What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Mean_Green]

Programmed two new remotes. Very simple and they work well.

Swapped out a bunch of lamps for LEDs. All seem to work, but the front marker lights are odd. Put two green 194s and at first they were nice and bright. Put the ambers in the front and reds in the back.
They work fine on tail/parking and 4 way. Turn signals work, but on hyperflash. Not sure I care about that as long as they all blink. But the marker lights went out. Put incandescents back in and they barely light at all, just a faint glow. Doesn't make sense to me. The same 194 greens in the dash all work fine.

 

[Mean_Green]

Disco Balls arrived today. First shot is comparison to the old. Second is all four units installed and grille back on.

 

[Mean_Green]

LED courtesy lights arrived. Simple plug in. Bright too. Lots brighter that 194s and the red part lights up too instead of just being a reflector like the old ones.


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Yes, the rear seats are out. Mentioned that before. Will rig more cargo space for shopping runs.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

LED courtesy lights arrived. Simple plug in. Bright too. Lots brighter that 194s and the red part lights up too instead of just being a reflector like the old ones.


View attachment 395647.


Yes, the rear seats are out. Mentioned that before. Will rig more cargo space for shopping runs.

Wow! Those look good!

 

[Sam Harris]

Wondering if it would be better/easier/cheaper/less hassle to replace the whole lower control arms that come with the ball joints.

This is what I did on my NBS. Much easier, and worth the more cost for the parts.

Only lowers they have are for RWD, unless I'm missing something. I got new bushings for the lower control arm, but again my mechanic said they have to be pressed in.

might not be a bad thing to pick up a Hobo Freight press.. used to be around $125.. I think they’re around $200 now. I just spent $200 for a bushing press tool for my old Civic, so I could do the whole job myself. I have a guy I can go to his shop, use his tools and lift, but who knows if he’d have the correct cup for this specific job… don’t want to pull the whole rear suspension off, and then find out he doesn’t have it. Figured I should just get what I know will work. I bought the tool, and also a master pack of bushing / seal driver & presses, for whatever comes along.

 

[j91z28d1]

I walked by mine parked in the driveway and said damn I need to drive it more or just sell it. it's a shame to just sit.

 

[Mean_Green]

Owner's Manual says there's a three button remote for garage doors, etc. Shows a closeup, but no wide shot to see where it goes. Is wiring in place if I can find one at Salvage?

 

[east302]

It would be in the overhead console. I don’t know if it’s prewired, though.

I’ve seen in various forums where people have added the HomeLink panels from GM SUVs (Bravada, Jimmy, Blazer) and wired them in. I’m unsure of the specifics, though.

 

[Mean_Green]

Well, I don't have the overhead console, so I'm not sure if it's worth the bother. I may see if Salvage has one and see if it just needs 12V and ground.


Meanwhile ....

Replaced the 7 pin trailer connector since several of the wires were rotted and corroded off. Used a Curt 57102 that gives you the 7 pin blade, a 4 pin flat and a backup alarm all in one unit. I may end up hating the alarm, but I might wire in a switch for it.

Also replaced the license plate lights with LED units. Though the old 194 bulbs were burned out but once I got into them the sockets were so corroded that the lamp tabs were rotted off. Cleaned them with contact cleaner and packed them with vaseline. New sealed units fit into the factory bumper openings quite well.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

Just doing my rear differential fluid on my '97 Yukon GT 4x4. 10 bolt diff cover. Do you guys know the factory bolt torque spec, when using the OEM GM gasket? Thanks.