What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

I want a tint band one. Was that an option from the glass company?

glass shop can get them either way with or without, there may also be a option of dark blue or grey

 

[89Suburban]

Clamp for driver rear (firewall), or passenger front: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GHT9L4O?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Clamp for passenger rear, or driver's front: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OZVPC2G?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

I spent some time not working today, and watching 50 YouTube videos on the installation for both, and the drivers rear is going to be a joy. The other one should be easy.

Do the hard one first lol.

 

[89Suburban]

View attachment 401310

When your post shows up on facepoop
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It's tough being a rock star!!! Your paparazzi bait!

 

[Doubeleive]

It's tough being a rock star!!! Your paparazzi bait!

a retarded rock star, lol

 

[iamdub]

Who makes the best exhaust manifold stud kit? Sounds like people have been happy with the Dorman.. under $20 for a set!

I didn't know Dorman had stud kits at all. After some Googling, I see they have stud kits for Ford/Lincoln. I guess OE for the mod motors. Currently trying to find the thread sizes for these things. @gooffeyguy is a Ford guy and would probably know.

I've used Dorman #03413 (regular bolts) on a few trucks with stock manifolds and headers. I had to take my driver side head off a few months ago and the bolts came out and went back in with no problems. Although, my original bolts (all 12 were intact) came out with no problems after 200K miles. Can't go wrong for $8 (currently, on Amazon). For the peace of mind and just to say I did something, I'll probably replace them with ARP #134-1102 or 134-1202 for the fancier head.

*EDIT* Found 'em: Dorman #03430. Doesn't tell what grade of steel, though. Personally, unless I was planning on removing and reinstalling the manifolds a lot, I'd just use bolts.

*EDITED EDIT* Just saw @j91z28d1 already mentioned the mod motor OE studs.

 

[Charlie207]

Do the hard one first lol.

Yeah, I was going to do that swapping out the valve cover gasket. I figure reaching down over the top of the engine while having the coil packs and some other stuff removed will make it a little bit easier.

 

[mikez71]

*EDIT* Found 'em: Dorman #03430. Doesn't tell what grade of steel, though. Personally, unless I was planning on removing and reinstalling the manifolds a lot, I'd just use bolts.

*EDITED EDIT* Just saw @j91z28d1 already mentioned the mod motor OE studs.

Thanks, I'm leaning towards the dorman.. Thought I saw they were grade 2! somewhere.. I haven't heard anything bad about them.
As far as stainless go, my only worry is that if those broke, they could be harder to remove (ARP's cost $100 more, thought that's just a drop in the bucket)

Replacing my water pump/radiator/hoses/tees first to hopefully fix coolant leak (haven't smelled it inside lately, now only occasionally from outside when I open door, no drips) I know I should get the pressure tester, but figure all those parts need replacing with 200k on them, and there is decent chance it's one of those parts. (Keep praying it's not heater core which for a while I was convinced it was..)

Next block of maintenance will be exhaust studs, engine mounts, and tranny pan/filter/cooler..

 

[89Suburban]

Yeah, I was going to do that swapping out the valve cover gasket. I figure reaching down over the top of the engine while having the coil packs and some other stuff removed will make it a little bit easier.

Absolutely!

 

[George B]

glass shop can get them either way with or without, there may also be a option of dark blue or grey

I asked and they agreed to install one with a tinted brow.

 

[Doubeleive]

I asked and they agreed to install one with a tinted brow.

they just order them from the local supplier with or without it's no big deal. price should be the same as well