I hated removing whole dashes. Big as I am it was no fun and then when I managed other techs I felt sorry for them and helped as much as I could. I did a heater core in a Mustang in the mid 80's that I remember being the worst on ever.
Whoosh Sound From Left Front Wheel
- Thread starter merlin1128
- Start date
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I finally got around to figuring it out and fixing it.
The OBD scanner I originally had was not the best and did have ABS on it, but was very limited. My new one was not cheap, but it just paid for itself with it having endless features.
i had the code C0268 which is Pump Motor Circuit Shorted. That was the ABS Pump located under the drivers side door mounted in the frame. I put it in a test mode and it worked hearing it, but still had that code.
I know many problems can come from a bad ground wire on the frame not having a good ground being all rusty and corroded and think the Tahoe has 4 or 5 of them.
I had an intermittent problem years back with a “possessed” rear wiper just turning itself on when it was really hot out all by itself. Opening and closing the hatch glass stopped it and then it did it more frequently. Then an occasional dash light on and when going to do a scan nothing and light was off.
Then one day I had every imaginable light coming up on the dash and knew no way all that could be bad in one day. My mechanic always told me check grounds on frame where they are overlooked all the time just not having a solid, good ground. That the scanner will give a code and I know current will always take the path of least resistance. So it is basically what got it’s good ground first “won” and got it and then something else that then needs a ground it is not solid, and good in the one in the frame to give it one. Then you get a code on the scanner.
When all the lights in the dash were lighting up with no rhyme or reason I knew bad ground on the frame for sure. Yes it was the main one off the battery got so rusted it fell off and was hanging. So got my grinder and took art that rust off the frame and was a lot and had nice shiny metal. Then obviously a new connector on the ground wire and drilled and tapped a new hole for it. Then sprayed it with truck bed undercoating to seal all that up from future rust. I did clean all others and they were not bad, and this was one on this ABS Pump Motor I believe which was horrible in like 2 years.
So cleaned all that up and sprayed it with the undercoating and took off two of the three connectors in it where the third GM put towards the frame and would have to remove the ABS Pump Motor to get at it. The two connectors and terminals inside looked good, but I know oxidation you cannot see and that can cause havoc, so sprayed and cleaned with contact cleaner in both. Took some dielectric grease which I love and put on everything to keep a good connection like this and any other connectors and especially bulbs.
Was hoping it was just that and plugged back in the new OBD scanner and let it run a code search. I still had that one so cleared it and went into the ABS test mode and did a test on the ABS Pump and it “Passed” this time. Then had the OBD do a test on the entire ABS system and that “Passed” too. This always happened with this noise only one time when I first started up and pulled out of my garage and could drive for hours and it would never make this noise ever. Every time I shut it down and started it back up it made this noise every single time. I had no dash light come in for ABS come in ever which talking to my mechanic had him stumped and never got a chance to get it by him to check it out.
I read getting this code that the pump if I recall starts to operate when you hit 4 MPH after starting up the vehicle, as why it made this noise on every start up and pulling away. Also, saw price of used pump being over $200.00 with I think a 30 day warranty and never looked at new price in one knowing GM was going to be outrageous. What I read did say that with it being mounted under the frame clean connectors with that being a problem giving this code. They did look clean as can be, but the ground wires on the frame there, which are two on it looked horrible. So figured they needed to be cleaned and ground the frame shiny as above and sprayed them to seal it all up from future rust.
So not sure 100% sure if it was the grounds on the frame with getting that code and “pump motor circuit shorted” or oxidation on the two connectors I cleaned which looked clean as can be and so did inside the pump too. Like above any oxidation that is really light you will not see at all and will block contact in anything. Just like my dishwasher had it on a ribbon cable going to the control board and looked clean as can be, 100% perfect but it was on it and not making contact on that ribbon cable somewhere or in its connector. Simple cleaning with contact cleaner fixed that problem.
