What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Charlie207]

did you break the clip off? you should have to reach inside the splash guard with a 10mm and loosen the bolt up to get them out (each side)
View attachment 446278

That's a good question. I didn't have to undo any lower bolts to remove the housings, which also means the shop who messed with them last year didn't either.

 

[Doubeleive]

That's a good question. I didn't have to undo any lower bolts to remove the housings, which also means the shop who messed with them last year didn't either.

it's not a critical part but does help keep them aligned and from wiggling around while driving, if the piece is still there inside and is just broken off you can try pulling the lights out and the broken piece and try some gorilla glue, if there is room you could drill some small holes and use a short dowel with the glue to make it more secure. cheaper fix than new $200-300 housings. gorilla glue is awesome stuff water doesn't affect it and it holds like crazy.

 

[Tonyrodz]

That's a good question. I didn't have to undo any lower bolts to remove the housings, which also means the shop who messed with them last year didn't either.

Or they're the ones who broke them.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Replaced headlight bulbs to help melt the ice/snow over the winter. LEDs are great, but don't produce heat.

Also, replaced both rear O2 sensors with some GM (NTK manf.), and swapped in a new transmission mount while I was under there... preventative maintenance.

I picked up some new oil g a filter, but will wait until I hit 5k miles to change it.



Not sure about Tahoe, but Yukon lights are quick/easy to pop out, contrary to whatever crack the shop was smoking the last time they quoted me an hour's labor to do, for one side. It took 5 minutes to do both front bulbs.

Tahoe headlights are a PAIN IN THE ASS!!! its terrible haha. and there is basically zero clearance behind them for anything. Doing a retrofit was a pain, but worth it

 

[Grady_Wilson]

This is the tool to remove LS crank pulls/harmonic balancers, after you blast the bolt out.

Orion Motor Tech Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit, Adjustable 3-Jaw Puller Set for Removing Harmonic Dampers & Balancers, 3-Jaw Pulley Puller Set Compatible with Chevy GM Chrysler Cadillac Ford More

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a.co

AutoZone also rents it, but they call it a Chrysler pulley tool. Same thing.

Very handy info, thanks.

 

[Runfor5]

Orion Motor Tech Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit, Adjustable 3-Jaw Puller Set for Removing Harmonic Dampers & Balancers, 3-Jaw Pulley Puller Set Compatible with Chevy GM Chrysler Cadillac Ford More
https://a.co/d/h86p8JC

AutoZone also rents it, but they call it a Chrysler pulley tool. Same thing.

EDIT: For install, I used a 1/2" torque wrench that went up to 250 lb/ft. on an ARP bolt set to 235lb/ft. in one hand, and jammed a long breaker bar through the spokes of the balancer in the balancer in the other hand, and just push/pulled until it went "click" 2x.

Thanks for all this! Great info. For $28 i don't mind buying the removal tool myself, can pass around to relatives too for their own trucks.
Those torque specs you used on this same ARP bolt too I'm assuming?
I have that same exact torque wrench lol, so will use this same method once getting around to it.

 

[Charlie207]

Very handy info, thanks.

Additionally, this set from HF is perfect for pulling the lower timing chain sprocket from the crankshaft.

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html

Also, circling back to the harmonic balancer, once you pull it off you don't need a special tool to get it back on. Just heat the center section up with a torch (even a blue propane worked fine) for a solid 2-3 minutes, and then quickly jam it on. (It won't hurt the timing cover seal one bit.)

After that it should be on enough to use an old crank bolt (or just reuse the ARP bolt) to zip it in with a 1/2“ impact, then finish with a torque wrench, although I've seen lots of cases when people just crank the ARP bolt on until it stops spinning.

 

[Charlie207]

Thanks for all this! Great info. For $28 i don't mind buying the removal tool myself, can pass around to relatives too for their own trucks.
Those torque specs you used on this same ARP bolt too I'm assuming?
I have that same exact torque wrench lol, so will use this same method once getting around to it.

Yes the ARP crank bolt spec is 235 ugga-duggas. The nice thing is that you can reuse the bolt over and over again.

 

[mikez71]

Comparison of factory driver mirror defroster vs kool vue passenger mirror. Just dew droplets, but that is how it looks with frost as well..

 

[Grady_Wilson]

With the single digit weather, I have developed a squeak from the drive belt tensioner.
Ordered a kit that has both belts, tensioner and idler.
RA had a Gates kit for $104 so I ordered that one.
Gates belts and hoses have always been good to me.