I just took a look at the diagrams, yeah it's basically a completely different hvac unit in the hybrids. there's it's own 4 pages of diagrams just for it. looks like it might have one more temp sensor and a few more control outputs for extra electric water pumps, 3 speed cooling fans and the electric ac compressor gets a pwm speed control for the compressor rpm. plus a few more odds and ends.
I'll park it in the shade one day with the windows down and let all the Temps equalize. see if I can find one that's off compared to the rest. wouldn't surprise me, but it also wouldn't surprise me if they just did a bad job program it haha. to focused on run time in auto stop vs idling. I have in the past noticed the ac rpm is much lower when stopped than it is when rolling which I thought was weird at the time, I thought maybe trying to mimic a engine driven compressor but other electric compressors I've since looked at data from don't do that.. they adjust speed by pressures needed.
maybe another side effect of gm basically putting a 90s technology nickel metal hydride prius battery in a full size suv and then struggling to make it last 8 years. still feel that was down fall of this truck. if they would have used better in house battery development going on at the same thing frame, these would sill be a thing and getting 30mpg around town.
/rant
you shouldn't have to do that, in the tech2 there is a function to check the sensors/actuators and it just shows "actual" VS "commanded" the outside temp doesn't matter
it goes by what is being commanded and what it is reading inside. I mean I guess if it's -40 out and you are trying to get a halfway decent reading it could throw it off I guess.
windows should be closed because it is reading the inside "controled" environment, rolling the windows down is going to throw another variable in.
the "auto" function reads data off of the headliner and duct sensors, so that's what you should be monitoring once you have established that the actuators are working properly.
there are several small "thermistors" inside the duct's in various locations but one of those being bad is likely rare but easily tested with a blow drier and ohm meter.
more of a PITA to find those than anything, your headliner sensors are going to be the most problematic they have a little fan inside and get worn/dirty.
I would set it for like 77 and then let it get all warmed up with the windows up (for like 15 minutes of driving at least) and then go thru with the tech2 and check each one actual/commanded.
