What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Charlie207]

Great job, if I'm going in that deep, I am replacing the axle while I'm in there.
No way I would want to do that again, any time soon.

I've gotten really fast at blowing the front-end apart. The most annoying part is actually having to deal with how far I have to drag my jack & jack stands out from the walk-out basement > around the house > up the hill > over to the driveway. And, also when I realize that I needed a 7/8" wrench and all I have is metric stuff... plus every other time I forget a tool in the basement.

Once the ground dries out I just drive out back and load up the Yukon at the basement doors, but it's still mud-season.

 

[Rocket Man]

I see gap between door and ground. You need to Channel the body.

That’s because the bags had 45-50 PSI, pretty much at ride height. Aired out, the pinch welds lay on the ground. It has a stock floor body drop, the frame is custom built from 2 x 3 tube steel. No need to channel the body- that would be the easy way and look bad on the interior.

 

[89Suburban]

There was a Amazon review that said you had to unlock the headunit setting (with code 000000) and turn down the source volume from 100 to 50, and then it would be more balanced with the vehicle volume.

Maybe you have better luck than me, I didn't have the patience. Another irk was the lack of instructions and having to search reviews and youtube for help with this unit.

 

[Doubeleive]

I was going for lazy, and didn't even need to remove the strut, even though I removed all the nuts/bolts. Soaking everything in PB Blaster for a few days prior was probably a good idea. You just hold the camber plates against the frame, and tap the bolts out. Luckily mine weren't rusted/fused together.

If you lift both front wheels off the ground you can leave the end-links connected. I had a short prybar, and that was enough to manipulate everything back together.

when I did mine I unbolted the bottom of the strut and loosened the upper bolts so I could move it enough to get the upper control arm bolts out, otherwise the springs were blocking them and I was doing the lower arms as well so it all had to be unbolted.

 

[Charlie207]

when I did mine I unbolted the bottom of the strut and loosened the upper bolts so I could move it enough to get the upper control arm bolts out, otherwise the springs were blocking them and I was doing the lower arms as well so it all had to be unbolted.

I watched some YT video where the guy left the shocks in, so I just copied him. As long as the camber plates aren't rusted to the bolts, you can work the bolts free after rotating the camber plates about 180* to give wiggle room against the coil. I'll try to take some pics if I have time at lunch to do the drinker's side.

 

[NASTY GM]

Why did you remove the rear axles? In order to change the orientation of the brake backing plates because you had clearance issues? Mine are mounted forward on the rear brakes. I have a 3 link in the rear that keeps things centered. My rear end is narrowed enough to tuck 26 x 12 intros with 10” lips, no clearance issues.

Looks like you have 14" rears? When I had 14" it wasn't a problem. When I switched to 16" they had to be mounted on the rear side.
Oh, and nice truck

 

[Doubeleive]

I watched some YT video where the guy left the shocks in, so I just copied him. As long as the camber plates aren't rusted to the bolts, you can work the bolts free after rotating the camber plates about 180* to give wiggle room against the coil. I'll try to take some pics if I have time at lunch to do the drinker's side.

I didn't want to fight it more than I had to, loosening the upper bolts was easy enough to allow me some wiggle room

 

[Geotrash]

There was a Amazon review that said you had to unlock the headunit setting (with code 000000) and turn down the source volume from 100 to 50, and then it would be more balanced with the vehicle volume.

Yep, that sounds like what I had to do with mine.

 

[Charlie207]

I didn't want to fight it more than I had to, loosening the upper bolts was easy enough to allow me some wiggle room

Actually, this is helpful, because it'll remind me to remove the swaybar frame mounts, and grease those bushings up. I'm hoping that's the squeaky noise culprit. It's driving me insane with the windows down. Sounds like a high-pitched mouse "eeep eeep" noise.

 

[Geotrash]

Actually, this is helpful, because it'll remind me to remove the swaybar frame mounts, and grease those bushings up. I'm hoping that's the squeaky noise culprit. It's driving me insane with the windows down. Sounds like a high-pitched mouse "eeep eeep" noise.

I loosened the upper bolts when I did mine too. Made the job much easier.

For those with autoride struts reading this, remember to hit the electrical connector on top of them with electrical contact cleaner before reassembly (assuming you have them), or you'll get a suspension code. I've seen it happen to a few people here.