What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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RooTBeeRthe1st

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I am more concerned putting the best quality shock on my vehicle than saving 5-10 dollars

I appreciate all the info, but honestly the more I read the more confused I am getting.

My biggest fear is ordering a set that will just not fit and that royally ***** me and wastes alot of time
2nd biggest fear is i install a set on the rear that creates a dangerous towing condition for my cross county trip next year

I just want the best regular shock ( no air adjust - no crazy modifications ) Just a factory set that will perform guaranteed above average results.

I honestly do not care who makes them.

I do not understand how how that 3rd shock will fit like the center as it looks completely differant ends ? yet both are supposed to fit ?

View attachment 386206
Amazon is not where you want to be looking for parts that actually fit your vehicle.
It's best to find the parts you actually want on something like RockAuto and then shop around for price and availability other places like Amazon if you don't like the price or slow shipping or what have you.
 

iamdub

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...could I straighten it by just turning the passenger tie rod in a turn and the driver's out a turn (or a half turn on each side, etc?) I know I could just take it back to the alignment shop and have them fix it, but if it's easy enough to do I'll just do it myself.

It's that easy. After I did my alignment, the last step was to straighten my steering wheel. I had the RST 22s on it at the time, so I just brought my wrenches with me on the test drive, turned into the parking lot at the community center and reached between the spokes to turn each side an equal number of times. Then tested and adjusted as necessary.

If the steering wheel is turned to the left, you wanna adjust the wheels to the left. Honestly, I'd try half or even quarter turns. Being at 11-11:30, it won't take much at all.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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It's that easy. After I did my alignment, the last step was to straighten my steering wheel. I had the RST 22s on it at the time, so I just brought my wrenches with me on the test drive, turned into the parking lot at the community center and reached between the spokes to turn each side an equal number of times. Then tested and adjusted as necessary.

If the steering wheel is turned to the left, you wanna adjust the wheels to the left. Honestly, I'd try half or even quarter turns. Being at 11-11:30, it won't take much at all.
A "good" shop will straighten the wheel for you as part of the alignment.
 
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A "good" shop will straighten the wheel for you as part of the alignment.
When I took it in the wheel would be slightly off towards the 1 o'clock position, which I told them (mind you, I replaced both sides inner and outer tie rods, along with both sides upper and lower control arms) and it was actually pulling a bit to one side.

I plan on waiting until I put the new wheels and tires on next week because the amount of wear that's on my tires currently from driving with bad ball joints and a bad inner tie rod for a couple months before I replaced them may be effecting it (I had all the parts but was waiting on my QuickJack lift to get delivered)

Like I said previously, I'm sure I can take it back to them and they'll fix it no problem, but if it's a simple 10 minute fix I'll save me the drive to the shop and back
 

Fubar0715

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Sure miss having my friend with a home shop and lift close by.... JEALOUS!!!!
So, while in Florida last week, visited my friend with the lift to address my o-ring pickup tube issues and the correct oil leaks that were happening. Put the 'hoe on the rack, pulled the pan and found a leaking cooler line gasket and pan gasket. While in there with the pan off, replaced the O-ring that was REAL flat (getting about 18lb pressure at idle) thus getting low pressure. I even got a CEL on the way to Florida. So much for Fleet maintenance, lots of gunk in the bottom of the pan, and fresh oil now with a PF63 filter. On my truck, the filter does not sit below the bottom of the pan and I am happy to report that I have about 22lbs at idle and run about 28 cruising at 70mph once full warmed up. I have to thank the folks on this forum with the knowledge and info about what to look for and fix for the leaks and pressure issues.
 
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RooTBeeRthe1st

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So, while in Florida last week, visited my friend with the lift to address my o-ring pickup tube issues and the correct oil leaks that were happening. Put the 'hoe on the rack, pulled the pan and found a leaking cooler line gasket and pan gasket. While in there with the pan off, replaced the O-ring that was REAL flat (getting about 18lb pressure at idle) thus getting low pressure. I even got a CEL on the way to Florida. So much for Fleet maintenance, lots of gunk in the bottom of the pan, and fresh oil now with a PF68 filter. On my truck, the filter does not sit below the bottom of the pan and I am happy to report that I have about 22lbs at idle and run about 28 cruising at 70mph once full warmed up. I have to thank the folks on this forum with the knowledge and info about what to look for and fix for the leaks and pressure issues.
Did you check the pickup tube o-ring? Those are known to fail also.
 

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