What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Charlie207

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Ever since my engine was replaced I am getting some rich cold starts and even some flooding. No engine lights or codes whatsoever. Only happens first thing in the morning with temps in the 30's and below.
Can you monitor your fuel pressure with the engine running, and then when you kill it, but leave the ignition ON?

Mine runs at ~43psi, but climbs to ~84psi with the engine off. I've asked before, but no one can confirm if that's normal....?

I occasionally get hard starts/no starts with a warm engine. Cold starts are 100% reliable.
 

Doubeleive

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Can you monitor your fuel pressure with the engine running, and then when you kill it, but leave the ignition ON?

Mine runs at ~43psi, but climbs to ~84psi with the engine off. I've asked before, but no one can confirm if that's normal....?

I occasionally get hard starts/no starts with a warm engine. Cold starts are 100% reliable.
the rise in pressure is caused by heat soak, normal
 

Charlie207

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that's wild.


funny out of all my tools I don't even own a breake

Wedging 2 pickle forks in this mofo does not want to come off!View attachment 451939

When I recently replaced my lower ball joints I noticed the puckle-fork was too wide to fit in there easily. I beat on it with my 4lb. thumb-detector until they popped off, but I bent the heck out of the brand new AutoZone rental fork.

The 2nd ball-joint was worse, bad the fork became stuck...wedged between the ball+joint and knuckle. A hammer worked fine to beat it off, but there must be some special, narrow fork for GM knuckles.
 

Rocket Man

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@Doubeleive Wes, you’ve installed TPMS sensors using the jack under then hitch trick haven’t you? Any issue getting the tire to inflate after breaking the bead? Just remove the valve stem? I have a 20- gallon air compressor so I’m hoping that will do it.
 

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Wes
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@Doubeleive Wes, you’ve installed TPMS sensors using the jack under then hitch trick haven’t you? Any issue getting the tire to inflate after breaking the bead? Just remove the valve stem? I have a 20- gallon air compressor so I’m hoping that will do it.
no I have not, mine are all still original as far as I know so they are probably at the end of life 12-13 years old so they have to be
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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When I recently replaced my lower ball joints I noticed the puckle-fork was too wide to fit in there easily. I beat on it with my 4lb. thumb-detector until they popped off, but I bent the heck out of the brand new AutoZone rental fork.

The 2nd ball-joint was worse, bad the fork became stuck...wedged between the ball+joint and knuckle. A hammer worked fine to beat it off, but there must be some special, narrow fork for GM knuckles.
I used a standard size pickle fork and after fighting with the first lower joint apparently there is a metal ring that came loose from the rubber part that holds the grease so I had to use a small screwdriver to lift that up in order to get the pickle fork in otherwise it wouldn't fit, I ran over and bought a 2nd pickle fork because they didn't have the rental ball joint extractor that may or may not have worked anyway, flipped the 2 forks around so it made a thicker fork and just kept pounding them in until it finally popped out.
the single pickle fork was getting stuck yes, but I used another tool that I have to wedge it back out. At one point I thought I might have to go buy a new knuckle, got the torch out and was going to throw some heat at it first when it finally broke loose. I was thrilled the other side came right off i wasn't looking forward to a another fight.
my guess is someone must have torqued the shit out of the drivers side at some point.

I kind of ran into a self induced mistake when tightening down the 1st upper ball joint, as you tighten it up the ball begins to spin so you have use a allen wrench in the center to hold it while tighten up it, I thought to myself "this is going to get wedged in there" but kept tightening it up and yep it got wedged in there so i had to hacksaw it out, the good thing is it made a new tool to use on the other side lol
 

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Wes
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When I recently replaced my lower ball joints I noticed the puckle-fork was too wide to fit in there easily. I beat on it with my 4lb. thumb-detector until they popped off, but I bent the heck out of the brand new AutoZone rental fork.

The 2nd ball-joint was worse, bad the fork became stuck...wedged between the ball+joint and knuckle. A hammer worked fine to beat it off, but there must be some special, narrow fork for GM knuckles.
and I have the same a 4lb thors hammer, just enough room to swing it somewhat hard and not smack the body in the process

when I was looking for the torque specs in the service manual there is a j-*** tool the manual references to use
j 43631 for the lower w/sleeve adapters j 45851, and for the upper j 42188-b
but not spending $500 for specialty tools that I might only use once or twice
43631.JPG43631a.JPG43631b.JPG
 
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Fless

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@Doubeleive Wes, you’ve installed TPMS sensors using the jack under then hitch trick haven’t you? Any issue getting the tire to inflate after breaking the bead? Just remove the valve stem? I have a 20- gallon air compressor so I’m hoping that will do it.

If that doesn't work try a ratchet strap around the circumference to compress the tread; that should push the bead closer to the rim.

I've seen a bicycle tube with talc powder or mounting lube used to close the gap between the bead and the rim. But sometimes they get stuck or come flying out as the bead sets. YMMV
 

j91z28d1

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When I recently replaced my lower ball joints I noticed the puckle-fork was too wide to fit in there easily. I beat on it with my 4lb. thumb-detector until they popped off, but I bent the heck out of the brand new AutoZone rental fork.

The 2nd ball-joint was worse, bad the fork became stuck...wedged between the ball+joint and knuckle. A hammer worked fine to beat it off, but there must be some special, narrow fork for GM knuckles.


most mechanics just put some tension on the arm and smack the part with the cone shaped hole with a hammer. it deflects the hole and the pop right out without damaging the boot. I was skeptical but back in the days of working in a mustang shop, we dropped the k members out to do install headers, all the time. needing to pop the lower ball joints loose but not something you want to damage in new cars with a fork. after seeing it done once. I got a bigger hammer off the tool truck. one or 2 good wacks and they pop. right apart without hurting anything.

I haven't replaced the ball joints on my truck, but that's how I'd try it if you can get a clean swing.

we have a set of forks that go in a air hammer as shop tooling here. most of our stuff has king pins so I've never used them thou.
 
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