Sparksalot
Supporting Member
What Is The Best Radiator Available???
- Thread starter 2007YukonXL
- Start date
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Sparksalot
Supporting Member
My cunning plan is to fabricate some replacements from inexpensive, read free, materials on hand.
this stuff should be much stiffer.
Sparksalot
Supporting Member
Pairs ready.
pairs...because twins.
pairs...because twins.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
You may have to start selling these...
Sparksalot
Supporting Member
I can see it now. 3 years in bidness, and 3 pairs sold.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Well if you don't want to sell them then just send me a pair complimentary out of your left over "materials on hand"... I will do a nice write up and direct all future purchases to your new website that doesn't exist.
Picked up the camper from storage this afternoon in 85° weather and pulled it down the highway for about 30 miles to see how the new radiator is working. It’s running about 10-15° cooler than it was in similar ambient temperatures two weekends ago, per the OBD2 data feed. Primo! And that’s without the upgraded fan and 700W motor installed, but I did repair the baffles this morning.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sparksalot
Supporting Member
I put the baffles into thecopcar. I’ll secure the top end in some manner. The bottom is wedge fit.
2007YukonXL
Member
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>Another thing, on either side of the radiator was a tar paper like material to keep the air from going around the radiator. Mine is starting to rot away and may explain the slight uptick in temperatures.
For sure!!!
Cooling of a radiator is all about air flow through the fins...not around the fins. The tar paper is an air dam that is supposed to prevent any air from bypassing the radiator and if that is missing, at highway speeds the speed of the truck will cause a huge amount of air to backup in front of the radiator and core support and create a positive pressure and a huge amount of air will bypass the radiator through the breach in the air dam and fill up in the engine compartment that will create a positive pressure in the engine compartment and this positive pressure will try to fight with whatever air is trying to flow through the radiator cooling fins.
Using tar paper looking material was a horrible idea.
For sure!!!
Cooling of a radiator is all about air flow through the fins...not around the fins. The tar paper is an air dam that is supposed to prevent any air from bypassing the radiator and if that is missing, at highway speeds the speed of the truck will cause a huge amount of air to backup in front of the radiator and core support and create a positive pressure and a huge amount of air will bypass the radiator through the breach in the air dam and fill up in the engine compartment that will create a positive pressure in the engine compartment and this positive pressure will try to fight with whatever air is trying to flow through the radiator cooling fins.
Using tar paper looking material was a horrible idea.
2007YukonXL
Member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Posts
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- Reaction score
- 27
Feedback on the Cold Case radiator installation/ experience.
I bought the Cold Case RAD-GMT569A radiator and it looks really nice...excellent TIG welds and design.
As previously posted it is NOT a direct fit. The plastic shroud of the OEM electric fan assembly needed to be trimmed down and the radiator did not fit easily inside the core support without some modification.
I also installed the OEM remote transmission cooler and I retrofitted the OEM system engine oil cooler.
Very happy.
Yesterday was the first day to do an oranges to oranges comparison towing a steel deck car trailer on mostly level terrain at 98 F. Previously with the OEM AC Delco radiator the trans temp would get to 230 F and the coolant temp would get north of 210 F when at highway speeds...even with the EMPTY car trailer. So yesterday during the same conditions the trans temp was 180 F and the coolant temp needle was rock steady right on the 210 F line. After a car was loaded on on he same highway, speed, and outside air temp the coolant was 210 F and the engine temp needle would show slightly to the right of the 210 F line.
One thing that perhaps could be a negative to this mod...on a cool day and on the highway without towing a trailer I would see the coolant needle stay on the 210 F line and then it would drop to 180 F and then back up to 210 F. This means that perhaps the new radiator is providing too much cooling capacity and that the thermostat is opening and closing although I would have suspected that the thermostat would only crack open a little to modulate the coolant. I have not driven on a very cold day.
Anyway...that is the feedback.
THANKS for all of your advice!!!
I bought the Cold Case RAD-GMT569A radiator and it looks really nice...excellent TIG welds and design.
As previously posted it is NOT a direct fit. The plastic shroud of the OEM electric fan assembly needed to be trimmed down and the radiator did not fit easily inside the core support without some modification.
I also installed the OEM remote transmission cooler and I retrofitted the OEM system engine oil cooler.
Very happy.
Yesterday was the first day to do an oranges to oranges comparison towing a steel deck car trailer on mostly level terrain at 98 F. Previously with the OEM AC Delco radiator the trans temp would get to 230 F and the coolant temp would get north of 210 F when at highway speeds...even with the EMPTY car trailer. So yesterday during the same conditions the trans temp was 180 F and the coolant temp needle was rock steady right on the 210 F line. After a car was loaded on on he same highway, speed, and outside air temp the coolant was 210 F and the engine temp needle would show slightly to the right of the 210 F line.
One thing that perhaps could be a negative to this mod...on a cool day and on the highway without towing a trailer I would see the coolant needle stay on the 210 F line and then it would drop to 180 F and then back up to 210 F. This means that perhaps the new radiator is providing too much cooling capacity and that the thermostat is opening and closing although I would have suspected that the thermostat would only crack open a little to modulate the coolant. I have not driven on a very cold day.
Anyway...that is the feedback.
THANKS for all of your advice!!!
