Window Switch Weirdness

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hogman23

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Guys,

I need some help. All of a sudden a few weeks ago my driver window stopped working. Naturally, I thought it was the motor and replaced it, only to be disappointed that it still didn't work. So, I figured out it was the switch cluster in the drivers side door. So I ordered a new one and put it in. Here is where the weirdness comes in....now the drivers window rolls down, but none of the other three work, nor do the locks or anything else. What the heck?
 

swathdiver

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Guys,

I need some help. All of a sudden a few weeks ago my driver window stopped working. Naturally, I thought it was the motor and replaced it, only to be disappointed that it still didn't work. So, I figured out it was the switch cluster in the drivers side door. So I ordered a new one and put it in. Here is where the weirdness comes in....now the drivers window rolls down, but none of the other three work, nor do the locks or anything else. What the heck?

If you replaced the entire cluster, it needs to be programmed. Use only GM OE switches, not Dorman or whatever. There's a guy on ebay selling the factory switches from the same factory in Mexico that makes them for GM and they of course work just fine.

So who do you know with a Tech-2? Are you the original owner?
 

ivin74

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Yes, it is a Bosch OEM just like what was in it originally.

Did the switch you took off work at all?
Test the wires for current, I might be wrong but for every window switch should have one wire to power it up and one wire power it down. You should have power going in all the times to the main board and when the switch is trigger, power should be sent to the power down wire or power up wire. If no power is going in either direction you have a bad switch/module within the switch.
 

ivin74

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If you replaced the entire cluster, it needs to be programmed. Use only GM OE switches, not Dorman or whatever. There's a guy on ebay selling the factory switches from the same factory in Mexico that makes them for GM and they of course work just fine.

So who do you know with a Tech-2? Are you the original owner?


I replace the drivers switch on my suv and did not have to program it all all. It was p&p, it maybe that mine is an NBS.
 
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hogman23

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Did the switch you took off work at all?
Test the wires for current, I might be wrong but for every window switch should have one wire to power it up and one wire power it down. You should have power going in all the times to the main board and when the switch is trigger, power should be sent to the power down wire or power up wire. If no power is going in either direction you have a bad switch/module within the switch.


If I switch back to the old switch, all of the windows work except the drivers side, so it can't be a power issue.
 

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