What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

The Cerakote was only $18 and took me way less time than driving to Walmart and having them do it. Not that I trust those idiots. Good to know though, in case I ever get to where I can’t do things myself. Oh wait- that would mean I’m dead so never mind!

Edit: I remembered reading in the instructions that you can’t do two coats- once it’s applied it’s a done deal and adding another coat will make it hazy. If they used Cerakote, you’re stuck. They should have warned you- instructions said don’t drive the vehicle or touch them for at least 2 hours. Those are some real expensive headlights, aren’t they? Man I hope they look good still. Here’s their Q&A on it:

“We do not recommend trying to touch-up areas, as this product quickly becomes chemically resistant once dry. This product is a one-coat application; more than one coat will have a cloudy appearance.”

I just had them re-do that one headlight and I'm good to go, had a mobile one oil change done at the same time so killed 2 birds.

 

[Rocket Man]

I just had them re-do that one headlight and I'm good to go, had a mobile one oil change done at the same time so killed 2 birds.

Must not be Cerakote then. Probably snake oil. Kidding. What warranty do they give you? Cerakote is for as long as you own the car, although all they do is refund you the price of their product. Walmart can’t be spending any time on them if they’re doing it for 26 bux though. I’d be leery for that price. But I’m leery of anyone touching my vehicles.

 

[Doubeleive]

Must not be Cerakote then. Probably snake oil. Kidding. What warranty do they give you? Cerakote is for as long as you own the car, although all they do is refund you the price of their product. Walmart can’t be spending any time on them if they’re doing it for 26 bux though. I’d be leery for that price. But I’m leery of anyone touching my vehicles.

No warranty as far as I know I didn't read the fine print for $26 I didn't expect one to be honest I just didn't feel like doing it. I'll clean everything else though lol

 

[Geotrash]

looks good but those worm clamps will start to leak in about 2-3 years at the most, maybe sooner facing down like that
these adapters are the sizes needed if you even wanted to make it leak proof
need 2 of each size for plug-n-play with the trucool
View attachment 449993View attachment 449994

So far mine haven't leaked at all since installing the Derale 13960 back in 2021. But I just bookmarked this for when they do. Thank you for the post.

 

[Doubeleive]

So far mine haven't leaked at all since installing the Derale 13960 back in 2021. But I just bookmarked this for when they do. Thank you for the post.

mine leaked (after a while) and I don't know about the chevy grillls but on my gmc I couldn't even reach them to try tighten them up without pulling the grill or bumper off so I researched the sizes needed to adapt the trucool thread to ANC and gm quick connect to ANC and just did a permanent fix and I had to relocate it anyway because it was making the engine get hot under a heavy load in the summer. I have to kind of wonder too if my clogged 3rd cat was creating part of the heat problem I guess I will find out this summer.
doing a 100mph up a steep upgrade at 8000ft when it's 80deg out will stress the oem cooling regardless lol

 

[Charlie207]

That is a mod I would like to do, especially being as I live where it gets to below zero at times.
Is there a write up with part numbers and whatnot?

I think as long as you have a good battery, and you remove any electrical issues, you'll be fine.

It's been incredibly cold here, well below freezing, for weeks on end. My single battery has worked great for the last 2+ years.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I think as long as you have a good battery, and you remove any electrical issues, you'll be fine.

It's been incredibly cold here, well below freezing, for weeks on end. My single battery has worked great for the last 2+ years.

View attachment 450084

So far I have not had any starting issues, but it did crank a little slower than usual the other morning when it was -17*.
Hasn't done it since but I thought it would be a good preventive measure to run dual batteries.
I really need to get a block heater installed and plug in for those nights when it is below zero.
I have an OEM block heater, I just need to install it.

 

[Geotrash]

So far I have not had any starting issues, but it did crank a little slower than usual the other morning when it was -17*.
Hasn't done it since but I thought it would be a good preventive measure to run dual batteries.
I really need to get a block heater installed and plug in for those nights when it is below zero.
I have an OEM block heater, I just need to install it.

Having lived and worked in NoDak and Montana in the winters for years, I never had a problem with a single battery, though I kept up with proactive replacements every 3-4 years. I carry a lithium ion booster pack now, and only needed it once when my truck had been sitting in the cold at the Denver airport for 3 weeks one January. In that case, a second battery may or may not have gotten me going, but the booster pack sure did. A block heater is money well spent in your area though.

I have the 2nd battery in my 3500 from the factory, and all it means is I double the cost of replacement batteries every 3-4 years. Not a good value, in my opinion.

 

[Charlie207]

Having lived and worked in NoDak and Montana in the winters for years, I never had a problem with a single battery, though I kept up with proactive replacements every 3-4 years. I carry a lithium ion booster pack now, and only needed it once when my truck had been sitting in the cold at the Denver airport for 3 weeks one January. In that case, a second battery may or may not have gotten me going, but the booster pack sure did. A block heater is money well spent in your area though.

I have the 2nd battery in my 3500 from the factory, and all it means is I double the cost of replacement batteries every 3-4 years. Not a good value, in my opinion.

I would love to run a block heater, but there is no easy or practical way to power one.

Looking at the most logical reasons for a sluggish, but successful, start probably has more to do with the crank trying to spin through molasses than anything.

PMCS is key, but my OG point is to take care of the underlying electrical gremlins first. Throwing more juice at the system is just an expensive band-aid.

But, we all know this.

 

[Geotrash]

I would love to run a block heater, but there is no easy or practical way to power one.

Looking at the most logical reasons for a sluggish, but successful, start probably has more to do with the crank trying to spin through molasses than anything.

PMCS is key, but my OG point is to take care of the underlying electrical gremlins first. Throwing more juice at the system is just an expensive band-aid.

But, we all know this.

Agreed on the underlying issues. In my case, the dead battery was my own fault - I'd left a Range AFM disabler plugged into the OBD port. But apart from that, good battery cables and grounds are a must.

In the northern plains states, plug-ins outside of hotels, restaurants and offices are pretty common. But that won't help you if that's not the case where you work, or if the distance between your garage and where you park at home is too great, of course.

I used to carry a blue (winter rated) 25' extension cord that I'd plug in at hotels when it was really cold. (10ºF or less). This, after I learned the hard way that regular orange extension cords will shatter their insulation when you bend them at those temperatures.