What should i do about oil leak

[ahunn]

FWIW, I had to replace my oil pan gasket at about 80K miles. I had developed a leak which wouldn't respond to snugging the pan bolts. After that gasket was done, it has been dry as a bone underneath (knock on wood). I just looked it up and the total at the dealer here was just over $500, including an oil change and new filter.

After you get the catch can installed, you will get a pretty good idea how much oil is being pumped through the PCV back into the intake. Before I had the oil consumption TSB done on my engine (which includes getting the updated valve cover), I was losing about 1qt of oil every 1K miles. Some of the plugs were so fouled with carbon, they didn't look like spark plugs. After we did the oil consumption TSB (including the new valve cover), I installed a catch can and I get about a tablespoon of oil in the can between changes (5K miles).

Depending on how bad the oil ingestion has been, the TSB can be a pretty big deal. Let's hope most of your oil loss is in leaks and not through the PCV and intake.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[ahunn]

Is this the correct block off plate gasket? fel pro oil cooler gasket

 

[wsteele]

It should work, although I would probably get this one:

 

[badtothe bone]

And pray tell what bad advice are you referring to here on this forum?

Any Dummy that thinks you have to remove the oil pan - like a 1955 - 1985 Small Block Chevrolet - doesn't know what they are doing. As soon as I read that I realized these people are clueless. Go buy yourself a Chilton's Manual ..

 

[wsteele]

Any Dummy that thinks you have to remove the oil pan - like a 1955 - 1985 Small Block Chevrolet - doesn't know what they are doing. As soon as I read that I realized these people are clueless. Go buy yourself a Chilton's Manual ..

Where did anyone say he needed to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal?

 

[Geotrash]

Any Dummy that thinks you have to remove the oil pan - like a 1955 - 1985 Small Block Chevrolet - doesn't know what they are doing. As soon as I read that I realized these people are clueless. Go buy yourself a Chilton's Manual ..

I went back thru the thread also to see if I could spot what you’re talking about and I’m coming up short.

 

[badtothe bone]

The forum members are saying that you have to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal in a 5.3L V-8 engine.

You take the transmission out, take the adaptor off the back of the engine, pry out the old seal, pound in the new seal, put it back together, its not a hard job.

 

[Larryjb]

The forum members are saying that you have to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal in a 5.3L V-8 engine.

You take the transmission out, take the adaptor off the back of the engine, pry out the old seal, pound in the new seal, put it back together, its not a hard job.

No one said this. Members have recommended replacing the oil pan gasket, but no one said it must be removed to replace the rear main seal.

 

[ahunn]

I'm back after a short hiatus. Took a vacation with the kids and family, which was great. We needed to get away and take a breather. I had some issues at work, and more issues with the tahoe to resolve; rack and pinion. I'll start another thread for that though.
I've only just driven about 3100 miles and have a little more than a 1/4 cup of oil in my catch can.
There were issues with the ordering of my new valve cover and so that had not been installed. I did just recently receive the valve cover in the mail and plan to install tomorrow if it doesn't rain here.
I'm ready to tackle this issue and hopefully put it behind me. I am so ready for a year of no issues with this suv.

 

[ahunn]

Replaced the valve cover last thursday. I'm curious to see how things look after another 3000 miles.
So far I have added an oil catch can, and a driver's side valve cover. Now onto the oil pan. I may tackle that myself instead of taking it to the shop. Time to search the forums for information.
Thank you everyone for all of your help and advice.