What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[alpha_omega]

Oh well, it's all done and he's back on the road, sporting my beloved RSTs. It's okay, I'm working on some other wheels that I think I'll like better. They'll have some nearly-new (5K miles, I think?) Pirelli Scorpion Zeros on 'em.

I’m not sure if you’ve ever used them before, but Pirelli Scorpio Zeros are loud on an SUV our size and don’t last worth a damn.
They can make a mean street car tire, but SUV…not so much.

 

[alpha_omega]

Ok guys…I have a question. Any thoughts or ideas on keeping the sway bar/stabilizer bar from suffering failure resulting from Michigan winters?

The bars are formed, flattened, and a hole is punched for the sway bar links. At the end of the tube stock where it was cut and flattened, the “fold” started to rot out on my old one. I’m debating filling the end of this one with some JB weld vs an actual weld so the heat doesn’t warp the bar.

Thoughts, ideas, suggestions, comments, oh $h*ts or by the ways? Thanks…

 

[the_tool_man]

Ok guys…I have a question. Any thoughts or ideas on keeping the sway bar/stabilizer bar from suffering failure resulting from Michigan winters?

The bars are formed, flattened, and a hole is punched for the sway bar links. At the end of the tube stock where it was cut and flattened, the “fold” started to rot out on my old one. I’m debating filling the end of this one with some JB weld vs an actual weld so the heat doesn’t warp the bar.

Thoughts, ideas, suggestions, comments, oh $h*ts or by the ways? Thanks…

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I would think something thinner, that would wick into the space better, would last longer. Maybe some water-thin (or slightly thicker) epoxy resin? Epoxy's only enemy is UV, so under the truck it should hold up well.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Don’t worry, you’re not the only one with this issue. Bummer you couldn’t get it out of there with a set of vice grips. That’s the only thing that I’ve ever found to work besides welding a nut/bolt in place. View attachment 350862View attachment 350865

Yeah, I was out of time and over it. Figured it's been fine this long, oh well for now. Lol

 

[Rocket Man]

Ok guys…I have a question. Any thoughts or ideas on keeping the sway bar/stabilizer bar from suffering failure resulting from Michigan winters?

The bars are formed, flattened, and a hole is punched for the sway bar links. At the end of the tube stock where it was cut and flattened, the “fold” started to rot out on my old one. I’m debating filling the end of this one with some JB weld vs an actual weld so the heat doesn’t warp the bar.

Thoughts, ideas, suggestions, comments, oh $h*ts or by the ways? Thanks…

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Buy a solid sway bar. There’s a few aftermarket ones that work better and aren’t stamped hollow tubes like that. I’m running DJM but there are others, I think McGaughys makes a solid one too.

 

[5strmtrp]

Yesterday-

Borrowed these wheels to take the declads off to have the tires replaced. These were on his Tahoe when he bought it. We call them the "Uggos":

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They're 18". He had to trim about an inch off his lower ball joint stud, which included shaving some off the nut. I guess this is due to the Belltech spindles? Mine BARELY contacted the rim. I shaved the thickness of the death disc (1.14mm or 3/64") for adequate clearance:

View attachment 350758


Speaking of neighbor's Tahoe, he finally got it back from the body shop. I don't have any current pics, but it looks just the same as it did before the wreck, just with new paint and no badges or side molding. Pre-wreck:

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I had the exact same issue with the Belltech spindles that I got for my truck, after cutting the uca nut down to fit the rim over it I had nothing to hold the bolt in place when removing the nut. Returned the whole thing, I’m liking how it now sits and will be from here on out!

 

[iamdub]

I just spent $23 thanks to you. They have those at the hardware store to use but it would be good to have at home.

I thought he jacked it from Home Depot.

 

[iamdub]

I’m not sure if you’ve ever used them before, but Pirelli Scorpio Zeros are loud on an SUV our size and don’t last worth a damn.
They can make a mean street car tire, but SUV…not so much.

I haven't. A guy took them off his new F150 Limited in favor of all-terrains. I got them because they weren't a questionable Chinese brand, were the specific size I wanted (275/45-22), like new and cheap. My Tahoe is already "loud" and, once I get it back from Jenn, it'll be returned to weekend play duty. So, they should last me decently long enough just from the lack of driving it. Thanks for the heads up, though! I never bothered to research more than a few reviews on some online tire dealers. Now I won't be so surprised if I burn 'em down quicker than a set of GoodYears.

 

[iamdub]

Ok guys…I have a question. Any thoughts or ideas on keeping the sway bar/stabilizer bar from suffering failure resulting from Michigan winters?

The bars are formed, flattened, and a hole is punched for the sway bar links. At the end of the tube stock where it was cut and flattened, the “fold” started to rot out on my old one. I’m debating filling the end of this one with some JB weld vs an actual weld so the heat doesn’t warp the bar.

Thoughts, ideas, suggestions, comments, oh $h*ts or by the ways? Thanks…

View attachment 350870View attachment 350871View attachment 350872

I'm with @Rocket Man on getting a solid bar. But, you already bought that one so I doubt that's gonna happen.

I wouldn't trust J-B Weld (the "metal" one) to hold in such an environment. With the minute flexing the tube might experience, coupled with expanding and contracting from temperature changes, etc., I'd expect the J-B Weld to crack off of there. Since there is an opening, I'd try a plastic epoxy. Use a coarse grinding wheel or flap disc to rough up the edge to give it some tooth. Pack the epoxy on there so that it's pressed into the openings, then coat the tip. Work it until it starts to set up. Once it's set up enough to not drip, you could turn it so the edge is facing down to let gravity keep the epoxy on the end and connected with what you packed into the opening, like a tab. J-B Weld makes an excellent plastic epoxy that's only $6 for a tube. I think it'd have a better chance at remaining flexible enough to move with the bar.

The surefire way is to weld it. A weld along that edge shouldn't affect anything. Just pulse it and let it cool between each. Better yet, TIG it to minimize the heat.

 

[iamdub]

I had the exact same issue with the Belltech spindles that I got for my truck, after cutting the uca nut down to fit the rim over it I had nothing to hold the bolt in place when removing the nut. Returned the whole thing, I’m liking how it now sits and will be from here on out!

McG spindles FTW! At first, I didn't care for their upper stud design to mount the hub bearing. But then I realized why they did it that way and why they only drop 1.75". So, "I'll allow it" since it outweighs those cons. I've made peace with the stud design, though. The driver side broke twice and the passenger side broke once. After realizing that the torque spec is that important, I devised a way to accurately torque the studs rather than just guessing. No problems since.