Which alternator for 2013 Yukon Denali XL? ACDelco 145 Amp?

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Atrevino0497

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What threw me off with these Yukons, Tahoe, burbs and the Escalades is the charging system is controlled by the computer to increase efficiency. I was reading my owners manual and it said it’ll throw a service charging system if the alternator wasn’t charging the battery correctly.

My 13 Tahoe will sometimes be at 12v during a road trip and it’ll go above 13 when I have accessories on. I changed out my battery and alternator a month or so ago when I noticed flickering lights at night.

It’s hard diagnosing the alternator and or battery sometimes because they both can test good sometimes and still be bad. My battery was bad because it would only hold at charge at 12.17v after sitting all night and then my alternator was working harder for who knows how long causing it to prematurely wear
 

Doubeleive

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I’m piggy-backing on this helpful thread because the alternator in my 2001 Yukon is original. Working fine now but 22 years USA long time. My K__ RPO codes are below, KC5, KG8, KNP, K34, K47. Can I upsize my alternator? What is the best alternator to use?

My next project is remove dash cap and replace ambient light sensor, but next-next project is alternator, coils, wires and spark plugs.

View attachment 404010
You can run any 4 pin alternator you want amps are up to you, there really is no science to it you can grab any 4 pin from any gmt800, after about 2004 they went to a 2 pin
So just pick one with the amps you want
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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What threw me off with these Yukons, Tahoe, burbs and the Escalades is the charging system is controlled by the computer to increase efficiency. I was reading my owners manual and it said it’ll throw a service charging system if the alternator wasn’t charging the battery correctly.

My 13 Tahoe will sometimes be at 12v during a road trip and it’ll go above 13 when I have accessories on. I changed out my battery and alternator a month or so ago when I noticed flickering lights at night.

It’s hard diagnosing the alternator and or battery sometimes because they both can test good sometimes and still be bad. My battery was bad because it would only hold at charge at 12.17v after sitting all night and then my alternator was working harder for who knows how long causing it to prematurely wear
If the battery is good and fresh and charging system is healthy you should see 14+v pretty much all the time, if you see it moving around a lot it is a sign the battery is getting tired and the battery is not working efficiently as it was when new
 
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dictum

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To clarify, the battery is new.
I first thought it was the batt. The new one hasnt fixed it.
 
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dictum

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I have KW1 in the sticker. So 160A. What's the best source of one? Rockauto? Amazon? Ebay?
 
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Something like that I'd just pick up local. That way it's an easy exchange if it goes bad.

If you have them in your area, Advance Auto always usually has a 15-20% discount to order online and pick up in store, and when in stock at the store can usually pick it up within the hour
 

Geotrash

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I have KW1 in the sticker. So 160A. What's the best source of one? Rockauto? Amazon? Ebay?
I’m running this one in both of my Denali’s for a combined 50k so far. Perfect performance over many towing miles as well.

New 160 Amp High Output Alternator Replacement For 2007-11 Cadillac Escalade, GMC Yukon, Chevy C K Silverado 6.2L 15093928 15857608 15905871 25877026 334-2742A, ADR0369, 40012253 https://a.co/d/cqH3EMB
 

Davidj281

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I would either install a GM 13536552 220 amp alternator or a Mechman 250amp alternator. and do the Big 3 upgrade using 1/0 cable. I have a 2013 Escalade and the extra amps helps. Fans run faster, no light dims etc..
 

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