Wiring harness help

[bsamoul]

I'm going to tackle it again in an hour and try to locate that brown wire on top of the transfer case. I need to pull the actuator off again though because I didn't put that spacer in.

 

[bsamoul]

put it in...hear the actuator this time but the light still blinks

 

[magnahoe]

put it in...hear the actuator this time but the light still blinks

You got more then me, my light comes on but now power to the front diff ( tires didn't spin in snow) The white plug next to the actuator sends the signal back to the cab make sure it is connected also could be the switch in the cab.

I'm willing to bet mine is the t case switch.

 

[loulblades]

When I did mine, my GM mechanic nephew faxed me a wiring diagram. I could barely read it so since there isn't a lot to it I drew it in Turbocad and saved it in JPG.

Seems several people are having issues with it so here is a copy.

 

[bsamoul]

You got more then me, my light comes on but now power to the front diff ( tires didn't spin in snow) The white plug next to the actuator sends the signal back to the cab make sure it is connected also could be the switch in the cab.

I'm willing to bet mine is the t case switch.

I replaced my switch last year in 08 and 4wd hasn't worked since then either, so I'm pretty sure my switch is fine.

When I hit the 4hi button, I do hear the actuator moving, so I know that has to work. I just don't actually engage 4 wheel drive because the light continues to blink..

SO that being said, what's left to test? The TCCM and the encoder motor right? From my understanding the TCCM is the little silver thing under the dash, and that does make a click when I hit the button, but I'm not sure if it's working correctly? Then there's the encoder motor, which I've heard is like $500 to replace, so I'm not sure if that would be a really good use of my money considering the truck is turning 14 this year.

loulblades or anyone else, do you have any input/suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[loulblades]

I don't know if you used the diagnostics that I posted on an unmentioned other site (I would post it here but there is not enough room given for attachments).

If the actuator is engaging, that's an indication that the encoder is operating but may not be landing in the correct position. The encoder motor engaging turns on the transfer case switch which applies power to the front actuator.

Can you determine if there is power to the front wheels when the 4WD is engaged?

The blinking light is basically an indicator that the TCCM has not received feedback that the 4WD has properly engaged. This would happen if it didn't receive a signal from the encoder motor that it is in the correct position or the actuator is not sending engaged (black/white wire that you spliced in).

So to summarize,
1. encoder motor is not moving to the correct position (it is moving if the actuator is operating).
2. the encoder motor is not sending the feedback that it is in the right position (wiring from the encoder motor or the encoder output)
3. the actuator is not sending feedback that it engaged
4. the TCCM (the silver box on steering column) is acting up (I did replace mine at one time).

If you can verify that you actually have 4WD then you can most likely drop 1.

 

[bsamoul]

I don't know if you used the diagnostics that I posted on an unmentioned other site (I would post it here but there is not enough room given for attachments).

If the actuator is engaging, that's an indication that the encoder is operating but may not be landing in the correct position. The encoder motor engaging turns on the transfer case switch which applies power to the front actuator.

Can you determine if there is power to the front wheels when the 4WD is engaged?

The blinking light is basically an indicator that the TCCM has not received feedback that the 4WD has properly engaged. This would happen if it didn't receive a signal from the encoder motor that it is in the correct position or the actuator is not sending engaged (black/white wire that you spliced in).

So to summarize,
1. encoder motor is not moving to the correct position (it is moving if the actuator is operating).
2. the encoder motor is not sending the feedback that it is in the right position (wiring from the encoder motor or the encoder output)
3. the actuator is not sending feedback that it engaged
4. the TCCM (the silver box on steering column) is acting up (I did replace mine at one time).

If you can verify that you actually have 4WD then you can most likely drop 1.

I did take a paperclip and put them on pin 13 and the other one on the ground pin (forget which one) and nothing happened, so I figured there were not diagnostic codes in there.

 

[magnahoe]

I replaced my switch last year in 08 and 4wd hasn't worked since then either, so I'm pretty sure my switch is fine.

When I hit the 4hi button, I do hear the actuator moving, so I know that has to work. I just don't actually engage 4 wheel drive because the light continues to blink..

SO that being said, what's left to test? The TCCM and the encoder motor right? From my understanding the TCCM is the little silver thing under the dash, and that does make a click when I hit the button, but I'm not sure if it's working correctly? Then there's the encoder motor, which I've heard is like $500 to replace, so I'm not sure if that would be a really good use of my money considering the truck is turning 14 this year.

loulblades or anyone else, do you have any input/suggestions?

Thanks!

The cheapest I have seen the motor is $220 but Chinese parts. If I were you i would get my money back from amazon and put in posi-lok. It just replaces the electrical actuator with mechanical linkage. Maybe try the TCCM but I wouldn't bother with the encoder motor. Does the front drive shaft spin when 4x4 in engaged?

Link to posi-Lok you can get it on ebay for like $200 http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_chevy-k.html

Probably doing the switch Friday is it hard to do?

 

[loulblades]

Link to posi-Lok you can get it on ebay for like $200 http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_chevy-k.html

From what I can see, this won't help if the transfer case isn't engaging.

Probably doing the switch Friday is it hard to do?

Replacing the switch is probably the easiest part of this thing.
Pop old switch out of the dash.
Unplug old switch
Plugin new switch
Pop switch back in dash

---------- Post added at 03:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 PM ----------

I did take a paperclip and put them on pin 13 and the other one on the ground pin (forget which one) and nothing happened, so I figured there were not diagnostic codes in there.

Just to affirm, the ignition was off, the pins were shorted then the key was turned to Run?

 

[bsamoul]

Yes, the ignition was off and I jumped them and put the key to run. Do I have to stick it further in? I just had it to where it stopped without having to push to go in the slot. Do I need to push it in?