What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[m1dn]

Congrats,any pics of the cut?

Nooo, i was so tired and excited - i grabbed new bolts, cleaned up surface and threw some red sealant on the cut.
Put everything together, left 100 tools on floor, around 200 used gloves and went for a coffee.

Basically right here, this was the only "angle" you could get in there even with flex shaft on the rotary tool

 

[m1dn]

Good job man! Victory!

Actually that was @justchecking 's idea, I just got behind him and helped push it along.

What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Highly doubt it, it broke at 1ft of force, i have a feeling someone put a ****** gasket and ****** bolts. Hopefully i can get it out myself easy enough without having to drop tranny to then drop oil pan lol… Yeah no doubt someone has played with it,maybe Ill buy new bolts when I do mine.

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Also,

I can vouch for this welder, it kicks ass:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8R1ST4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Was looking at cheapos from HF to get some learning going on, newer welded in my life before.
Are they any "good"?
( Somehow during my learning process in last few years, every time i end up taking "this should be easy" job with "50$ worth of parts" i end up with 200-400$ worth of new tools. So now i need more storage solutions in the garage to fit boat over winter, all the tools + have space to put yukon sideways for any repairs )

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

I live in a HOA I hate them just as much I would start getting letters in the mail and can't park in the garage so I have no choice but to fix it anyway.

I live in an apartment complex, no way to figure out which car is leaking oil on any given day. There’s spots in every parking location so /shrug. I thought about having it fixed but shop wants $800 for an oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Hell I can replace the motor for $2k if I let the level drop low enough to hurt so ima let that bits leak…

 

[Doubeleive]

I live in an apartment complex, no way to figure out which car is leaking oil on any given day. There’s spots in every parking location so /shrug. I thought about having it fixed but shop wants $800 for an oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Hell I can replace the motor for $2k if I let the level drop low enough to hurt so ima let that bits leak…

this engine was replaced with a new crate motor and only has about maybe 70k on it now, trans is built for 500hp, both diff's were rebuilt, the only thing i paid for was the trans the rest was done under 3rd party warranty so i'm far ahead of the game on this thing. i just hate leaks it's a pet peeve of mine.

 

[m1dn]

I live in an apartment complex, no way to figure out which car is leaking oil on any given day. There’s spots in every parking location so /shrug. I thought about having it fixed but shop wants $800 for an oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Hell I can replace the motor for $2k if I let the level drop low enough to hurt so ima let that bits leak…

You give me hopes :joy:
I was thinking if gasket i replaced doesn't stop oil leak i might have to go hunt for oil pan gasket resealing or main seal ( although main seal seems dry under the cover ).

After reading your posts i think i'll stop hunting these once a week oil drips lol, based on thousands videos i went through, replacing engine seems like less work than resealing oil pan or fixing rear main seal

 

[Geotrash]

You give me hopes :joy:
I was thinking if gasket i replaced doesn't stop oil leak i might have to go hunt for oil pan gasket resealing or main seal ( although main seal seems dry under the cover ).

After reading your posts i think i'll stop hunting these once a week oil drips lol, based on thousands videos i went through, replacing engine seems like less work than resealing oil pan or fixing rear main seal

Dropping the oil pan is really no big deal on one of these, even with 4wd/awd. I've done it 4x over the past few years for cam swaps, oil pickup tube seal, etc. Drop the crossmember, drop the sway bar, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, remove the passenger side CV axle bolts and diff mount and let it hang down... boom, plenty of room to get the oil pan out. With the truck up on jack stands and with an air impact wrench in hand, I can drop the oil pan in under an hour. But my guess is that your leak isn't from the oil pan. It's much more likely to be coming from where the oil cooler lines go into the block above the oil filter, the valve covers, or the VLOM plate.

 

[Doubeleive]

Not a oil leak even though it looked like it wet, explains why it looked rusty, it's the right motor mount leaking the funky fluid out, time for another hummer mount

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

The Kooks 3" turn-down arrived today. I cut a 1.5" notch on the end so it would slide over the tailpipe, and clamped it on. I may have it welded on to get rid of the clamp.

View attachment 384229

Before.
View attachment 384230

Perfect size/shape for what I was looking for.
View attachment 384231

Looks good!

The 3.5" I cut and welded on to look as close to factory as possible...sans tumor looking resonator.

 

[Doubeleive]

it was even $13 cheaper than last time, already did the drivers side

 

[tungsten]

Was looking at cheapos from HF to get some learning going on, newer welded in my life before.
Are they any "good"?
( Somehow during my learning process in last few years, every time i end up taking "this should be easy" job with "50$ worth of parts" i end up with 200-400$ worth of new tools. So now i need more storage solutions in the garage to fit boat over winter, all the tools + have space to put yukon sideways for any repairs )

This is my rig. Works well. I wish I’d bought the 220v but at the time it was good enough.