What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

Yeah well you would still have to hack into the OS of GM’s system or add your own aftermarket system. I doubt it would be worth it in order to get rid of 1/4- 1/2” of lean.

not even sure if that could be done, I was just agreeing with you, the lean would need to be addressed some other way, spring, body mount or something

 

[89Suburban]

I think I'm gonna buy it. The link has two versions: one for a Silverado, and one for a Yukon. I assume you got the Yukon version, yes?

I wound up returning it, I was not happy with it.

 

[Charlie207]

I wound up returning it, I was not happy with it.

Ah... bummer dude.

 

[89Suburban]

I've had something very similar in my '07 for the past 4 years and it's been great. It worked fine with the Bose amp without any fiddling and did indeed sound better than the factory Nav unit I had. However it will not work with the rear seat screen without the Maestro harness, so I haven't bothered to do it since we used the '12 for long family road trips.

The volume on this unit was VERY loud. Radio reception was good compared to the last one I tried. I didn't like the setup of the operating system of the wireless carplay. You could not switch from Spotify to Radio and back it would start to cut out and act stupid. The google maps and directions looked very nice.

 

[Geotrash]

The volume on this unit was VERY loud. Radio reception was good compared to the last one I tried. I didn't like the setup of the operating system of the wireless carplay. You could not switch from Spotify to Radio and back it would start to cut out and act stupid. The google maps and directions looked very nice.

Bummer. Mine was considerably more expensive back then and made by a different company (Xtrons, I believe. Android 8.0), so maybe the quality was better. I think I paid $350 for it on Scamazon or evilBay, I forget which. The chime volume out of the box was crazy loud, but I found a trick on a support group somewhere to turn it down and it's been fine since. No issues so far with switching apps, thankfully. The radio app is excellent, actually, as is the bluetooth one. No CarPlay though, but I don't really miss it. I have a phone holder that works great and the bluetooth audio quality from Apple Music is excellent also.

 

[CMoore711]

you are aware that the rear shocks are "looped" together with 1 airline correct? one shock is not going to sit different than the other. one may "activate" on a bump different than the other if the sensor rod was different length but it's not going to affect ride height. It can't inflate more or less than the other side.
when sitting parked there is "0" activation and psi is equalized at all times.
the lean would need to be adjusted differently

Wes is correct. There’s only one airline, it runs off a T from the compressor. There’s no way to have different pressure side to side. My bagged Silverado was initially set up with the same idea and since the bags were 100% of the suspension at all 4 corners with no shocks or springs it would lean in the corners. I replumbed it and added an Airlift computerized manifold that actually shifts more air pressure to the outside bags in a lean so now it stays level no matter what and no matter how hard I corner. But you can’t do that to one of these trucks with the factory setup.

I do understand this. I have adjusted the length of the rear auto-ride sensor rods on each rear passenger and rear driver side and have changed the right height from one side to another. Now, quite often when you change the driver side the passenger side is impacted from those changes also, likely since the system is "looped".

 

[Doubeleive]

I do understand this. I have adjusted the length of the rear auto-ride sensor rods on each rear passenger and rear driver side and have changed the right height from one side to another. Now, quite often when you change the driver side the passenger side is impacted from those changes also, likely since the system is "looped".

ok, i think this deserves further explanation because simply adjusting the control arm sensors is not going to change the left/right height, that will only change how the shock reacts to a bump or it might affect how much psi is applied overall not left/right

 

[Rocket Man]

I do understand this. I have adjusted the length of the rear auto-ride sensor rods on each rear passenger and rear driver side and have changed the right height from one side to another. Now, quite often when you change the driver side the passenger side is impacted from those changes also, likely since the system is "looped".

ok, i think this deserves further explanation because simply adjusting the control arm sensors is not going to change the left/right height, that will only change how the shock reacts to a bump or it might affect how much psi is applied overall not left/right

The result of lengthening either ride height rod length is the system will raise the vehicle up in the rear, thinking there’s a load on the hitch and thus the rear is sagging. The longest rod is the only one that matters because the system will raise the rear until that rod is in its normal place where the ALC trim set is calibrated as a no-load situation. The short rod will be ignored. And it’s not “oftentimes” that it happens- its every time you lengthen a rod to affects the other side. The same PSI is shared between the two sides because the air hose is connected to the compressor by air lines that go to a T and then into one line to the compressor. Both sides are ALWAYS going to have the same PSI and thus the same height. By adding PSI to both shocks through the shared air lines, it will raise the rear of the vehicle until that longest ride height rod is in its calibrated position where it thinks the system is at it’s correct height. But both sides will be the same height minus the Chevy lean. The system can’t correct that due to not being able to create nor differentiate a different PSI to each side.

 

[Doubeleive]

The result of lengthening either ride height rod length is the system will raise the vehicle up in the rear, thinking there’s a load on the hitch and thus the rear is sagging. The longest rod is the only one that matters because the system will raise the rear until that rod is in its normal place where the ALC trim set is calibrated as a no-load situation. The short rod will be ignored. And it’s not “oftentimes” that it happens- its every time you lengthen a rod to affects the other side. The same PSI is shared between the two sides because the air hose is connected to the compressor by air lines that go to a T and then into one line to the compressor. Both sides are ALWAYS going to have the same PSI and thus the same height. By adding PSI to both shocks through the shared air lines, it will raise the rear of the vehicle until that longest ride height rod is in its calibrated position where it thinks the system is at it’s correct height. But both sides will be the same height minus the Chevy lean. The system can’t correct that due to not being able to create nor differentiate a different PSI to each side.

I totally understand this, I think cmoore is leaving out some details in whatever he did, as adjusting the rod will not correct "lean" alone
I believe the lean is most noticeable in the front driver area so a extra 1/4" spacer in the front left would likely correct it for the most part

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Because of how much varnish I had under my valve covers when I changed the valve cover gaskets, I decided to do and engine flush today.
Poured the cleaner in, let it idle for the recommended time, dumped the oil/cleaner mix.
Then I refilled with cheap oil and a cheap filter, let it idle for about 5 minutes and dumped that oil and filter.
Sounds a little quieter, we will see if that lasts.

Also changed the belts, tensioner and idler pulley.
Whoever thought up stretch belts should be shot.