What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[PG01]

I’ve never done this myself. Aren’t the tranny pans on these GM trucks notoriously difficult to get off because of the exhaust pipe or something?

Nbs trucks 01-06 are easier than nnbs 07-14
Exhaust is tighter to pan but not that hard imo

 

[PG01]

Can I replace it without jacking up the SUV? Just laying on the ground???

If you can fit , yup

 

[PG01]

I need to do that. I assume the transmission pan doesn't have a drain plug. So I'll have to add one.

Nope only nbs had drain, they were suck anyway... always stripped out

 

[Doubeleive]

once you have the pan out you can add a drain dorman sells a kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392295281380

 

[PG01]

once you have the pan out you can add a drain dorman sells a kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392295281380

And let me guess..... you’re selling them.....lmao

 

[Doubeleive]

And let me guess..... you’re selling them.....lmao

lol, yes shameless self promotion

 

[R3cord303]

Well- after more back and fourth I’m not doing an afm delete. Just getting a new long block that doesnt have afm, and its got a ‘step up cam’ for towing. Gonna have that replaced next week, have it tuned, and then I have to drive down to SoCal. Should be fun. Kinda down to the wire though.

 

[the_tool_man]

once you have the pan out you can add a drain dorman sells a kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392295281380

On my last truck I just drilled and welded in a bung I bought off the rack at the local car parts place. It came with a gasketed bolt, just like OEM. Simple. Worked great.

The one you linked protrudes above the bottom of the pan, so it doesn't fully empty. If fluid still dumps out when I remove the pan, there's no point in the drain. And that nut doesn't appear to be a locking nut. If it vibrates loose, you leak fluid. If the plug has enough removal torque to overcome the retention torque of the nut, it spins, rendering it useless. It's a no for me.

 

[Doubeleive]

On my last truck I just drilled and welded in a bung I bought off the rack at the local car parts place. It came with a gasketed bolt, just like OEM. Simple. Worked great.

The one you linked protrudes above the bottom of the pan, so it doesn't fully empty. If fluid still dumps out when I remove the pan, there's no point in the drain. And that nut doesn't appear to be a locking nut. If it vibrates loose, you leak fluid. If the plug has enough removal torque to overcome the retention torque of the nut, it spins, rendering it useless. It's a no for me.

Point taken, it has a drain bolt with a o-ring like a oil pan drain bolt which is smaller so it won't over torque the larger part of the adapter, not everyone has a welder it's a slow seller but no complaints from anyone.

 

[the_tool_man]

...not everyone has a welder ...

What!?! If you don't have a welder, you should at least get a weldor (a friend who welds).

I wasn't saying it's bad. It's just not for me. I'd like it better if it used a prevailing-torque lock nut to keep it from loosening. You can't use thread locker, either. It'll make the sealing washer crack. Don't ask me how I know that.