What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[89Suburban]

Not a oil leak even though it looked like it wet, explains why it looked rusty, it's the right motor mount leaking the funky fluid out, time for another hummer mountView attachment 384323

Beats an agonizing oil leak mystery!!! Good job man!

 

[wjburken]

Not a oil leak even though it looked like it wet, explains why it looked rusty, it's the right motor mount leaking the funky fluid out, time for another hummer mountView attachment 384323

Crazy that you’d have a broken motor mount. It’s not like you push it to the limit…..oh wait. Yah, it makes sense.

 

[Doubeleive]

Crazy that you’d have a broken motor mount. It’s not like you push it to the limit…..oh wait. Yah, it makes sense.

Already did the driver's side so I'm actually surprised the other side broke I can't feel any difference tight as a bug in a rug, maybe because it happened recently it still has some strength left

 

[Doubeleive]

Beats an agonizing oil leak mystery!!! Good job man!

ya, I was kind of surprised to see that but relieved that it wasn't a oil leak this engine is too new for leaks, for as much as I beat on it though all I have had is one broken exhaust manifold bolt. I had just cleaned and pressure washed everything about 3 weeks ago so I figured any leak would be pretty easy to find

 

[Charlie207]

Already did the driver's side so I'm actually surprised the other side broke I can't feel any difference tight as a bug in a rug, maybe because it happened recently it still has some strength left

My guess is that the passenger mount compresses when you hammer the gas-pedal, vs. the obvious drive's-side lifting up.

Unless you have a rare counter-rotating crankshaft, RPO code: WFTLOL2

 

[Fubar0715]

My guess is that the passenger mount compresses when you hammer the gas-pedal, vs. the obvious drive's-side lifting up.

Unless you have a rare counter-rotating crankshaft, RPO code: WFTLOL2

Is that RPO for the Silverado? I think the code for the Tahoe/Denali/Esky is WOTLOL2 - I tell ya, this forum provides SOO much information/knowledge sharing that an average person would just be lost without!

 

[m1dn]

Dropping the oil pan is really no big deal on one of these, even with 4wd/awd. I've done it 4x over the past few years for cam swaps, oil pickup tube seal, etc. Drop the crossmember, drop the sway bar, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, remove the passenger side CV axle bolts and diff mount and let it hang down... boom, plenty of room to get the oil pan out. With the truck up on jack stands and with an air impact wrench in hand, I can drop the oil pan in under an hour. But my guess is that your leak isn't from the oil pan. It's much more likely to be coming from where the oil cooler lines go into the block above the oil filter, the valve covers, or the VLOM plate.

That's actually very good advice, thank you!
Valve covers might have never been off, it won't hurt taking them off, cleaning everything, replacing the gaskets and maybe even coils?
And check for any possible rocker slack

Will add to my todo list and get it done sometime next week mornings, Ontario teachers are on strike starting Friday, so that's few extra free hours for not taking kiddo to school

 

[Doubeleive]

My guess is that the passenger mount compresses when you hammer the gas-pedal, vs. the obvious drive's-side lifting up.

Unless you have a rare counter-rotating crankshaft, RPO code: WFTLOL2

ya I'm not out doing supercharged tricks in reverse like @Rocket Man lol

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I'm getting so itchy lately.
So many part laying around.

 

[Rocket Man]

ya I'm not out doing supercharged tricks in reverse like @Rocket Man lol

I’m surprised you haven’t tried it yet. Seems like you’d get bored doing WOT in forward only.