What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Charlie207

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Dropping the oil pan is really no big deal on one of these, even with 4wd/awd. I've done it 4x over the past few years for cam swaps, oil pickup tube seal, etc. Drop the crossmember, drop the sway bar, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, remove the passenger side CV axle bolts and diff mount and let it hang down... boom, plenty of room to get the oil pan out. With the truck up on jack stands and with an air impact wrench in hand, I can drop the oil pan in under an hour. But my guess is that your leak isn't from the oil pan. It's much more likely to be coming from where the oil cooler lines go into the block above the oil filter, the valve covers, or the VLOM plate.

I wish I had the courage to do a DoD delete with a new cam in my gravel/dirt driveway on my daily driver.
 

m1dn

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Dropping the oil pan is really no big deal on one of these, even with 4wd/awd. I've done it 4x over the past few years for cam swaps, oil pickup tube seal, etc. Drop the crossmember, drop the sway bar, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, remove the passenger side CV axle bolts and diff mount and let it hang down... boom, plenty of room to get the oil pan out. With the truck up on jack stands and with an air impact wrench in hand, I can drop the oil pan in under an hour. But my guess is that your leak isn't from the oil pan. It's much more likely to be coming from where the oil cooler lines go into the block above the oil filter, the valve covers, or the VLOM plate.
I LOVE this forum, thanks again!

Was taking off headlight to remove moisture and reseal and what do you know, decided to "touch" the 2 bolts that are reachable on the VLOM plate ( non-DOD engine ), the both bolts are loosy, did some tighty for now but will be taking off the top to clean it up and make sure all other bolts are TIGHT.
 

89Suburban

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I LOVE this forum, thanks again!

Was taking off headlight to remove moisture and reseal and what do you know, decided to "touch" the 2 bolts that are reachable on the VLOM plate ( non-DOD engine ), the both bolts are loosy, did some tighty for now but will be taking off the top to clean it up and make sure all other bolts are TIGHT.


I hope yours aint as bad as mine was. I had one or 2 tight bolts the rest were all fkn loose. Bleeding to death inside and out.

 

m1dn

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I hope yours aint as bad as mine was. I had one or 2 tight bolts the rest were all fkn loose. Bleeding to death inside and out.

Looks like these engines just go in the heat and love to leave marks everywhere they go so other "male" LSes can find them easily.

Did you have to do anything else besides cleaning it up and tightening the bolts?
 

89Suburban

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Looks like these engines just go in the heat and love to leave marks everywhere they go so other "male" LSes can find them easily.

Did you have to do anything else besides cleaning it up and tightening the bolts?

I had to replace the whole VLOM assembly because it is riveted together and you can't replace the gaskets on it. So make sure you do your homework parts searching. There are a few different gasket designs. The firs two I ordered didn't match. And I come to find out the gasket on mine is riveted into the VLOM assembly itself so I had to buy that instead and lost the money I spent on the damned gaskets because they would not accept them for a return. The things are pricey.

I will say once the VLOM was replaced with a new one it breathed some new life into the motor and ran MUCH better. I also had an issue on the first cold start with running rough and misfire codes. I revved the hell out of it out of frustration and it cleared right up. It's my gut feeling it took a while for the air to get purged out of the VLOM.

Also might as well replace the oil pressure sending unit and screen, and steam port gaskets while it is apart (2 in front and 2 in back.)
 

m1dn

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I had to replace the whole VLOM assembly because it is riveted together and you can't replace the gaskets on it. So make sure you do your homework parts searching. There are a few different gasket designs. The firs two I ordered didn't match. And I come to find out the gasket on mine is riveted into the VLOM assembly itself so I had to buy that instead and lost the money I spent on the damned gaskets because they would not accept them for a return. The things are pricey.

I will say once the VLOM was replaced with a new one it breathed some new life into the motor and ran MUCH better. I also had an issue on the first cold start with running rough and misfire codes. I revved the hell out of it out of frustration and it cleared right up. It's my gut feeling it took a while for the air to get purged out of the VLOM.

Also might as well replace the oil pressure sending unit and screen, and steam port gaskets while it is apart (2 in front and 2 in back.)
Do you have parts number still by chance?
Looking at Rockauto, it's hard to find VLOM or VLOM Gaskets for 2008 6.2 ( non-dod ), it lists different looking parts, mostly complete VLOM plates it seems

I guess intake manifold gaskets would be another good idea while i'm down there?
 

Doubeleive

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Do you have parts number still by chance?
Looking at Rockauto, it's hard to find VLOM or VLOM Gaskets for 2008 6.2 ( non-dod ), it lists different looking parts, mostly complete VLOM plates it seems

I guess intake manifold gaskets would be another good idea while i'm down there?
the non dod are flat i believe, the dod have ridges
 

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