What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

I need to buy a lottery ticket. I removed my appliques to color match them, and noticed this:

View attachment 273192

I've had the spoiler off a few times to deal with the rubber flap coming loose. I guess I didn't tighten this nut all the way:

View attachment 273193

What are the odds that it would hang right there perfectly balanced, vs. dropping through the taillight area onto the ground? It looks like I staged it, lol.

put some thread lock on it this time, I had to do that with one of the rear seat arm rest bolts kept coming loose

 

[Just Fishing]

Well, i removed the jack from the engine hoist, laid it on the side, pulled the jack piston out of there and stacked in some O rings.
on the tip there is a wiper looking seal that looked good overall, but I'm sure it's just old.
So i stacked a little o ring on the far end, pushing the seal towards the tip.
Seemed to expand it a bit as there is a ledge to keep it on there...

A wee bit up the shaft has a second seal, I assume that one is to keep fluid from escaping.
It was pretty freakin flat.

I added a o ring on the end of that, seems to be successfully pushing down on the seal and making it a little thicker.

I had to grease it up pretty good to reinsert, but so far no more leaks.
And jacking it up seems to be much more solid now!

I'm still deciding if i want to trust it or not...

I ordered a new set of o rings from amazon the other day and received them today.
It actually had a exact match to the pump piston o-ring.
so i doubled those fkers up!
I had an AC green o ring before.
Much easer to insert.

got a bunch of conflicting information on how much fluid those rams should have as well.
in the end it seems that it's happiest being full when the jack is on it's side with the bleed/fill hole facing up.
Took a couple tries to get the air bled out, but it's running real nice now.
And jacking it up feels solid...

Now to see if it can lift stuff and not have it do weird stuff.


I'm also having fun fkn with this thing, putting off me actually tearing into the hoe...

The eventual plan is to buy this for it: https://www.harborfreight.com/8-ton-long-ram-airhydraulic-jack-56215.html

 

[bfourman]

Well FML.

Let me tell you doing valve springs in the truck is not fun........make sure you have the right tool. The tool I was using worked great for the first 6 valve spring on bank 1 and 2 is fine........but cylinders 7 and 8......no chance in hell.

I ordered the other toll via Amazon and will be able to finish tomorrow.

Oh, and the tool I used only worked after I milled it so there was proper clearance to install the valve spring retainer keepers. I'll port up some pics in a bit.

Either way, experience, a level head and knowing when to tap out is the key to success. Plus having the valve spring pop out of the tool twice was enough for me to call it a day. Safety first.

I'm also interested in what tool you used, I'm going to be doing this soon. I was looking at this one, but any advice would be appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0876N4VM...abc_35SYJHJ9Q7YRDMWHQ8VP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Doubeleive]

I need to buy a lottery ticket. I removed my appliques to color match them, and noticed this:

View attachment 273192

I've had the spoiler off a few times to deal with the rubber flap coming loose. I guess I didn't tighten this nut all the way:

View attachment 273193

What are the odds that it would hang right there perfectly balanced, vs. dropping through the taillight area onto the ground? It looks like I staged it, lol.

and yer truk is dirty,

 

[Rocket Man]

I'm also interested in what tool you used, I'm going to be doing this soon. I was looking at this one, but any advice would be appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0876N4VM...abc_35SYJHJ9Q7YRDMWHQ8VP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You don’t want that one, you have to pry it down so you’ll be doing that with one hand while you mess with keepers with the other. Use one like I showed, I’ve done 2 engines with dual springs which are the hardest to do. It worked great. You have great control of the spring as you tighten the nut down on the stud.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202314308259

 

[the_tool_man]

put some thread lock on it this time, I had to do that with one of the rear seat arm rest bolts kept coming loose

Nope. Anaerobic thread locker makes plastic brittle and crack. Learned that one the hard way.

 

[Just Fishing]

got my hummer engine mounts today...

 

[Rocket Man]

Nope. Anaerobic thread locker makes plastic brittle and crack. Learned that one the hard way.

Isn’t that a metal stud and nut?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Nope. Anaerobic thread locker makes plastic brittle and crack. Learned that one the hard way.

What part is plastic, the bolt or the nut?

If no threadlock, rub wax on the threads. I use a bow wax stick on threads I don't want loosening by vibrations

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[George B]

Isn’t that a metal stud and nut?

I think so. But a little silicone sealant would do the job too. At least the nut would stay there.