What kind of PowerSlot rotors to buy?

[warrlac]

Nice DIY work! A shame you didn't go ahead and install the SST brake lines.

I think that's the one mod that will really bring those big, new brakes to life!

Nice!

 

[Popeye]

Watching this thread with interest. 99YUK please update with performance after bleeding, especially with the pedal travel and stopping characteristics. Would u have the 3/4ton Brake Cylinder Part #?

Thx to all who has contributed.

BTW, there is a Sale at R1 Concepts and a pair of Rotors are US$ 46 (pair).

 

[99Yuk]

No updates yet, been busy with server install this week, so no work done on truck...sigh....
Will fix soon though.

Part# of calipers are 6LC557 SLC557 CALIPER
They were purchased through Partssource.


Hope this helps.

 

[steamroller]

Nice work, hopefully the pedal will get better once they get bled real good. The ABS unit may have some air in it. Those Hawk pads look like the 3/4 ton pads if you go back and look at the dimension pics I posted. Summit is usually pretty good with customer service so maybe they'll get you squared away

 

[99Yuk]

Jeepers, work is busy. I'm doing a new server every two weeks.

After some back and forth email arguing, Summit agreed to pay for cross-border shipping to return the pads. SteamRoller is right, they were 3/4ton pads.

But I didn't want to wait another two weeks or so, and I liked the bigger, meatier pads. So tonight, I used the grinder on the existing pads, and ground away the excess lip of steel that was hitting the rotor to the edge of the pad material. It just wasn't enough to clear, so I took them back off, and ground some more. I still have 1/8" more pad material than 1/2ton pads. They clear the rotors now! And I didn't have to send them back to Summit! Crikey, I didn't like those $18 set of temporary pads, they squeeled, and threw out black junk on my rims. I only drove home tonight on the Hawks pads, but they seemed to stop better already! And no squeel!

I still havn't bled the back lines or installed the SS lines yet, but it's comming.
Who says we are in a recession! I can't believe how busy work is getting.

 

[99Yuk]

I found the key, I found the secret....

Wow! What a difference a set of pads makes!
I went from a brand new set of $18 generic pads to a set of brand new Hawk pads that fit, and it's night and day difference.
Gone is that vague, mushy braking feeling, replaced with a new firm, top of the pedal, yes I'm going to stop when I want to feeling.
I wouldn't have believed it myself, so I asked the Old guy Mech about it. We took one set of Hawk pads off this afternoon, and compared it to the $18 set.

We found the secret of the Hawks pads. They are thicker than regular new pads. Each pad was 1/8" thicker than the cheapies. So each piston was compressed 1/4", thus making the brake pedal higher and firmer for the same amount of braking as compared to the cheapies..

I don't think that the kind or brand of rotors is important at this point, although my new ones are slotted, IDK if that makes a difference or not, but the pads sure did.
If anyone asked me, I'd say stick to simple local parts store slotted rotors, and Hawk pads. Here is the part# of the correct 1/2ton pads: HB332Z.654, and here is where I got mine: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HWK-HB332Z-654/Application/?query=Year%7c1999%7cMake%7cGMC%7cModel%7cYUKON%7cDrivetrain%7c4WD

I can't wait until the SS lines get installed and the lines flushed with ATE Super Blue! We'll see if it gets better, but even if it doesn't I'm happy right now with the Hawk pads.

 

[laxman21]

Wow! What a difference a set of pads makes!
I went from a brand new set of $18 generic pads to a set of brand new Hawk pads that fit, and it's night and day difference.
Gone is that vague, mushy braking feeling, replaced with a new firm, top of the pedal, yes I'm going to stop when I want to feeling.
I wouldn't have believed it myself, so I asked the Old guy Mech about it. We took one set of Hawk pads off this afternoon, and compared it to the $18 set.

We found the secret of the Hawks pads. They are thicker than regular new pads. Each pad was 1/8" thicker than the cheapies. So each piston was compressed 1/4", thus making the brake pedal higher and firmer for the same amount of braking as compared to the cheapies..

I don't think that the kind or brand of rotors is important at this point, although my new ones are slotted, IDK if that makes a difference or not, but the pads sure did.
If anyone asked me, I'd say stick to simple local parts store slotted rotors, and Hawk pads. Here is the part# of the correct 1/2ton pads: HB332Z.654, and here is where I got mine: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HWK-HB332Z-654/Application/?query=Year%7c1999%7cMake%7cGMC%7cModel%7cYUKON%7cDrivetrain%7c4WD

I can't wait until the SS lines get installed and the lines flushed with ATE Super Blue! We'll see if it gets better, but even if it doesn't I'm happy right now with the Hawk pads.

