2011 Escalade - worth repairing?

Pretty sure 2011 Escalade definitely has AFM. The quotes on the manifold bolts seems way inflated. I know some shops speculate that the manifolds are warped causing the bolt problems so sometimes they include new manifolds in the quote. ARP has bolt/stud kits that last forever for around $100. Many of us on this fourm are driving around with busted bolts so if yours aren't leaking bad that can be something that can wait. In the near future they will probably be dealing with coolant leaks, evap issues, door lock actuator failures and air suspension problems. All normal issues. As far as fluid changes just follow manufacturers recommendations. Being in Alaska I'm sure makes everything a little more difficult. I can see why a rear wiper would be helpful.

Multidriver said:

Any recommendations on service intervals for the transmission and differentials? Just change the transmission fluid? Or flush?

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I do every 50k for trans and axles.

More for the torque converter than the trans. Usually the failure mode is the TC, which then sends shrapnel into the trans.
I do full fluid replacement on the trans - where they tap into it and run fluid through until clean. You end up paying for like 20 quarts.

Rear axle is a bit of a PITA because it doesn't have a drain plug - you have to pop off the cover.

1800$ to replace exhaust bolts that have backed out? that's fairly crazy to me.

now if they broke off in the head maybe and if that's the case just buy the 50$ clamp thst bolts on over it. no need to fix the bolts really. unless he feels like putting stronger aftermarket ones in it.


if this is the stock tranny. isn't this thing about over due for a converter to go out?

my honest opinion is he needs to buy a beater car to have around so he can fix stuff as it breaks. having no back up vehicle with a family is always a risk. even with brand new stuff, unless the dealer has a loaner for you, you're out of luck. see it pretty often on the boards. especially these brand new LT engine trucks, I believe gm is about to lose a big class action over them. then he can take his time being a decent mechanic and fix stuff as it breaks. at the very least he needs to disable and block off that afm as soon as possible.

I never feel comfortable unless there's at least one extra vehicle around the house I can trust the wife to jump in and get where she needs to be.

I like the idea of a back up car too. Something that gets 30 mpg and somewhat reliable. See Malibu, Cruze, Fusion, lesser Japanese makes in decent shape under 100k miles for $5k or less. Much less sometimes. Won't impress anyone but does the job.

Awesome vehicle for way up North. Separate front & rear heat, 4 heated seats. Start an annual underbody rust prevention treatment asap.

I’d have all the work done in WA to prep it for winter. I didn’t realize you were paying the going rate for AK.

If it is just loose exhaust manifold bolts, I just tightened all of mine on my 2003 Chevy Tahoe for about 2 hours of work. The first half hour was for seven of them and the rest was trying to get the driver side rear bolt tightened due to restricted space. I'm glad I noticed they were loose since it could allow exhaust gases to enter the cabin. The prices you're quoting are unbelievable.

houstontaylor said:

If it is just loose exhaust manifold bolts, I just tightened all of mine on my 2003 Chevy Tahoe for about 2 hours of work. The first half hour was for seven of them and the rest was trying to get the driver side rear bolt tightened due to restricted space. I'm glad I noticed they were loose since it could allow exhaust gases to enter the cabin. The prices you're quoting are unbelievable.

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just as a heads up, the stock bolts are common to snap off and became a hassle. if you find them lose, it's a good time to replace them with something a little stronger than stock.

j91z28d1 said:

just as a heads up, the stock bolts are common to snap off and became a hassle. if you find them lose, it's a good time to replace them with something a little stronger than stock.

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Yup. But they're easy to replace if you remove the fender liners and use one of these to drill out and remove any stragglers: https://a.co/d/gamZKKe

You can tell the AK mechanic that offered the $1.8k bid to replace the exh mani bolts had dealt with it on another AK vehicle in the past.

The real Winters in the far North will cycle & snap the OEM exh mani studs in a few seasons. ARP studs are a must. Order them asap to have on hand. Might have to look them up off a 2011 Yukon Denali (same 6.2L motor) to get the part number.

Time is money for the mechanics. They’ve got to be ensured they don’t underbid a job they can predict until it’s apart. Pulling a steel stud from Alum block is a pita. Pulling more than one is a bĩtch.

Why not get it on the ferry to Seattle and find a clean version of what they have
Trade the rusty old girl off and drive a clean, lower mileage version to NC. Negotiate some sort of 90 day warranty into the equation to cover the trip across the good old USA.......Viola! Problems solved(?)