Anyone used the Eibach 2" lowering springs in a GMT900?

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That Guy
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Yeah no shackles or keys, front coilover and rear coils only.
Pedders, Belltech and Mcgaughys have moe bang for the buck becuase they're lower than the Eibach 2/2 drop.
 

KMeloney

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Hey folks,

Sorry to threadjack (although it sounds like the OP is looking to do the same thing), but is there a kit/something out there that allows you to lower ONLY the rear, and only 1"?

I don't think I'm interested in touching the front, and I don't want to slam the rear. I'd simply like a more-level look.

Thanks,

/< / /2 /<
 
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oakster

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I think there is a 3/2 drop kit that levels out the rear but still drops the front one inch
 

blueflamed03

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Thanks for the support.

I have installed in the past all the drop assemblies. The issues that I had with the Eibachs is serious inconsistancies with the heights, harsh ride, and front alignment angles too aggressive for good tire wear.


Having a Denali, you have auto ride. Make sure you modify the sensors to compensate for the height changes

mike
dms
x2, used Eibach on mine, front is fine, rear didn't drop the 3" it said it would, so it still has too much rake for me...:emotions122:
 
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oakster

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I got my springs on Friday night and did the install on Saturday afternoon.

Things went pretty smooth. I don't see a big difference in the way my Yukon rides and now it fits in my parking garage @ work.

I saw a 2 inch drop front and rear.

No rubbing anywhere and I was very careful w/the ABS sensors when I changed the rear springs. If you don't inclip them from the frame, it looks like you could easily break them.

I have the self leveling system so I had to change the rods too but that only took a couple of minutes to do.
 

steven johnson

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Has any one used ground force drop kit? Are you guys putting a drop kit on 2wheel, or 4x4 . what kind of ride will you have after its drop ? Any information will be helpful
 

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The Ground FOrce kit is way too expensive, and in a way a rip off. Go Belltech, McGAughys or Pedders.
Also Oakster how hard was the install? I am doing the same this weekend and just wanted to know? ALso how long did it take and what tools did you use?
Thanks!
 
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oakster

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It wasn't that hard. Took me about three hours and although I used to be a mechanic but I wasn't rushing.

I used jack stands, a hydraulic jack, metric sockets, a spring compressor, an air gun, and some patience.

I have air tools which made it easier. If you've never done this be careful, the springs can seriously hurt or kill you if you don't properly compress them when taking the struts apart. Plus always use jack stands when working on your truck.

I'm putting a disclaimer on my directions that they may not be complete and are for illustration purposes only. You shouldn't attempt this unless you know what you're doing b/c working on your truck's suspension can be dangerous and can even result in death.

The rears are a piece of cake. Just do one side at a time.
1 - Jack the rear up and support the frame w/jackstands and your jack under the side of the rear end you are working on.
2 - Remove the tires and then take off the lower shock bolt and sway bar link.
3 - If you have auto leveling, remove the rod from the sensor (it is toward the front of the rear lower control arm.
4 - I also unclipped the ABS sensor wires from their mounting points (when the axle gets lowered, you can stress the wires and break them if you don't do this).
5 - Lower the axle on one side slowly until you can pull out the spring. You need to reuse the insulators that are on your original spring for the new ones.
6 - Put in your new spring and then jack the rear end up until you can reconnect the shock and sway bar link. Don't completely tighten the bolts.
7 - If you have auto leveling, replace the rod w/the one that comes in the kit. You need to swap the ends off the factory rod.
8 - Cut down the bump stop so it is 65mm long. You can just pull it out of the hole to make trimming it easier.
9 - Put on the wheels and do the other side.
10 - Get the car off the stands and on the ground
11 - tighten up the shock and sway bar bolts.

The fronts are a little more involved.
1 - Jack the car up
2 - Remove the clip on the top of the strut
3 - Remove the height sensor rod if equiped w/auto leveling
4 - Remove the two lower strut bolts (15mm)
5 - Remove the three upper strut nuts and take the strut out of the car.
6 - Use a spring compressor to compress the spring in the strut until there is no tension on it
7 - Mark the orientation of everything so you know which way the top of the strut goes and the insulator.
8 - Take off the nut at the top of the strut keeping track of the order all the pieces go in. You need an extra deep socket for this nut. I read that you need to be careful not to rotate the rod in the strut or you can ruin it.
9 - Put the new spring in and then use the spring compressor to compress it until everything can fit back on. You get a new insulator in the kit to replace the factory one.
10 - Tighten up the nut and remove the spring compressor.
11 - Put the strut back in your truck
12 - Replace the rods with new ones if you have auto leveling.
13 - Get an alignment and you're good to go.

Good luck w/your swap. It isn't a hard project to tackle on your own

---------- Post added at 02:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 PM ----------

Do a quick search on google for "tahoe eibach install" and a thread from another site comes up w/some excellent pictures.

I wanted to take pics for a how to but couldn't find my digital camera:emotions122:
 
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