Wiring harness help

[loulblades]

Yes, the ignition was off and I jumped them and put the key to run. Do I have to stick it further in? I just had it to where it stopped without having to push to go in the slot. Do I need to push it in?

Just so both ends come in contact with the metal pins in the connector housing.

 

[magnahoe]

From what I can see, this won't help if the transfer case isn't engaging.



Replacing the switch is probably the easiest part of this thing.
Pop old switch out of the dash.
Unplug old switch
Plugin new switch
Pop switch back in dash

---------- Post added at 03:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 PM ----------




Just to affirm, the ignition was off, the pins were shorted then the key was turned to Run?

didn't know the t case didn't have power

What do you thinks wrong with mine, I have power to the t case but actuator doesn't engage. It didn't work after the new harness and actuator was put in. You think its the t case switch or tccm?

You want to pm me the link your post on the site we don't talk about on here.

 

[bsamoul]

http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=15162

 

[magnahoe]

I think I found my problem didn't splice and connect the second connection. Do I connect the short wire running from the diff to the new harness or the wire running from the t case to the new harness?

 

[bsamoul]

I think I found my problem didn't splice and connect the second connection. Do I connect the short wire running from the diff to the new harness or the wire running from the t case to the new harness?

What second splice? The old actuator cord goes to the new one, and the brown wire gets connected to IGN?

 

[magnahoe]

What second splice? The old actuator cord goes to the new one, and the brown wire gets connected to IGN?[/QUOT

Never mind I had a different original connection so I figured out I cut the wrong wires oh well thats what they make but connectors for. i have to strip the old actuator wires because the connections are different.

 

[loulblades]

Yes the new harness has a 2 pin connector that plugs into the connector that went to the old actuator.

When done there will be 2 wires with a connector on the end coming from the front diff (the prox sensor) that goes nowhere (unless you cut it off).

 

[magnahoe]

I connected everything right. I still don't have power to the front diff. The lights blink unless I plug in the prox sensor to the old harness.

 

[loulblades]

So I am making some assumptions:

1. You didn't cut the connector off that plugged into the connector that went to the diff sensor.

2. You spiced the black/white wire behind that old connector.

If you are saying that the light goes off when you plug in the sensor that would be an indicator that the feedback circuit wiring to the TCCM is ok.

If you have a meter or light and can monitor the voltage on the black/white wire it should change between 0 and 12 volts when the system is engaged/disengaged. If it doesn't, that would indicate the actuator is not sending it's feedback that it is engaged. If it does change voltage, that would indicate your splice is bad.

In reality though, using the prox sensor instead of the actuator output wouldn't be a bad thing. It was the actuator that was the weak link in that system.

 

[magnahoe]

So I am making some assumptions:

1. You didn't cut the connector off that plugged into the connector that went to the diff sensor.

2. You spiced the black/white wire behind that old connector.

If you are saying that the light goes off when you plug in the sensor that would be an indicator that the feedback circuit wiring to the TCCM is ok.

If you have a meter or light and can monitor the voltage on the black/white wire it should change between 0 and 12 volts when the system is engaged/disengaged. If it doesn't, that would indicate the actuator is not sending it's feedback that it is engaged. If it does change voltage, that would indicate your splice is bad.

In reality though, using the prox sensor instead of the actuator output wouldn't be a bad thing. It was the actuator that was the weak link in that system.

What I did was use crimp connectors and connected the old connector from the old actuator to the new harness. ( cut off the one that came with the harness and used the actuator harness so it would plug in) what your saying is that I should be able to leave the prox sensor unglued and the system should work? I'm thinking its one of three things, my connection, bad actuator, or the guy screwed up wiring it. I'm going to grab a test light tomorrow and see if the actuator is getting power to it, I should be able to narrow the problem down.

After I figure the 4x4 out on to the manifold gasket, that tick pisses me off so much.