What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[George B]

I'm not after additional airflow per se. I've got the big fans on the radiator already. I'm thinking about the heat captured under the hood, and allowing for convection to happen.

How about a cowel type hood?

 

[Sparksalot]

How about a cowel type hood?

That would do it.

 

[Sam Harris]

How about a cowel type hood?

Mmm... cowl hood. Do want.

Of course, if you have a cowl hood, it’s mandatory that there be a supercharger underneath said cowl.

You’re welcome.

 

[1BADI5]

Got some center caps for the declass.......not a perfect fit as I expected.......I have a trick up my sleeve though.

I also have a set of black caps on the way too. I only got chrome to keep the PPV look

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I'm not after additional airflow per se. I've got the big fans on the radiator already. I'm thinking about the heat captured under the hood, and allowing for convection to happen.

Also because racecar!

 

[lowh07]

That would do it.

You could remove the black plastic cowl piece around the windshield wipers... might not look great but I’ve seen it done for ventilation

 

[Sparksalot]

You could remove the black plastic cowl piece around the windshield wipers... might not look great but I’ve seen it done for ventilation

The rear edge of the hood meets the metal cowl structure. Removing the gasket would get a small gap, but not much. The plastic wouldn't change it.

 

[lowh07]

The rear edge of the hood meets the metal cowl structure. Removing the gasket would get a small gap, but not much. The plastic wouldn't change it.

ah I guess I was thinking of the gasket. I heard Jeremy from Fasterproms mention it

 

[swathdiver]

Lower ball joints are being a pain to remove. Hammer didn't work. Heat didn't work. Pickle Forks didn't work. Now using a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight. Worked fine on a stuck upper ball joint but we have been grinding away on the tool to make it fit the lower ball joint and ran out of time. The girls are busy with their social schedules you know!

So at this point the struts and half shafts are out, calipers hanging on S-hooks and the engine oil cooler lines are disconnected but not removed. The front differential has been lowered but I think we're doing to pull it tomorrow to make more room. The front bumper cover and lights are off, we found the leak that the dealer said was not there, the lower connection on the condenser is leaking green oil everywhere. Bought an AC O-Ring and Seal kit from O'Reilly and had them refund me the condenser I ordered.

Bought a canopy from Harbor Freight and have that over the hood area in case it rains, all exposed connectors are pointed down too. Canopy secured on three corners with old brake rotors.

I forget to check and did not know that the lower control arm bolts and nuts are 15/16ths. 23mm too small, 24mm a little loose. Hopefully they'll come off tomorrow.

Still haven't gotten to the motor mounts or transmission oil cooler lines. Sure wish I was in my twenties again, all of this stuff would have been done already! The Good Lord is giving me patience but I keep wanting more.

 

[Bill 1960]

As soon as I’m done with crawling underneath this thing on a regular basis, I’ll be hosing down the underside with sheep dip (Fluid Film). I don’t want corrosion to get a foothold. I’ve been a long time user of FF with great results. However that doesn’t stop me from assessing other products. Last year I tried out some WoolWax, which is close to FF but goes on thicker. This project I’m going to try a Cosmoline product in some of the areas exposed to spray from the tires and see how it holds up. Literature indicates it will harden to a waxy consistency. FF never hardens and does get washed away from areas exposed to a lot of spray.