That is why I am not sure if bad ground or oxidation on one of those two connectors. If I did it all over again I would have cleaned grounds first and scanned it and did a test on the pump to see if it passed. Then would have cleaned the connectors and tested it all over again.
That’s all I did was clean the grounds and those two connectors and put dielectric grease on them. I am in a cold weather State and cold now, but next Spring it is going up on jack stands. Getting out the grinder with an an aggressive sanding disc on it, safety glasses and a mask, my huge fan to blow where I am going to get as much rust off the frame. Then spray it all down with truck bed liner and seal it all up along with cleaning all grounds sealing them up too. Then any connector from anything I can find is getting cleaned with contact cleaner and getting dielectric grease on them.
i know it is 15 years old, but just turned 100k on miles which are mostly highway and really took care of it from day 1. All synthetic fluids and maintaining it 100%.
Body is mint with a few dings I just primed and will take care of in the Spring. Inside is mint too except a bunch of bulbs in controls burnt out and getting all LED this winter and pulling the controls and soldering in all new on everything going all LED. If you do that get blue because most controls are shaded inside blue already by GM inside and white would actually look blue anyways. Then with LED in them their is a positive and a negative on them and you have to solder them in correctly with just taking a guess is a 50/50 you are right. The bulbs do have a “L” shape on one side which indicates that is the positive of the bulb you clip off. So you need a meter and a paint marker once you get control apart and need to power it up and mark your “positive” side where regular bulbs make zero difference which way they are put in, but LED does. So mark your positive terminal if you go all LED replacing burnt out bulbs and do them all which looks awesome. It is brighter and less heat of course with LED.
So that was the problem and the fix to this weird noise with no ABS light ever coming on and a good OBD scanner. Where even doing a test on the pump letting my new OBD activate it and run it the sound of the pump was the same getting a failed and then a passed showing after cleaning all that up.
Now no codes but an air bag one which is from my dog when driving going on the front seat and then to the rear. She keeps turning on and off the sensor in the seat with her being around 35 pounds when driving. Where it thinks the seat sensor failed but I know it is good and just my dog doing it and it thinks with it going in and off driving it failed.
Figured I would post the problem and how I fixed it with simple cleaning and no parts needed.
The OBD scanner I originally had was not the best and did have ABS on it, but was very limited. My new one was not cheap, but it just paid for itself with it having endless features.
i had the code C0268 which is Pump Motor Circuit Shorted. That was the ABS Pump located under the drivers side door mounted in the frame. I put it in a test mode and it worked hearing it, but still had that code.
I know many problems can come from a bad ground wire on the frame not having a good ground being all rusty and corroded and think the Tahoe has 4 or 5 of them.
I had an intermittent problem years back with a “possessed” rear wiper just turning itself on when it was really hot out all by itself. Opening and closing the hatch glass stopped it and then it did it more frequently. Then an occasional dash light on and when going to do a scan nothing and light was off.
Then one day I had every imaginable light coming up on the dash and knew no way all that could be bad in one day. My mechanic always told me check grounds on frame where they are overlooked all the time just not having a solid, good ground. That the scanner will give a code and I know current will always take the path of least resistance. So it is basically what got it’s good ground first “won” and got it and then something else that then needs a ground it is not solid, and good in the one in the frame to give it one. Then you get a code on the scanner.
When all the lights in the dash were lighting up with no rhyme or reason I knew bad ground on the frame for sure. Yes it was the main one off the battery got so rusted it fell off and was hanging. So got my grinder and took art that rust off the frame and was a lot and had nice shiny metal. Then obviously a new connector on the ground wire and drilled and tapped a new hole for it. Then sprayed it with truck bed undercoating to seal all that up from future rust. I did clean all others and they were not bad, and this was one on this ABS Pump Motor I believe which was horrible in like 2 years.
So cleaned all that up and sprayed it with the undercoating and took off two of the three connectors in it where the third GM put towards the frame and would have to remove the ABS Pump Motor to get at it. The two connectors and terminals inside looked good, but I know oxidation you cannot see and that can cause havoc, so sprayed and cleaned with contact cleaner in both. Took some dielectric grease which I love and put on everything to keep a good connection like this and any other connectors and especially bulbs.