The thickness of the new pads makes no difference. The braking system is designed to work the same as the brake pads wear down and become thinner, that is why the level of the fluid in the master cylinder goes down as your pads wear because more fluid stays in the piston.

You are now using a pad with greater surface area increasing the friction applied to the rotor thus stopping you faster. also, the pads have different friction materials in them.

As for the mushy feeling, you might have pushed some air out of the lines when you pushed the piston back in. Or it could just be mental.

For the brake lines...PB Blaster is your friend.

 

[Done Deal DR]

The thickness of the new pads makes no difference. The braking system is designed to work the same as the brake pads wear down and become thinner, that is why the level of the fluid in the master cylinder goes down as your pads wear because more fluid stays in the piston.

You are now using a pad with greater surface area increasing the friction applied to the rotor thus stopping you faster. also, the pads have different friction materials in them.

As for the mushy feeling, you might have pushed some air out of the lines when you pushed the piston back in. Or it could just be mental.

For the brake lines...PB Blaster is your friend.

I agree with this. The thickness of the pad won't increase or decrease braking performance as the system is designed to work with full thickness pads all the way down past the wear bars, which is the point of the cylinder system.

What will affect brake performance is pad size, pad compound (most important IMO), rotor surface and size, size and # of cylinders, air (or lack thereof) in system, quality of brake fluid, SS lines (feel more so than performance), and master cylinder. Most of these you've already upgraded so you should be good to go I'd think.

You can get 8+/10th's of the pure stopping performance of expensive BBK's by just getting quality pads, rotors, and bleeding properly. Where you see improvements in the more expensive BBK setups is brake fade resistance...which unless you're doing extremely heavy towing or racing (LOL ) I see no need to go that far with these types of vehicles.

 

[99Yuk]

The thickness of the new pads makes no difference. The braking system is designed to work the same as the brake pads wear down and become thinner, that is why the level of the fluid in the master cylinder goes down as your pads wear because more fluid stays in the piston.

You are now using a pad with greater surface area increasing the friction applied to the rotor thus stopping you faster. also, the pads have different friction materials in them.

As for the mushy feeling, you might have pushed some air out of the lines when you pushed the piston back in. Or it could just be mental.

For the brake lines...PB Blaster is your friend.

Maybe I'm mental then, but the pedal is higher now than when I had all stock stuff, and when I had upgraded the caliper, but used crappy new pads. I swear just a pad change made a difference. But your right, I'm not wrench certified, just server certified. I just know what I feel after each upgrade.

I should try the PB Blaster, I was told that I needed a torch to change the lines out, and I'm not touching a torch.. I have to wait until the shop is not busy, and a mech does it for me... sigh... I'm still waiting...

---------- Post added at 04:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:29 PM ----------

I agree with this. The thickness of the pad won't increase or decrease braking performance as the system is designed to work with full thickness pads all the way down past the wear bars, which is the point of the cylinder system.

What will affect brake performance is pad size, pad compound (most important IMO), rotor surface and size, size and # of cylinders, air (or lack thereof) in system, quality of brake fluid, SS lines (feel more so than performance), and master cylinder. Most of these you've already upgraded so you should be good to go I'd think.

You can get 8+/10th's of the pure stopping performance of expensive BBK's by just getting quality pads, rotors, and bleeding properly. Where you see improvements in the more expensive BBK setups is brake fade resistance...which unless you're doing extremely heavy towing or racing (LOL ) I see no need to go that far with these types of vehicles.

Maybe it's because the cheapo pads were 1/2ton and my new pads are 3/4ton. I dunno then.

 

[laxman21]

Maybe I'm mental then, but the pedal is higher now than when I had all stock stuff, and when I had upgraded the caliper, but used crappy new pads. I swear just a pad change made a difference. But your right, I'm not wrench certified, just server certified. I just know what I feel after each upgrade.

I should try the PB Blaster, I was told that I needed a torch to change the lines out, and I'm not touching a torch.. I have to wait until the shop is not busy, and a mech does it for me... sigh... I'm still waiting...

The stroke of the brake pedal won't change due to new pads. A lot of people feel their brakes a firmer after only new pads are installed.



But, if it feels better to you, you have a satisfied customer!