What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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SpareParts

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I just saw one listed here last night locally w/56k on it $15,000 probably will be gone quick, has a couple little issue's but no deal breaker i can see, the dash is probably cracked so they avoided picturing it typical.......
I dunno. Paint on the driver's side doors looks off to me and the moldings are coming loose. The dash is for sure cracked above the dr side center vent. No pic of the DR seat where the rip usually is. The far right dash vent looks broke. The trailer hitch area looks repainted.
The Door paint might just be the camera? A guy needs to really go look at it and go over it real good. Might turn out to be a good buy.
 

Grady_Wilson

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Been driving Xl's and long bed pickups for 30+ years, no problems parking. Parking garages can be a little tight but you just take your time and it can be done, won't trust a Valet to do it though I'll park on the street instead
I have a CDL so it's not like I haven't driven large vehicles, it's just that a lot of parking lots are so small it's a pain to maneuver around in them.
Not only that, most people that do drive these larger vehicles don't know how to actually drive them and they make things worse.
 

Doubeleive

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I have a CDL so it's not like I haven't driven large vehicles, it's just that a lot of parking lots are so small it's a pain to maneuver around in them.
Not only that, most people that do drive these larger vehicles don't know how to actually drive them and they make things worse.
I have driven or operated dam near everything I have been a transfer driver, shuttle driver and a valet..... among other things and I am sure most valet are very capable drivers but I just don't trust them lol
my personal issue with considering or being a commercial driver is I just have a heavy foot
I am also very impressed when I see a guy driving a 53 footer flip a u turn from the turn lane into a 2 lane
not like the "swift" drivers I have seen literally drive into each other in a yard where there is 500 ft of open space on either side of them lol
 

Runfor5

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Didn't "do" anything per say but thanks to the fine folks on here I have gone ahead and ordered a new front crankshaft seal [296-02 GM OEM seal] and ARP harmonic balance bolt [234-2503 - link below too]. Noticed some dropping on the floor coming from the oil cooler + oil filter areas which annoyed me (new cooler lines I installed are <5k miles old), but when looking forward I noticed it stemming from the front and sure enough, the little sensor by the harmonic balance is all damp. I am assuming here that it's in fact, the front crankshaft seal and not the entire front cover... guess I'll see once I get in there though.

*Any recommendations on LS-based motor harmonic balance removal and install tools??

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TSB73S3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I also bought some new ARP 12-point exhaust manifold bolts [134-1202 - link below] for someday in the future when I'm feeling frisky and lucky to attempt removal of what's on there now :laughing1:
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5YSJ5U?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
 

kbuskill

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I have driven or operated dam near everything I have been a transfer driver, shuttle driver and a valet..... among other things and I am sure most valet are very capable drivers but I just don't trust them lol
my personal issue with considering or being a commercial driver is I just have a heavy foot
I am also very impressed when I see a guy driving a 53 footer flip a u turn from the turn lane into a 2 lane
not like the "swift" drivers I have seen literally drive into each other in a yard where there is 500 ft of open space on either side of them lol

SWIFT = Sure Wish I Finished Training!

Stevie Wonder's Institute For Trucking
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Realized the other day that chunks of foam are coming with me every time I get out of the car and I can see and feel metal springs now. I guess 200,000 miles was too much for the driver's seat. Bought a very expensive(relatively speaking) GM replacement foam and seat cover from some eBay seller in Phoenix who only has one of each in stock.
 

Charlie207

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Didn't "do" anything per say but thanks to the fine folks on here I have gone ahead and ordered a new front crankshaft seal [296-02 GM OEM seal] and ARP harmonic balance bolt [234-2503 - link below too]. Noticed some dropping on the floor coming from the oil cooler + oil filter areas which annoyed me (new cooler lines I installed are <5k miles old), but when looking forward I noticed it stemming from the front and sure enough, the little sensor by the harmonic balance is all damp. I am assuming here that it's in fact, the front crankshaft seal and not the entire front cover... guess I'll see once I get in there though.

*Any recommendations on LS-based motor harmonic balance removal and install tools??

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TSB73S3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I also bought some new ARP 12-point exhaust manifold bolts [134-1202 - link below] for someday in the future when I'm feeling frisky and lucky to attempt removal of what's on there now :laughing1:
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5YSJ5U?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
This is the tool to remove LS crank pulls/harmonic balancers, after you blast the bolt out.

Orion Motor Tech Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit, Adjustable 3-Jaw Puller Set for Removing Harmonic Dampers & Balancers, 3-Jaw Pulley Puller Set Compatible with Chevy GM Chrysler Cadillac Ford More


AutoZone also rents it, but they call it a Chrysler pulley tool. Same thing.
 

Charlie207

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Replaced headlight bulbs to help melt the ice/snow over the winter. LEDs are great, but don't produce heat.

Also, replaced both rear O2 sensors with some GM (NTK manf.), and swapped in a new transmission mount while I was under there... preventative maintenance.

I picked up some new oil g a filter, but will wait until I hit 5k miles to change it.

RLHMkWo.jpg

Not sure about Tahoe, but Yukon lights are quick/easy to pop out, contrary to whatever crack the shop was smoking the last time they quoted me an hour's labor to do, for one side. It took 5 minutes to do both front bulbs.

OlN0fsr.jpg
hNsPLiF.jpg

Labeled the LEDs to put back in after spring. Each bulb is clocked to "aim" the beam pattern.
3ztZYSt.jpg

Factory fart-snirfets, and the AT mount. All three came out with zero drama.

4U0dPKz.jpg

Buddy sent me some goodies from NC, so of course I payed myself with one.
xgH1nEJ.jpg
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Replaced headlight bulbs to help melt the ice/snow over the winter. LEDs are great, but don't produce heat.

Also, replaced both rear O2 sensors with some GM (NTK manf.), and swapped in a new transmission mount while I was under there... preventative maintenance.

I picked up some new oil g a filter, but will wait until I hit 5k miles to change it.

View attachment 446271

Not sure about Tahoe, but Yukon lights are quick/easy to pop out, contrary to whatever crack the shop was smoking the last time they quoted me an hour's labor to do, for one side. It took 5 minutes to do both front bulbs.

View attachment 446272
View attachment 446273

Labeled the LEDs to put back in after spring. Each bulb is clocked to "aim" the beam pattern.
View attachment 446274

Factory fart-snirfets, and the AT mount. All three came out with zero drama.

View attachment 446275

Buddy sent me some goodies from NC, so of course I payed myself with one.
View attachment 446276
did you break the clip off? you should have to reach inside the splash guard with a 10mm and loosen the bolt up to get them out (each side)
VILO.JPG
 

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