Where should I start?

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ryanholloway

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I drive my fathers 02 with about 134k on the odo. my codes consist of:
p0137 o2 low voltage bank 1 sensor 2

p0151 o2 low voltage bank 2 sensor 1

p0155 o2 sensor heater bank 2 sensor 1

p0174 system too lean bank 2

p0178 fuel composition sensor low

p0300 random mis

p1153

I daily drive it for work which is only a couple miles away. dispite it running lean it stinks of gas and misfires when at red lights. ideally id like to fix the mis first. Also I changed the plugs and wires recently and i also replaced the o2 sensors once before the code seems to keep coming back. Thanks
 

15burban

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Were the parts that were replaced oem and from a credible place (dealer, rockauto etc)?
 

Marky Dissod

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Next part to throw at it is the flex fuel composition concentration sensor.
When this thing goes bad / gets old, as a precaution, it WASTES fuel, because rich is safer than lean.
Your '02 is now 22 years old with 134k miles. Sometimes firing the parts derringer is not a bad idea.
 

nonickatall

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Next part to throw at it is the flex fuel composition concentration sensor.
When this thing goes bad / gets old, as a precaution, it WASTES fuel, because rich is safer than lean.
Your '02 is now 22 years old with 134k miles. Sometimes firing the parts derringer is not a bad idea.
But that would not explain low voltage on both oxygen sensors..

I would highly recommend to take a multimeter and messure the oxygen sensors.

Fyi

Maybe you have a ground problem, water in a connector or the wiring harness to the O2 sensor is damaged.

You wrote that you swapped o2 sensors. All four?

The other errors are follow-up problems
 

Fless

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Before you start throwing parts at it, do some diagnostics. Multiple new parts without the science to back it up tends to introduce too many variables and some frustrating tail-chasing.

Low battery voltage can cause some of these issues, and short-tripping really hurts the charge and can cause engine wear. Have the battery load-tested and replace if necessary, and the charging system tested, then start taking longer drives to warm it up and get the battery fully charged.

A good scanner will read single-cylinder misfires; beg, borrow, or -- well, get one to use.

Just about any functional scanner can give you the short- and long-term fuel trims, which we'd be interested in for both banks. Might be good to get them on a warm truck at idle, then again at 1500-2000 rpm.

If you're not running some formula of E85 (that's mostly ethanol) connect a good scanner and it can tell you what it (the truck) thinks is the fuel alcohol content. Typical gas is E10 (10% ethanol) so if that's what you're running, that's what the scanner should show. If there's a major discrepancy between the two, then the alcohol percentage may need to be reset with the scanner, or the sensor might be faulty. But don't condemn it until it's been tested.
 
OP
OP
R

ryanholloway

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Before you start throwing parts at it, do some diagnostics. Multiple new parts without the science to back it up tends to introduce too many variables and some frustrating tail-chasing.

Low battery voltage can cause some of these issues, and short-tripping really hurts the charge and can cause engine wear. Have the battery load-tested and replace if necessary, and the charging system tested, then start taking longer drives to warm it up and get the battery fully charged.

A good scanner will read single-cylinder misfires; beg, borrow, or -- well, get one to use.

Just about any functional scanner can give you the short- and long-term fuel trims, which we'd be interested in for both banks. Might be good to get them on a warm truck at idle, then again at 1500-2000 rpm.

If you're not running some formula of E85 (that's mostly ethanol) connect a good scanner and it can tell you what it (the truck) thinks is the fuel alcohol content. Typical gas is E10 (10% ethanol) so if that's what you're running, that's what the scanner should show. If there's a major discrepancy between the two, then the alcohol percentage may need to be reset with the scanner, or the sensor might be faulty. But don't condemn it until it's been tested.
Thank you my fathers friend has a good scanner ill try to get him over this weekend to check it out
 

rockola1971

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Make sure original codes have been cleared from PCM and then see what comes back. Verify with a scanner that O2 sensors are switching correctly. Check fuses for O2 sensor heater circuits. You likely are not going into closed loop which should mean you are running rich. Verify misfire condition and what cylinder(s). You could have a bad coil(s).
 

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