My older kids typically use tablets, but with two little ones for a few years, I'd like to stick with DVD player. We did not go with OEM RES but I have a Rosen 10" ceiling mount player I'd like to mount. I am planning to replace the 2nd row dome light with player. The Wiring is straight forward but need to determine best place to access 12V Acc to pwer unit. Does anyone know if there's anything near this location or will I need to run pwr line over and down to side of truck? Thoughts? TIA!
where to tap constant pwr in ceiling?
- Thread starter ajs800
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toi
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i'd like to know about this as well.
iLikeEggs
Potato!
My police Tahoe SSV has provided me with several challenges, but has also opened my eyes as how to get things done. Be not afraid of the headliner.
If you want to snake wiring through the head liner, it's not that complicated. You will need something like a long and thin rod which you can tape wiring to. I have used a CB steel whip antenna. I have run power and coax to my NMO antenna mounts through the headliner, down the driver's pillar and behind the dash.
The trick to accessing the headliner is through the dome lights. The middle and rear dome lights can be completely removed with just a flat tipped medium screwdriver in less than 30 seconds.
The front dome light needs to have a couple of Torx screws removed but comes out easily enough. All dome light removal begins by removing the lens with the flat tipped screw driver, just like when you have to change the bulb except you just take it on step further and kind of pull out the whole unit. You'll see once you get in there, no big deal. Once you pull the light units aside you should be able to start snaking wire as needed.
It's tight but quite do-able. I have ham fists and Popeye arms and was able to make it work with little fuss. Well OK, I cussed a bit.
You will also need to remove the driver's front pillar to snake your wires down under the dash and to the fuse panel. This is also easily accessed. Just pry off the screw cap and use a small socket (7mm I think..). Easy peasy. Once you run your wiring you can figure out how you ant to attach your 12v socket. This shouldn't take more than an hour on a bad day.
**Although it is tempting to tap the power that feeds the dome lights, I would suggest running a separate fuse and wire to your unit. Everything on these vehicles either runs through the computer or a body control module or both. Play it safe.**
**One tip... when you run wires through the headliner, take some duct tape and tape down as much as you can. Otherwise loose wires up there WILL come to life from sympathetic vibration and drive you crazy.**
As always, your mileage will vary.
Cheers.
If you want to snake wiring through the head liner, it's not that complicated. You will need something like a long and thin rod which you can tape wiring to. I have used a CB steel whip antenna. I have run power and coax to my NMO antenna mounts through the headliner, down the driver's pillar and behind the dash.
The trick to accessing the headliner is through the dome lights. The middle and rear dome lights can be completely removed with just a flat tipped medium screwdriver in less than 30 seconds.
The front dome light needs to have a couple of Torx screws removed but comes out easily enough. All dome light removal begins by removing the lens with the flat tipped screw driver, just like when you have to change the bulb except you just take it on step further and kind of pull out the whole unit. You'll see once you get in there, no big deal. Once you pull the light units aside you should be able to start snaking wire as needed.
It's tight but quite do-able. I have ham fists and Popeye arms and was able to make it work with little fuss. Well OK, I cussed a bit.
You will also need to remove the driver's front pillar to snake your wires down under the dash and to the fuse panel. This is also easily accessed. Just pry off the screw cap and use a small socket (7mm I think..). Easy peasy. Once you run your wiring you can figure out how you ant to attach your 12v socket. This shouldn't take more than an hour on a bad day.
**Although it is tempting to tap the power that feeds the dome lights, I would suggest running a separate fuse and wire to your unit. Everything on these vehicles either runs through the computer or a body control module or both. Play it safe.**
**One tip... when you run wires through the headliner, take some duct tape and tape down as much as you can. Otherwise loose wires up there WILL come to life from sympathetic vibration and drive you crazy.**
As always, your mileage will vary.
Cheers.
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JohnC12
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Haha... great tip!!!!
Kpwweb
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Although it is tempting to tap the power that feeds the dome lights, I would suggest running a separate fuse and wire to your unit. Everything on these vehicles either runs through the computer or a body control module or both. Play it safe.**
I believe the dome lights are hot at all times--at least they were on old cars--until the timer times out.
BUT, if you tap into the dome light circuit the dome lights will be on all the time (the circuit usually switches to ground). So you would just complete the circuit with any power-drawing accessory.
There was some excellent information given in that post--run another circuit up there (wires--maybe two--one for a spare) with a fuse. You will be much happier and safer!
I believe the dome lights are hot at all times--at least they were on old cars--until the timer times out.
BUT, if you tap into the dome light circuit the dome lights will be on all the time (the circuit usually switches to ground). So you would just complete the circuit with any power-drawing accessory.
There was some excellent information given in that post--run another circuit up there (wires--maybe two--one for a spare) with a fuse. You will be much happier and safer!
iLikeEggs
Potato!
In the front dome is usually held on by two Torx screws on each side. The rear domes will just basically pull out.
iLikeEggs
Potato!
After you take the lens off you should be able to gently pull out the whole unit. work it from one end first.
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