What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[NGAneer]

I also installed a 42" 800W curved LED light bar behind the grill and wired it up to my, previously unused (due to factory recall), heated washer fluid switch on the dash:
View attachment 185995

Here are some pics with the grill and bumper off:
View attachment 185996
In this pic ^^^ you can see the light bar and the new oil cooler on the passenger side, the bigger trans cooler is in the center.

View attachment 185997
This pic ^^^ shows the clearance between the light bar and the headlights.
View attachment 185998
The curved light bar fits behind the grill without any trimming necessary.

Where did you mount the switch for the light bar? Thinking about something similar.

 

[kbuskill]

Where did you mount the switch for the light bar? Thinking about something similar.

Repurposed the non-functional heated washer fluid button. It is a momentary switch so a latching relay is required to use the button unless you are using it for something like a horn.

The only "flaw" in doing it this way is that when the ignition is in the off position the amber LED indicator light turns on, but with the key in the on position it functions flawlessly as intended, (turns on with the light bar and off with the light bar). The LED indicator turns on and off via a ground trigger (wire gets a ground it turns on wire looses ground it turns off) and I guess it is pulling a ground through the solenoid of my light bars relay when the ignition power is removed from it. My guess is the ignition wire I tapped into that went to the heated washer fluid connector must somehow become a ground in the BCM when the key is off.

If anyone has any suggestions I would be glad to listen. I thought about putting a diode on the ignition lead into the relay's solenoid but I am not 100% sure that would fix it.

Other than that, it is an LED and I seriously doubt it being on when the key is off is going to drain my battery... I could just disconnect that wire that makes the indicator light up but I like being able to know if my light bar gets accidentally turned on in the day time.

 

[NGAneer]

View attachment 186081
Repurposed the non-functional heated washer fluid button. It is a momentary switch so a latching relay is required to use the button unless you are using it for something like a horn.

The only "flaw" in doing it this way is that when the ignition is in the off position the amber LED indicator light turns on, but with the key in the on position it functions flawlessly as intended, (turns on with the light bar and off with the light bar). The LED indicator turns on and off via a ground trigger (wire gets a ground it turns on wire looses ground it turns off) and I guess it is pulling a ground through the solenoid of my light bars relay when the ignition power is removed from it. My guess is the ignition wire I tapped into that went to the heated washer fluid connector must somehow become a ground in the BCM when the key is off.

If anyone has any suggestions I would be glad to listen. I thought about putting a diode on the ignition lead into the relay's solenoid but I am not 100% sure that would fix it.

Other than that, it is an LED and I seriously doubt it being on when the key is off is going to drain my battery... I could just disconnect that wire that makes the indicator light up but I like being able to know if my light bar gets accidentally turned on in the day time.

Gotcha. I don't have that button. I'll probably be going with a push button inside one of the 12v plug locations.

 

[kbuskill]

Gotcha. I don't have that button. I'll probably be going with a push button inside one of the 12v plug locations.

Like this:


Mine is a 3 way switch so I can control my front and rear camera while on the move.

 

[tsuintx]

Drove wife's Tahoe a few hours yesterday and the Rosen seems to be working great and sounds great. Maps are a bit outdated, so I need to check and see if there are any updates available. Free would be nice...

The only beef I have so far is that the screen has quite a bit of glare in bright sunlight, especially when using navigation, and you really have to look into it to see what's going on on the screen.

 

[iamdub]

Does this look like detonation to anyone else?

Oh snap. I didn't even notice what looks like porcelain missing from around the electrode.

Either detonation or too high of temperatures. That buildup could lead to hotspots, which could lead to overheating of the plug and/or detonation.

 

[Fosscore]

Suburban may be needing a new battery soon.

Looks to be an OEM AC Delco
with 665 CCAs.

Should I go with more CCAs or keep the same? Only Florida weather for the Suburban. No winter season.

I looked at Advanced, AutoZone, O’Reily’s and the prices and warranties seems to be comparable.

Wondered what you guys were putting in as a replacement?

 

[kwOH]

Suburban may be needing a new battery soon.

Looks to be an OEM AC Delco
with 665 CCAs.

Should I go with more CCAs or keep the same? Only Florida weather for the Suburban. No winter season.

I looked at Advanced, AutoZone, O’Reily’s and the prices and warranties seems to be comparable.

Wondered what you guys were putting in as a replacement?

Think I took my NBS to Walmart and had them throw in their brand battery for like $80.

 

[kwOH]

Just had the same type of accident in June and my estimate was very much the same ($900-950). Replacement bumper from RockAuto.com was $160, painted by local shop was $375. Put in in myself after they painted. Looks 100% and pocketed the rest. Just something to think about.

Thats how its done.

 

[iamdub]

Suburban may be needing a new battery soon.

Looks to be an OEM AC Delco
with 665 CCAs.

Should I go with more CCAs or keep the same? Only Florida weather for the Suburban. No winter season.

I looked at Advanced, AutoZone, O’Reily’s and the prices and warranties seems to be comparable.

Wondered what you guys were putting in as a replacement?

I'm a fan of Interstate and O'Reilly's Super Start batteries (made by Deka/East Penn). Unless you're modded and drawing higher loads when cranking, more cranking amps isn't necessary. But if you find a direct replacement battery that happens to have a few more CAs for the same or similar price, it wouldn't hurt to have the extra juice available. Just don't go lower than what's spec'ed for your truck. Also, you're likely not even getting the full CAs of your stock battery if you don't have the Big 3 upgrade.