What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Rocket Man

Mark
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for that center break you could get a piece of rectangular aluminum or mild steel, cut it into (2) 4" strips, drill a hole on each end and use it as a brace for that break right in the center, drill corresponding holes on each side of the break and bolt it on. That will be stronger than trying to bond it back together, which you could apply also with some epoxy.
i'm poor I have always figured out ways to fix things if it is at all possible.
you can do whatever to it right there as nothing will be touching it.
with the inside being curved you could bend a couple washers the same angle and use a couple stand-offs or short sleeves, unless you can round off the bracing metal with some kind of tool for the inside. or just use a couple big bent washers on the inside I don't think it is critical area that will continue to come apart just needs to be braced to keep from wiggling at all.
View attachment 455189
McGyver it!
 

Charlie207

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for that center break you could get a piece of rectangular aluminum or mild steel, cut it into (2) 4" strips, drill a hole on each end and use it as a brace for that break right in the center, drill corresponding holes on each side of the break and bolt it on. That will be stronger than trying to bond it back together, which you could apply also with some epoxy.
i'm poor I have always figured out ways to fix things if it is at all possible.
you can do whatever to it right there as nothing will be touching it.
with the inside being curved you could bend a couple washers the same angle and use a couple stand-offs or short sleeves, unless you can round off the bracing metal with some kind of tool for the inside. or just use a couple big bent washers on the inside I don't think it is critical area that will continue to come apart just needs to be braced to keep from wiggling at all.
View attachment 455189

Just get the hot staple kit.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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for that center break you could get a piece of rectangular aluminum or mild steel, cut it into (2) 4" strips, drill a hole on each end and use it as a brace for that break right in the center, drill corresponding holes on each side of the break and bolt it on. That will be stronger than trying to bond it back together, which you could apply also with some epoxy.
i'm poor I have always figured out ways to fix things if it is at all possible.
you can do whatever to it right there as nothing will be touching it.
with the inside being curved you could bend a couple washers the same angle and use a couple stand-offs or short sleeves, unless you can round off the bracing metal with some kind of tool for the inside. or just use a couple big bent washers on the inside I don't think it is critical area that will continue to come apart just needs to be braced to keep from wiggling at all.
View attachment 455189
Yeah, that's minor. I'm not worried about it. Good idea, I'll come up with something.
 

CMoore711

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Picked up some OEM ‘12-‘14 Premium tail lights and purchased an OEM 3rd brake light as well. Had the day off for Good Friday and weather was good so swapped them out.

3rd brake light is retrofitted with LEDs. Turned out great, only gripe is the LEDs in the 3rd brake light don’t seem nearly as bright as the brake lights on the tail lights…

Before:
IMG_6873.jpeg


After:
IMG_6875.jpeg


Night time shot:
IMG_6876.jpeg
 

Geotrash

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Finally got the second fan shroud delivered...
This one's covered in mud, but everything looks to be in good shape otherwise. So I'll give it a good wash and put my brand new motors in with my fan blades. Should be all set after that.

So now I have two sets of used motors and blades and pigtails... Technically three sets of motors except one of mine was making bad noises which is why I bought new ones.
I installed a RockAuto aftermarket one in my 2012 last year but it was for the K5L package. It's working great (confirmed with heavy towing last summer) and was brand new. Just something to think about if the muddy one 5hits the bed.
 
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