What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[89Suburban]

meh . sore subject.... drove to NYC to pick it up & turned out to have a lot of shady questionable kinda red flags that i wanted to ignore but glad i didnt ... i walked away & drove back home in my POS ford that doesnt have reverse & cried.

the salesguy tried to tell me the loan came back & i actually needed 30K down( i had a cosigner wtih 800). when i had left to drive there my down was 8K + my POS ford. so idk how that changed considering the loan was already secured. my brain was like "yeah sell everything" but i walked away. def cried about it. but happy i did today.


looking at 22s/23s ... i wouldnt have been able to deal with not having the digital dash, anyway.

Good to see you back at it sister.

 

[Just Fishing]

Took the tahoe out to my little patch of worthless desert and had a decent time.

Going from the jeep wrangler to the tahoe really shows how much more power and how much more comfortable it is.

On the way up there i noted something that keeps showing its ugly head.

Oil pressure fluctuating after several hours of highway driving.

I always assumed it was my stupid lifters sucking the oil pan dry and me getting some air in there.

Adding a little extra oil seemed to reduce it but then i notice a lower overall oil pressure after hours of driving, and less pressure rise.

Then while hauling the boat home, i discussed the issue with the father in law since it started happening.

Later youtube suddenly suggested a video explaining that over filling the pan in an ls can result in lower oil pressure due to foaming.


So i figured I'll bite, time to change the oil and switch to synthetic anyways.

So changed the oil,
And i didn't hit the top full line on the fill this time around.
Instead i targeted right in the middle of the full area.

Result was much better oil pressure and better oil pressure rise!!

Doing driving around the issue disappeared completely.

Until yesterday.
Right at the end of a two hour drive at anout 2k rpm the oil pressure started fluctuating.

Sitting a little over 40 on the gauge, it would dip down under it a bit, then go back over 40, sit there for a bit and then do it again.

Downshift to get the rpm back up and the pressure rise was good and solid, but back down and it returned?!?

I think its time for me to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge on one of the ports on the side of the block so i can see if it's doing it on both gauges...

I also got the bright idea to stop for a bit, let the oil settle with the engine off, but not long enough to allow the engine to cool off to see if that helped.

The answer was nope.

I also noticed it seems to happen when my voltage is up past the 14v mark...

So I'm not ruling out a possible alternator issue that shows up after several hours of driving...

I love the tahoe, but i also want it to catch fire sometimes... lol

On a happy note, it's fkn quick in those canyons.
I'm still loving the 6.0

 

[Just Fishing]

Fixed my headlight.
Found the plastic tab was broken, so a little youtube to tell me how to squeeze the housing out.

Plastic welder to melt in some metal clips, and a ziptie to melt into the repair to give it a little extra.

 

[Just Fishing]

Also how much voltage is too much voltage from the alt?

I'm getting about 14.89 - 15.03v just doing a quick check.

 

[89Suburban]

Got to get this heap inspected tomorrow. I have to pull the Range device for a week to clear the emissions readiness monitors b/s. SOB used 1 1/2 qts of oil in that time. And I only had a few ounces in the catch can. So it's blowing it out the exhaust on V4 mode. Hate this sht.

 

[Sparksalot]

Also how much voltage is too much voltage from the alt?

I'm getting about 14.89 - 15.03v just doing a quick check.

I’ve noticed voltage in the same range in thecopcar at times with the Scangauge.

 

[Just Fishing]

I’ve noticed voltage in the same range in thecopcar at times with the Scangauge.

Doing some google searching, i think it's totally normal.

I have an oil pressure gauge already installed for the transmission and transmission cooler lines.

Probably time to hijack one of those to see of it's an actual problem or not.

 

[denalilex]

so whats up with the suspension? if it is throwing codes you might want to use a scanner that can ready body codes

i replaced everything with stock - fronts, rears. compressor. i originally was not going to replace the compressor & opt to rebuild but even i - the self proclaimed rebuild queen (some may argue cheap. i prefer frugal, + it has 300k so anything i don’t have to drop a stack on - i try not to) can’t do much with a pile of rust. so i bought a new oem one .

i have an autel maxisys mini with current , active subscription & updated as recent as today. it can pull all codes & perform all functions of the tech2 short of programming modules as i don’t have a j2453.

im getting codes C0575, C0590, C0580 - all but driver left damper actuator circuit open. i’ve checked all fuses, the relays, the ALC relay under the fuse box. i have a p200 power probe that can do all electronic stuff. i tested the relays with that. they are functioning.

the only thing i’m curious about is the possibility of a delete for the auto ride being installed prior to me. if so i can’t find it. i don’t have any codes for service ride control & never have. i should absolutely have had them since my suspension system was a rust encompassing facade made to look like a suspension system.

everything is brand new. i’m lost. help

when i active test - the dampeners get no reading.

 

[denalilex]

wrong spot

 

[denalilex]

i replaced everything with stock - fronts, rears. compressor. i originally was not going to replace the compressor & opt to rebuild but even i - the self proclaimed rebuild queen (some may argue cheap. i prefer frugal, + it has 300k so anything i don’t have to drop a stack on - i try not to) can’t do much with a pile of rust. so i bought a new oem one .

i have an autel maxisys mini with current , active subscription & updated as recent as today. it can pull all codes & perform all functions of the tech2 short of programming modules as i don’t have a j2453.

im getting codes C0575, C0590, C0585 - all but driver left damper actuator circuit open. i’ve checked all fuses, the relays, the ALC relay under the fuse box. i have a p200 power probe that can do all electronic stuff. i tested the relays with that. they are functioning.

the only thing i’m curious about is the possibility of a delete for the auto ride being installed prior to me. if so i can’t find it. i don’t have any codes for service ride control & never have. i should absolutely have had them since my suspension system was a rust encompassing facade made to look like a suspension system.

everything is brand new. i’m lost. help

when i active test - the dampeners get no reading.

im gonna move this to my own thread brb