Was hoping it was just that and plugged back in the new OBD scanner and let it run a code search. I still had that one so cleared it and went into the ABS test mode and did a test on the ABS Pump and it “Passed” this time. Then had the OBD do a test on the entire ABS system and that “Passed” too. This always happened with this noise only one time when I first started up and pulled out of my garage and could drive for hours and it would never make this noise ever. Every time I shut it down and started it back up it made this noise every single time. I had no dash light come in for ABS come in ever which talking to my mechanic had him stumped and never got a chance to get it by him to check it out.
I read getting this code that the pump if I recall starts to operate when you hit 4 MPH after starting up the vehicle, as why it made this noise on every start up and pulling away. Also, saw price of used pump being over $200.00 with I think a 30 day warranty and never looked at new price in one knowing GM was going to be outrageous. What I read did say that with it being mounted under the frame clean connectors with that being a problem giving this code. They did look clean as can be, but the ground wires on the frame there, which are two on it looked horrible. So figured they needed to be cleaned and ground the frame shiny as above and sprayed them to seal it all up from future rust.
So not sure 100% sure if it was the grounds on the frame with getting that code and “pump motor circuit shorted” or oxidation on the two connectors I cleaned which looked clean as can be and so did inside the pump too. Like above any oxidation that is really light you will not see at all and will block contact in anything. Just like my dishwasher had it on a ribbon cable going to the control board and looked clean as can be, 100% perfect but it was on it and not making contact on that ribbon cable somewhere or in its connector. Simple cleaning with contact cleaner fixed that problem.
That is why I am not sure if bad ground or oxidation on one of those two connectors. If I did it all over again I would have cleaned grounds first and scanned it and did a test on the pump to see if it passed. Then would have cleaned the connectors and tested it all over again.
That’s all I did was clean the grounds and those two connectors and put dielectric grease on them. I am in a cold weather State and cold now, but next Spring it is going up on jack stands. Getting out the grinder with an an aggressive sanding disc on it, safety glasses and a mask, my huge fan to blow where I am going to get as much rust off the frame. Then spray it all down with truck bed liner and seal it all up along with cleaning all grounds sealing them up too. Then any connector from anything I can find is getting cleaned with contact cleaner and getting dielectric grease on them.
i know it is 15 years old, but just turned 100k on miles which are mostly highway and really took care of it from day 1. All synthetic fluids and maintaining it 100%.
Body is mint with a few dings I just primed and will take care of in the Spring. Inside is mint too except a bunch of bulbs in controls burnt out and getting all LED this winter and pulling the controls and soldering in all new on everything going all LED. If you do that get blue because most controls are shaded inside blue already by GM inside and white would actually look blue anyways. Then with LED in them their is a positive and a negative on them and you have to solder them in correctly with just taking a guess is a 50/50 you are right. The bulbs do have a “L” shape on one side which indicates that is the positive of the bulb you clip off. So you need a meter and a paint marker once you get control apart and need to power it up and mark your “positive” side where regular bulbs make zero difference which way they are put in, but LED does. So mark your positive terminal if you go all LED replacing burnt out bulbs and do them all which looks awesome. It is brighter and less heat of course with LED.
So that was the problem and the fix to this weird noise with no ABS light ever coming on and a good OBD scanner. Where even doing a test on the pump letting my new OBD activate it and run it the sound of the pump was the same getting a failed and then a passed showing after cleaning all that up.
Now no codes but an air bag one which is from my dog when driving going on the front seat and then to the rear. She keeps turning on and off the sensor in the seat with her being around 35 pounds when driving. Where it thinks the seat sensor failed but I know it is good and just my dog doing it and it thinks with it going in and off driving it failed.
Figured I would post the problem and how I fixed it with simple cleaning and no parts needed.
