Wheel bearing noise?

[hiwaycruzer]

Lately I've been hearing a low, droning noise in the front end of my '96 Tahoe. It's a 4x4 4-dr with 179k miles. The noise starts around 40mph and pitch gets higher with speed. I suspect a hub bearing on its way out. I've never replaced one on a 4x4 was hoping one of you fellow Tahoe owners might be able to direct me to a link that shows the step-by-step replacement proceedure.

Thanks!

 

[SunlitComet]

Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement FRONT HUB/BEARING

Tool Required:

• J 36607 Ball Joint Separator
• J 36605 Steering Knuckle Seal Installer
• Or Equivalents

REMOVAL

NOTE: Raise the vehicle and support with suitable safety stands.

Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Tire and wheel assembly.

• 1. Wrap shop towels around both the inner and outer ON joint boots to avoid damage to the boots during removal and installation.

1. Brake caliper. NOTE: Support the caliper with a piece of wire to prevent damage to the brake line.
2. Brake rotor.
3. Drive axle (halfshaft) nut (120).
4. Washer (119).
5. Tie rod nut (124).
6. Tie rod end from the knuckle (117).
7. Hub and bearing assembly (114), using a puller. NOTE: Lay the hub and bearing assembly on the hub bolt (outboard) side. This will prevent damage or contamination of the bearing seal.
8. Drive axle (halfshaft).
9. Splash shield bolts (128).
10. Splash shield (118).

• 1. Support the lower control arm with a jack stand.

1. Upper ball joint nut.

13. Upper ball joint (115) from the knuckle (117). Using J 3660 7.

1. Lower ball joint nut.

15. Lower ball joint (127) from the knuckle (117). Using J 3660 7.

1. Knuckle (117).
2. Seal from the knuckle.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install or connect the following:

1. Seal (126) into the knuckle (117) using J 36605.
2. Knuckle (117) to the upper and lower bail joints (115 and 127).
3. Nuts (129).

• • Tighten
  • Lower stud nut (129) to 128 Nm (94 ft. lbs.) .
  • Upper stud nut (129) to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.) .
  • Tighten the nuts to align the cotter pin. Do not tighten more than 1/6 turn.

1. New cotter pins. Bend the pin ends against the nut.
2. Splash shield (118). Be sure the splash shield is aligned properly.
3. Splash shield bolts (128).

• • Tighten
  • Bolts (128) to 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.) .
  • Prelube steering knuckle-seal.

1. Drive axle (halfshaft).
2. Hub and bearing assembly (114). Align the threaded holes.
3. Bolts (116). Tighten (116) to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.) .
4. Tie rod end (125) to the knuckle (117).
5. Tie rod nut (124). Tighten (124) to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
6. Washer (119).
7. Nut (120). Tighten (120) to 225 Nm (165 ft. lbs.) .
8. Brake rotor.
9. Brake caliper.
10. Tire and wheel assembly.

• • Remove the jack stand.
  • Lower the vehicle.
  • Check vehicle trim height, and adjust if necessary.

 

[willua11]

looks like a difficult repair

 

[ChrisAU]

It's not very hard, only 10 bolts/nuts need to be turned, including your 6 lugs. Get some Liquid Wrench and a big breaker bar for the bearing to knuckle bolts. They are M14-2.0x50MM btw.