What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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08z71bgm

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So after a couple days of driving it with the H3 mount installed I can feel a bit of a vibration when in drive and stopped at a light sometimes. I think when the AC compressor is engaged is when I can feel it. When in park or while driving I don't notice it.

My wife couldn't notice it, but she doesn't drive it as much. It does feel much better when accelerating and no more thud when starting from a stop.

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I don’t feel jack after changing to the h3 LH mount. Idk how you feel vibration. Smooth for me.
 

08z71bgm

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Went and tried to remove the upper control arms (21mm for bolt and nut) with no joy. Sent a text to my daughter asking her to pick up a hardened socket and a reciprocating saw with some bi-metal blades. My youngest asks me how it's going and then took a stab at it, got it all done with minimal assistance from me! LOL Super Jaime to the rescue! Sent a text to her big sister telling her to cancel the saw and blades, the socket will still come in handy.

So that's where we are today. Have to decide on whether or not to drop the diff so we can raise the motor and change the motor mount or hire that job out to the professionals. Kids picked up the newly painted bumper cover from the dealer, they said it looked great, I'll look on the morrow.
Engine mount is easy. Don’t make more work for yourself. Remove the steering shaft coupler then the 3 chassis bolts and jack up the engine. If you want take the wheel off for more room. I got access to the two bolts closer to the firewall from the wheel well opening. Two front ones are easy from the top or laying on floor in front. No reason to remove the front diff. Did mine in 2 hours with rain and hand tools. My steering coupler was seized a bit so I had to use a welding hammer to slide it up.
 

swathdiver

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Engine mount is easy. Don’t make more work for yourself. Remove the steering shaft coupler then the 3 chassis bolts and jack up the engine. If you want take the wheel off for more room. I got access to the two bolts closer to the firewall from the wheel well opening. Two front ones are easy from the top or laying on floor in front. No reason to remove the front diff. Did mine in 2 hours with rain and hand tools. My steering coupler was seized a bit so I had to use a welding hammer to slide it up.

The control arms are out as is the wheel liner, I have seen guys remove the mount through the wheel well without removing the coupler. Where did you jack up the engine? From above or below?
 

08z71bgm

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The control arms are out as is the wheel liner, I have seen guys remove the mount through the wheel well without removing the coupler. Where did you jack up the engine? From above or below?
I have a z71 with the aluminum plate. I didn’t remove it. I put a 4x4 block under the pan near the oil filter and bell housing.

if you remove the liner maybe you can remove the mount from the wheel well. The issue from the top tho was getting to the third chassis bolt near the firewall. The angle is really tough unless you’re using more than one swivel.
 

the_tool_man

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So after a couple days of driving it with the H3 mount installed I can feel a bit of a vibration when in drive and stopped at a light sometimes. I think when the AC compressor is engaged is when I can feel it. When in park or while driving I don't notice it.

My wife couldn't notice it, but she doesn't drive it as much. It does feel much better when accelerating and no more thud when starting from a stop.

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My experience, exactly. I'm still running a bunch of injector cleaner through it, hoping that helps. And at 123k miles, it's probably about due for coils, plugs and wires. Still, overall the small vibration at idle is worth it, knowing the new mount won't rip in half.
 

the_tool_man

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Some of you are making the motor mount swap harder than you need to. It can be done completely from above if you pull the steering shaft. I used an engine hoist to lift the engine. But careful use of a jack works, too. Don't be afraid to cut off the heat shield on the old mount, which is in the way of the mount-to-block bolts. It took me 2 hours with help from a tall, long-armed buddy to reach the rear bolts.
 
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We will but not going to use the oil pan or balancer. Have to drop differential to get at that tab on the block. How did you raise the motor?
I used a jack under the drivers side exhaust just behind the cat. Actually rested the jack saddle where the rear of the cat bulges out, it sat in it pretty good.

I do have an engine hoist, but figured the jack was easier than pulling the hoist out then figuring a way or where to hook it.

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