Secureolive
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2022
- Posts
- 10
- Reaction score
- 4
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I'm asking would my battery read good volts even if the truck had a battery drain from something like the blower? Like would the heater/resistor drain the battery completely dead?not sure what you mean, with the engine running you won't be to do the test, everything must be off
depends on how bad the drain is, if it is a slow drain the battery might be fine for 2-3 days or longer and then become dead presuming the vehicle was not driven, or it could be a heavy drain and leave you stranded by the next morning.I'm asking would my battery read good volts even if the truck had a battery drain from something like the blower? Like would the heater/resistor drain the battery completely dead?
Ok. I will test. Thank you.depends on how bad the drain is, if it is a slow drain the battery might be fine for 2-3 days or longer and then become dead presuming the vehicle was not driven, or it could a heavy drain and leave you stranded by the next morning.
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I have not. Only cause it started w the jump. Could that be the culprit?
With all the ignition components you changed already, distributor cap and rotor are cheap insurance. These are notorious for corrosion and wearing out. As far as battery drain I always look first at aftermarket add ons such as alarm systems, etc. Another red flag is, why a starter bypass installed? Is there a fault in the circuit to the solenoid? I had a battery drain in the summer, that ended being a stuck engine oil pressure switch, that would run the fuel pump with the key off. You said in your post “Newer Battery”. How Newer? LolI
I have not. Only cause it started w the jump. Could that be the culprit?
Thank you for your response. I got a direct drive starter. DD was oe so that's why I got that over the pgmr.i didnt see it mentioned so ill mention it. you also said you replaced the starter, what starter did you purchase? on my 97 tahoe i used to have i went through 3 starters with a similar issue. i finally upgraded to a pmgr starter and problem completely went away. only difference im reading is yours definitely seems more of a drain issue as the way im reading it generally only happens after its sat for a while. mine would do it at any given time but definitely more noticeable if i was doing alot of driving.
With all the ignition components you changed already, distributor cap and rotor are cheap insurance. These are notorious for corrosion and wearing out. As far as battery drain I always look first at aftermarket add ons such as alarm systems, etc. Another red flag is, why a starter bypass installed? Is there a fault in the circuit to the solenoid? I had a battery drain in the summer, that ended being a stuck engine oil pressure switch, that would run the fuel pump with the key off. You said in your post “Newer Battery”. How Newer? Lol
Thank ypu for your help!!I will also try the cap and rotor. I have no idea why the bypass was installed. It makes no sense really because it started fine, at the steering column, without turning the key on the bypass, mounted at the bottom of the dash. When I was following wires and checking connections, everything thing looked good, I put my volt meter to them and again good. I have a stereo system but have not turned it on in weeks because of the issue. Could it still drain the battery? The battery I had in it was from 2015, bwaha! The one I put in it was from 2018, still laughable. The little acessory battery I had on the drivers side (I say little because it is and 650 cca from 2018) and its starting it now (will update post). Started up, drove to get gas, didn't start at the gas station, I jump it, it starts, I get home, I turn it off, wait maybe 10 seconds...started right up.