worth the extra time of removing the door handle and disconnecting the rod at the handle so you can remove the actuator and rod assembly as a whole and work the rest of it on a workbench.

It takes a lot of pressure to properly re-seat the clamp back together and do it properly. There are 2 very small locating "teats" on the blind side of the clamp that can be very difficult to engage properly and they will get damaged very easily. Most important is to make sure you note the rod's position in the clamp to match it with the new one. It is threaded and you can mark the new rod to match.

I also suggest checking the amount of free play in the door handle before you remove anything it pops the door open. This can be adjusted with the positioning of the rod in the clamp as well to get rid of a "sloppy" or "loose" feeling.

I also suggest wire wheeling the rust and scale off ALL the rods attached to the actuator. Makes a big difference to make everything work much smoother! This also goes for cleaning the threads off the rod that goes into the clamp.

already broke the clamp earlier trying to pull it off while still in the door to check voltage. solid advice thanks will keep it in mind when parts eventually get ordered and come in

 

[89Suburban]

already broke the clamp earlier trying to pull it off while still in the door to check voltage. solid advice thanks will keep it in mind when parts eventually get ordered and come in

It should come on the new actuator. These are the ones I have been buying.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2T6T3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

 

[Sparksalot]

Just a word of advice that will hopefully help y'all. Not only is getting that lock clamp off almost impossible without damaging it, putting it back on as almost as difficult. IMHO it's well worth the extra time of removing the door handle and disconnecting the rod at the handle so you can remove the actuator and rod assembly as a whole and work the rest of it on a workbench.

It takes a lot of pressure to properly re-seat the clamp back together and do it properly. There are 2 very small locating "teats" on the blind side of the clamp that can be very difficult to engage properly and they will get damaged very easily. Most important is to make sure you note the rod's position in the clamp to match it with the new one. It is threaded and you can mark the new rod to match.

I also suggest checking the amount of free play in the door handle before you remove anything it pops the door open. This can be adjusted with the positioning of the rod in the clamp as well to get rid of a "sloppy" or "loose" feeling.

I also suggest wire wheeling the rust and scale off ALL the rods attached to the actuator. Makes a big difference to make everything work much smoother! This also goes for cleaning the threads off the rod that goes into the clamp.

To make it even more fun, that little nylon clamp is different year to year, so the method to open it varies. I learned that between my two hoes.

 

[Krajniak]

It should come on the new actuator. These are the ones I have been buying.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2T6T3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

added to cart lol

 

[Krajniak]

Found 4 Stock 17s off of a 2010 Hoe with half tread on what i think is factory goodyears. 3 of the tire sensors are good. Also guy had 4 brand new MasterCraft Tires which are $155 each at walmart. Stole it all for $200. My stocks have 2 bad sensors so i saved money not having to buy any for those and they will become my winter wheels and tires so idc if the sensor are good or not.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Found 4 Stock 17s off of a 2010 Hoe with half tread on what i think is factory goodyears. 3 of the tire sensors are good. Also guy had 4 brand new MasterCraft Tires which are $155 each at walmart. Stole it all for $200. My stocks have 2 bad sensors so i saved money not having to buy any for those and they will become my winter wheels and tires so idc if the sensor are good or not.

Great deal.

 

[Rocket Man]

Found 4 Stock 17s off of a 2010 Hoe with half tread on what i think is factory goodyears. 3 of the tire sensors are good. Also guy had 4 brand new MasterCraft Tires which are $155 each at walmart. Stole it all for $200. My stocks have 2 bad sensors so i saved money not having to buy any for those and they will become my winter wheels and tires so idc if the sensor are good or not.

I like your wheel balancer. Cute.

 

[Krajniak]

I like your wheel balancer. Cute.

she is def daddy's girl the other 3 kiddos were inside with mommy. shes always glued to me when im home weather it be mucking the barn or playing on the playground and everything between